I just completed this project over the weekend on a 05 X5 4.8is. I used the pop out the shaft from the CV joint after removing the lower control arm process as described multiple times in this topic. The job was easy, fast and completed in less time than I expected due to the fact I was doing this in a driveway with hand tools only.
I cheated on the prying the shaft out of the CV joint as I did not use Vice Grips on the shaft. I have a Miller Specialty tool for removing Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Torsion Bars, which is nothing more than a big twin V-block out of hi $$ steel that clamps down on round bars using 4 grade 8 hex bolts drilled and taped on each corner. Comes with a handy handle that treads into the unit for rotation and easy movement.
http://www.arengineering.com/articles/Image18.jpg http://ts4.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.50474...7&rs=1&pid=1.7 No these images are NOT of a BMW X5........

The step of getting the CV joint passed the clip (releasing the joint from the shaft) just required a little extra pressure AND out it popped. A quick clean up with LOTS of paper towels kept the mess to a min. Getting the outer boot on, inserting the shaft back into the joint was easy. The trick of using a worm drive hose clamp (small) on the axle shaft on top of the c-clip makes this job easy to reassemble. Line up the shaft in the joint and apply a little pressure and it just clicks in place.
Total time of work included clean up, grilling brats, having a beer to celebrate 3 hrs. It took longer to set up the X5, put the tools away after cleaning all the grease off, grilling the brats, and eating than I think it took to do the job itself. Eating the brats knowing the job was completed successfully was the best part. :thumbup:

Thanks to another X5/M5 owner who came by to help for his arm pulling/pressing and the great conversations. Made it easy and fun. I would recommend this DIY for anyone with a reasonable amount of repair skills. Rank it up as a #6 on the 1 to 10 scale of effort/knowledge/tool level. ( a #10 would be head removal or Vanos seal replace and clean job on a M5. Spark plugs on the X5 is a #1.5).

How would others who have completed this project rank it?

It would be great if you could post a link to the tool.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2269_50071097
MOPAR - Torsion Bar Tool
$35.95
MRE2346I


Here is an updated version from http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2270_49644

Also can be made out of wood
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...ionbartool.bmp

Thanks. Do you know if they continue to make it with the handle?

Yep and the price will kill you
 

SPX Miller Special Tools Torsion Bar Remover
Toolsource #114259
Manufacturers Part Number #C-3728
$407.39

Lisle CV Boot Clamp Pliers for Ear Type Clamps
Toolsource #67920
Manufacturers Part Number #30800
$22.50

Features:

For all ear-type clamps
Designed for use w/ a torque wrench, as required for stainless steel bands.
Skin packed.
Shipping weight 15 Oz.
Lisle 30800 CV Boot Clamp Pliers for Ear Type Clamps

Add this tool to you must buy list for all BMW pinch clamps

I read a few good tips here and there for the cv boot replacement which I will try to find and add someday .
One very useful tip for the c-clip is to place the c- clip in the groove of the shaft and make sure the open ends of the c-clip are uppermost ( at the top , the highest point ) so that the open ends sink into the groove and this will prevent them snagging in the way some diy-ers have found .

Yikes.

All the sudden the $35 version looks very appealing.

Thought that price would get your attention. I paid a whole lot less 20 years ago. I think I paid $89?
The Mancini version works perfect for the hobby user. For both the intended use and as a block to leverage the shaft out of the cv joint.
You can make it out of wood by following the link on my earlier post.

Over all,if your joint is clean, no dirt, sand, and grease is NOT contaminated with water, you can just wipe clean and install a new boot. If it is any of the above or if there is ANY question, I would take the time to drive out the hub, clean the joint and all the balls and re assemble. Takes a little longer but the life of the joint is what really matters! :thumbup:

If I try this method on the next boot, I'd go for the $35 piece and pry or tap on it.

I recall folks saying it is impacts that frees the shaft from the joint, not steady pressure. Also it was sharp taps, not pressure that popped my shafts from the case.

Thanks for the references.