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Quote:

Originally Posted by rogerkiu (Post 861700)

In the fact, you do not need a battery charger when using SSS. Just start the engine when starting SSS, most of modules can be coded or programed when the engine is running (battery voltage over 14v). When coding/programing DME, EGS (facelift) and VTG (facelift), you need to start the engine when SSS checking battery voltage, and swith off the engine and turn to position 2 after SSS checking battery voltage, SSS can complete the whole coding/programing without any problem. However, make sure your battery voltage is over 11v during the coding/programing, if your battery's condition is ok, it should keep at 11v or above. I just updated software of my DME, EGS, VTG and DSC by using this method without any problem.

You mean I can code Car/Key memory with SSS while engine is running?

Also can I reset transmission adaptation with SSS while engine is running?

Can someone explain something to me. How are you guys updating software in the car? Is this possible with DIS? Do you download software to the PC first? I didn't think this was doable without going to the dealer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by test123123 (Post 861736)

You mean I can code Car/Key memory with SSS while engine is running?

Also can I reset transmission adaptation with SSS while engine is running?

Yes, you can set car and key memory with sss while enging is running, no problem at all. If you want to save gas, you can shut down the engine and turn the key to position 2 after SSS checking battery voltage.

You need to start the engine when the SSS prompt you that the voltage is too low, then shut down the engine and turn the key to position 2 when you see the SSS keeps to restart coding/programming without success when the engine is running. For encoding/programming DME, EGS and VTG, you have to shut down the engine and turn the key ot position 2 immediately when SSS starting to program/code the module, otherwise SSS will keep restart programming/coding without success. For other modules, you can keep the egine running during coding/programming without problem, but you will waste lots of gas. To save gas, just do what I said above for coding/programming DEM...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1 (Post 861759)

I don't remember if you can use DIS to reset transmission adaptation, but SSS sure can do it. You may try to go into 'service function' of EGS or VTG to see if there is option to reset adaptation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rogerkiu (Post 861905)

I don't remember if you can use DIS to reset transmission adaptation, but SSS sure can do it. You may try to go into 'service function' of EGS or VTG to see if there is option to reset adaptation.

Thanks, I will look for this when I can get the damn GT1 to connect to my car again. See next post.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1 (Post 860808)

Success.

GT1 turned on nothing pressed on screen.
Connect gt1 to car via the OBD connector.
Put car key in, not in any position, just the hole, don't turn.
Click Diagnosis in DIS
Screen goes blank and takes about a min
Message pops up that the there is a low voltage problem.
Turn key to position 2 (ignition), pop up box goes away by itself in about 20 seconds.
Message pops up saying that the car has been AUTO-DETECTED.
Click OK.

DIS FULLY FUNCTIONAL NOW. Thank you all. I'll keep you all posted if there are any other issues.

Ok so I was doing the trans drain and fill again. When I went to connect the GT1, it again would not connect for shit. 3 hours of messing around with it before I could do anything.

So here is what I came up with so far. I though the ODB2 port on the car was messed up. I decided to take that panel off, and pull the ODB plug out of the dash. Wires all look connected and in good order. Then all of a sudden, I see a resistor in the ODB port cover. It has 3 pins that connect to the ODB port when closed.

Anyone have any idea what that resistor is supposed to do?

Reason why I ask, is because I forgot to close that cover after last connecting the GT1. After 3 hours of messing around with the GT1, I closed that port. When I went to connect the GT1 after, I got a low voltage error, at this point, I started up the car, and the GT1 connected fine.

Is it possible that the resistor activates something in the port? So damn strange.

Going to try it again tonight. I actually killed my battery yesterday and don't want to run the car in the garage. So a friends booster is going to assist me today. I will let you guys know.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlickGT1 (Post 861970)

You are really good on hand. If me I do not what to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by test123123 (Post 862032)

You are really good on hand. If me I do not what to do.

Um, I don't understand.

Got the GT1 connected again. Turned out my ODB2 plug on the car is the problem. If I push in harder, seems like it connects no problem. It just seems loose otherwise.

hi, this is my first post because I'm new here I hope to learn and teach at the same time, as do I have a problem with my picture virtual SSS V30, I would use it with my DK yellow head , j uses it vmware image already DIS 57 bridge that works well in networks with ip
192.168.68.1
255.255.255.0
192.168.68.1
I want to know how to add and use my DK yellow head with the SSS vmware.
Best regards

Back on pg 9, there was a great write-up on using the Gt1 to lower the default ride height. I'm wondering if there is a way to, rather than resetting the default, just eliminate the speed-trigger to raise the vehicle to nominal (middle) setting? As in, is there a way to set to the lowest setting and have it stay there above 20mph rather than automatically raising around that speed?

Thanks!