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First time posting, or maybe not. I have a 2002 Estoril 4.6is with 170,000 miles and the transmission is showing sings of failure (no evidence of prior rebuild but otherwise well maintained, guides done at 140K etc.). Seems to slip out of gear when going around a corner, as there is a mild lurch as power returns. I'm an old guy and don't push it, just looking for a comfy winter driver. It has gone into failsafe mode just once, and since then has behaved normally on short drives (<50 miles). Seems like a rebuild would run about $6k, but a local indie BMW shop said they could not even find anyone to rebuild in Colorado. On line rebuilt sites have no stock on rebuilts.
I'm inclined to just drive it this winter; commute is about 20 miles each way once or twice a week. See what happens. Any thoughts, or suggestions for a rebuilt source for the 5HP24? Do these tend to fail quickly, or might I get the winter out of it and think about options in the spring? I have an e46 (zhp cab 6 speed) and e39 (msport dinan 6 speed) so well versed re the engine side of things, but the auto is new to me. Thanks in advance for any insights. Larry |
First off, have you ever changed the fluid/filter?
It could be something as simple as... Needing fluid added, filter/valve body gasket replaced or solenoid replacement. At the other end it could be a crack between channels in the valve body requiring a new valve body (not whole transmission) I recommend you check out the threads or post there to get more and better responses [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A528B using Tapatalk |
The 4.4i and the 4.6is both have the ZF5HP24 transmission, but the BMW and ZF part numbers are slightly different to reflect the fact that the 4.6 slushbox has:
- A larger torque converter (than the 4.4 version) - an extra clutch - a bell housing with a different internal profile to accommodate the larger TQ. The bolt pattern is identical to the 4.4 version. I second EODguy’s advice, and I would also add that you can reach out to ZF customer service and ask them parts and other technical questions. They’ve been very responsive to my questions over the past years. Regarding a rebuilt 4.6 gearbox, cores and donors are super hard to come by since the 4.6 was a low numbers vehicle. However, I’m sure any reputable ZF savvy shop could rebuild yours, if you can afford to not drive the car for a while. The TQ is the question though, if you need a new one. That said, the 4.4 gearbox works fine hooked up to the 4.6. I’ve had my e53 running in that config for almost a year and a half now (I swapped a 4.6 into my car, and used the 4.4 gearbox because the 4.6 version was really hard to find). I suspect you could toss a 4.4 TQ into the 4.6 tranny and it would work fine too, as long as the bolt patterns are the same….which they might not be. Regardless, you could use a 4.4 flex plate, if they are different. They are a dime-a-dozen on eBay (use new bolts tho!) RealOEM would tell you if the part numbers are different. I would consider, if all else fails, sourcing a 5hp24 from a 4.4, or 540, etc. and using that. I haven’t burnt mine up yet. The control modules may need some massaging though, or they could work fine. I am using my 4.4 modules but the DME is running a 4.6 tune. You might only need to get your TCU flashed with the 4.4 ZF program. A remanufactured 4.4 5hp24 from a shop in California cost me a couple grand 5 years ago when mine gave out, if I recall. Likely much cheaper than the 4.6 version. |
RealOEM shows the same flexplate part number (11221435235) for the 4.4 and 4.6 motors. So that’s good news. You could possibly just swap in a 4.6 torque converter for your 4.6 piece, assuming you need a new one. They are difficult to find while rebuilt and new 4.4 TQs are available.
The only question would be if the input and pump shafts sizes, spline counts, etc are different between the two trannys. I’d be surprised if they were different, but ZF could tell you that. I have an electronic ZF parts catalog and will take a look, and update this thread later. Update: the ZF doc I have doesn’t list the input group input shaft assembly as a separate part you can purchase, only the bearings and seals on either side of it. So that’s not particularly conclusive as to if the 4.4 TQ will fit onto the 4.6 gearbox shaft. |
+1 on following EODguys advice, have your valve body inspected for any cracks before resorting to a full rebuild. I just recently had my 4.6 trans rebuilt. Like many, I was getting the harsh downshift from 2nd into 1st then I started getting trans failsafe errors after the trans would downshift that would put the truck into limp mode. Watched several YouTube videos from Gary Ferraro who thankfully is local and went to him for a rebuild. Lower valve body and A Drum is prone to issues. Check him out, give him a call. I’ve read that he’s helped people with information and tips that weren’t local to him.
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The trans on my 4.4 started getting a thump between 2nd and 3rd a few years ago at circa 160k miles.. I had already replaced the fluid and filter several years before too. This time when I took the sump off to take a look a big chunk of metal was there.
Anyway, I put new fluid in and drove it about. Lasted about a month before I lost drive at a junction. Had the whole lot removed and rebuilt for £2000 here in the uk. I would suggest doing a service on it before anything else to see what happens. |
Sent the transmission to Erikkson Industries Eriksson Industries
They should be able to rebuild yours as well as rebuild the torque converter. |
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One thing I've noticed on my 4.6 is that downshifting in Sport Mode is harsh, so I only put it in Sport Mode if I am accelerating. If I'm about to hit the brakes or let off the gas I will jump out of Sport Mode first. Not sure if this will 'prolong' the life of the transmission but the car seems to complain a lot less. just fyi
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Sorry to ghost y'all for a month, especially after all that excellent information and advice. This is a fourth vehicle for me and I'm waffling a lot; hate to see another Estoril 4.6is parted out, but choking on the $9K quote to install a rebuilt (and also doubting that the shop can actually find one). There were two silver 4.6is's posted for sale here in Denver in the last month for $2,000 and $1,200 but I missed them both.
Anyway, here is more information. Transmission was serviced (flush and filter) by PO at 140K miles, now at 170K. I bought it at 160K and asked a local indie if I should service again, and they said no, they have never seen a 4.6 transmission last to 160. At about 165 I noticed symptoms; after braking it seemed to slip out of gear as there was a very mild lurch as I opened the throttle; most noticeable after a sharp right turn. It also seemed to fight me when braking; it was still trying to pull as I came to a stop. Took it to a different, less specialty shop (tech claims to be a 540 fanatic). They said it was overfilled (which is a red flag since that's nearly impossible) and the fluid smells burnt, needs rebuild and estimated $6K. About a month later I was on the highway at ~70 mph and the trifecta lit, but it did not seem to go into failsafe, shifting normally for the rest of the 4 miles home. Only short drives for the next couple of months with no change, and eventually the trifecta went away. Then I drove it ~20 miles to work, and trifecta returned at the very last stoplight. Still shifted normally for the drive home with trifecta on. I bought a reader based on forum advice (I've used OBD fusion heavily for my 330, and have INPA but no german). But the reader results seem pretty vague; four drivetrain issues and here is the entirety of that report: 1.EGS: Symptom, Gear Monitoring 2.EGS: Speed Signal N-Ou (Output) 3.EGS: Converter Lockup Clutch, Excessive Slip 4.EGS: Batt. + Supply, Term. 87 So I think I need to fire up INPA and have a better look; hope to do that this weekend. Also note that there are 3 safety and 17 body issues reported by the reader (including an apparently dead left rear wheel speed sensor), and I may have some electrical issues as well. Truck is super clean inside, has some fairly major paint issues on the front end. Hoping to keep it alive! Thanks for all the input so far. Stay tuned. Larry |
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A local transmission shop quoted me (canadian dollars so that's 25% off your USD) A & M transmissions "quote" for ZHP24 rebuild. include RE+RE and 60KM warranty, new TRQ convertor. one week turn-around with access to rebuild parts. 3500-4000 clutches and seals. 4800-5800 for extra failure parts. I also have a new valvebody that I didn't use either, but it's the for the 4.4 engine and I didn't end up by using it but I'm sure 99% of all the parts inside are good to carry-over like all the solenoids. It would be nice to sell this kit to another member here. I managed to get a recently rebuilt transmission by a local guy off a bmw group for $1500 so that's the route I went.:dunno: |
Send the transmission to Erikkson Industries back east. They're one of the few ZF distributors in the US and they quoted me under $3,000 to rebuild the transmission and torque converter. Don't let your 4.6 die, a transmission is rebuildable and should never mean the death of a rare car.
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Does anyone know if the 4.10 differential from a 01 X5 3.0 is a direct fit in a 02 4.6 which has a 3.90 ratio?
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Just picked up an 06 Imola 4.8is, and the NAV screen has seen better days. I did some searching and it seems they the replacements are all over ebay, but they state one part number in the title, i.e. 51, and then show a pic with the 54 screen.
Is there a recommended seller in the US for the 51 screens so as to avoid an issue with a potential return to China? Thanks! |
This imola red 4.6is popped up in my city and is being parted out. I robbed the front, rear bumpers and style 87 wheels for 500 bucks. It's got red interior too. I don't imagine too many of these cars with red interior were sold in canada.
https://www.facebook.com/share/127oL...ibextid=kL3p88 |
What is a fair price for an 06 4.8is with 220K miles?
Clean title, runs great, needs engine mounts, front window regulator, and the sunshade reupholstered. Needs a detail too as it's being stored out side right now sadly (was garaged up until a few months ago). Some recent maintenance, all pulleys, water pump because I was in there, it's had the "big" n62 things done. I have maintenance records for some of the work done to it over it's life, but not all. Has never smoked once for me, a solid driver overall. Has the aerodynamic body kit, black sapphire metallic over the cream white interior with 18 way seats Loved this truck but time to move on, I want to do another engine swap, maybe swap the 4.8is drivetrain into an E39 wagon, or a B48 Z3... but, need to clear out some of these other toys first and I just don't drive the X5 anymore. I think I've put 100 miles on it the past year - after putting 25,000 on it the first few years with it. My work supplies me with a truck now so I'm either in that or driving my wife's E39. |
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I’d say you should expect $4k+. $4500 if someone is REALLY searching for one with an aero kit. There are more factors to your solicitation for value estimate that pictures would help to pinpoint the number. There is an imola red 4.8is near me in Omaha that hasn’t sold for asking price of $3500 at a dealer in over 3months. Price unchanged in that time…236k miles. Trouble is, the “right” buyer will need to appreciate VSS and coolant pipe being complete and there are fewer and fewer educated e53 buyers out there. GLWS! |
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Sold today for $4,500... funny how that happens lol. It's bittersweet selling cars like that - it was a fantastic vehicle and I hate to see it go but I just didn't have room for it anymore.
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Where are the camshaft position sensors?
Can anyone help me locate the camshaft position sensors on my 2005 4.8is? I got a code for the intake CPS. Thanks!
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The intake cam sensor is at the rear of the valve cover, near the firewall. There are three sensors in that area the intake cam is the middle one
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Is the "BEST" really 2.7/5.0 stars on 290 ratings, though? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
My Oxford green X5 was in a crash about two years back. Some guy decided not to yield which caused be to drive straight into him. I was faced with a decision, give it to insurance and try to find another (impossible in 2025) or buy it back from insurance and fix it right. I went with the second option. I removed the entire drivetrain from the car and gave the rolling chassis to the best body shop in the area.
The body shop replaced the front left frame rail and replaced the end of the front right frame rail. The X5 went on a jig to ensure it was measured perfectly and then they painted the new hood, bumper, and other misc parts. I then spent the last 6 months putting it all back together. Every single nut, bolt, clip, body nut, etc. is correct and how it should be from factory. I spent endless amounts of time on real OEM ensuring that a screw for the head shield or body wiring harness zip tie or brake line bracket was the right part. Most of the hardware was just ordered new so I knew it was correct. Pretty much every part, no matter how small, that was removed, was replaced. Here is a link to the photo album of just some pictures I took along the way. https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjCtNvv |
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Not a color seen over here, but I really like it.[emoji106] Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk |
Love it! Love the green too. Nice work.
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Thanks all!
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Looking to buy a front bumper and lower valance for 2003 4.6 X5.
Dude with no insurance hit me straight on. I’m in DFW area. Imola red if you got it! |
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