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Thanks, saw a far lower number here.
Step 2 says: "Install the axle nut and torque the nut to 71 foot-pounds". Quite a difference... |
Has anyone tried this method?
My front right is ripped in half. After reading all 271 posts, I was wondering why aren't CV boots designed with a slit that is zippered on. Went searching the web and found this. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y Easy boot singol kit ø 90 - Cuffia Facile, cuffia semiasse innovativa by Hippored |
I've seen this product before (AFTER I replaced my boots, unfortunately). Looks like a fantastic idea - if they make one that fits the X5, I'd definitely try this before going through the agony of replacing the boots via removal of the axles.
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:banghead: split boot kits are NOT reliable, stop looking for shortcuts with such a critical item, CV axles are meant to last hundreds of thousands of miles with proper maintenance, and the outer boots on the front take the most abuse out of all 8 booted joints on the vehicle. The split in the boot that makes it easy to install is also a failure prone weak point in the boot construction which will be where it fails later on.
Do it right or do it twice people. GKN kits are $15 a side. |
Ricky Bobby is correct in the position of split boots usage. ALL have a high failure rate after install. This design came up in the aftermarket many years ago with the intro of front wheel drive cars. TOTAL FAILURE due to material design engineering and quality issues.
Save yourself LOTS of grief and use the right products on the first attempt at repairs. Saves lots of forum posting as well. |
Is there any actual recent, relevant data on the unreliability of split CV Boots? Yanking an axle to replace a boot is an INSANE amount of work - I could replace 20 of the split boots in the amount of time it takes to pull out an axle to do it. I don't understand why a split, glueable boot would inherently be less reliable than a solid boot. If it is, it must be due to poor execution on the part of the manufacturers, as opposed to a bad design. If so, there's a great business opportunity for someone to do this right!
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Only thing needed is remove brake disc, caliper, axle nut, press out axle from hub, and disconnect bottom 2 strut bolts. Pop outer joint off the axle and leave the axle shaft and inner joint installed on vehicle. Doing it right isn't an insane amount of time IMO (I'm sure a BMW mechanic or experienced shop can do it faster than I can) and the time you will use waiting for glue to cure and cleaning every speck of a mm to be sure the seam is glued properly isn't worth it. This is coming from a highly successful and regarded Axle shop who supplies with rock solid replacement axles: Split Boots for CV Axles Explained - Raxles Inc. |
Go for it! :popcorn:
It is considered a "band Aid" or a "Coat hanger" repair in the professional world. The market for a split boot would be 3rd world or DIY with low skill sets where price is the sole driver of the purchase. As our car age beyond 10 years, many of the third, fourth owners are driven by lower cost of ownership as the primary focus. Any rational review of these cars on just $$ would drive potential owners to look else where for cheap transportation, as owning a high end car out of warranty is not for those who are driven by low entry costs and low maintenance costs. A few of our newest posters appear to have fallen for the low entry cost carrot without much consideration to deferred maintenance costs hook. |
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Did you try a sledge hammer? My axle was seized and I could not get my puller to work. Had a friend hold a large punch against the end of the axle, and tapped it right out with a heavy ass sledge. worked like a charm and didn't damage the axle.
I have never heard of the split boot lasting. I think if they did, you would see them used much more often. Would I carry them on an expedition rig for emergency repairs? Sure, would I use them if I had other options? No. |
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