Anyone with a GT1 in Southern California? I have a X5 that needs some gt1 love =). Im in the Burbank area.

Let me know. Thanks guys!

Anyone with GT1 in the Chicago area that can lower the air suspension on my 01 X5 3.0? I'm willing to pay...

Do I need battery charger just to code car memory like auto lock doors after car moves etc.?

Do I need to start my engine or just put key in position 2 when programming?

See above.

Never start your car, only keep it at position 2 without it tells you otherwise.

Good point on SSS. To clarify, I still use DIS v43 and I don't use SSS.

I have set those simple things in Car Memory like Central Locking with no problems not using my charger. If voltage is low, then the system may not allow you to proceed during coding/programming. Obviously, in these cases you need the charger/PS mode.

For diagnosis, if my voltage is low, I sometimes experience DIS recognizng the vehicle model when starting Diagnosis. If that happens, I run the engine. I have not experienced any problems with this method.

If you're going to do some serious coding/programming, then definitely get a charger with PS mode.

This is getting very interesting. Thanks all for input regarding coding/charging things.

Now I have more questions.... I have 2004 X5 diesel.

* If I purchase a battery charger. Is it 12 V and any amp? Any brands ?

* If I connect a battery charger to my battery. Is it OK to put the key to position 2 (ignition ON) for coding while I am charging the battery?

* I have purchased a cable from ebay (BMW USB OBD Cable lead Ediabas Inpa GT1 DIS SSS Progman | eBay). Is this allowed me to code? Any worries regarding cheap cable? I have not tried it out yet :)

Ok guys I need help. Something is up with my car / gt1 (twins). So first off, I used the gt1 last week when doing the trans pan drop. Everything went great. I decided to use it yesterday to see if any of the previous codes came back. Now nothing changed in the car or laptop.

So I connect it yesterday and get some weird shit. Before, the car would get recognized automatically. I didn't have to do anything. This is the message I get.

IDENT_E53 / Message 1a
No data could be determined from the vehicle. automatic vehicle identification cannot proceed.

This may be due to the following causes.
-Unknown model variant
-Diagnosis bus faulty
-EWS defective
-EWS replaced and not encoded

Continue with manual identification.

So I go to manual identification, run a quick test, and nothing comes up. I tried restarting it all.

Computer, the connection bars light up. The yellow head, green light and solid yellow light. Everything seems fine with pc. Only thing I can thing off is that some setting got reset as the computer laid unplugged for a week? I don't know that sounds stupid, but are there settings that I should check?

Back to the message I get.
-Unknown model variant, ok I get it, it can't detect car. It doesn't even want to connect.

-diagnosis bus faulty. WTF, the obi port? How is that even possible.

-EWS defective. What is this? Is this the security of the car? Everything seems to work fine. Lock unlock, start drive al the good stuff.

-EWS replaced and not encoded? WTFx2? I didn't replace anything.

So I also get a temporary disturbance in bus line message while trying to mess with other things in DIS.

What should I try? Should I try disconnecting the battery? Is there some ip issue with the DIS? How do I check IP in the DIS anyway?

Twins I hope you don't mind I'm going to give you a call today to pick your brain. I would be great to get this to work by the time my parts actually show up from ecst.

Thanks all in advance.

I would try disconnecting the head from the admin section of DIS and reconnecting it, and you can even test your connection to make sure DIS communicates with the yellow head.

Hi Neil, thanks. I actually do not understand what you mean. I guess there is an admin section in DIS. If I disconnect the head, is there something special I need to do to reconnect it?

What's the process for testing head communication? Those two signal strength bars on top right of the screen, I thought they represented connectivity and communication.

Twins suggested I try to have the car running to keep voltage up. I'm going to go give this a shot in about 15 min. I hope this does the trick. I'll post back shortly.

Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming if you can think of something else to try.