Thank you FSETH!

No problem. You just want to check the fine print from what ever source you trust for the torque specs. I think the Bentley manual may have lubed torque specs. Not positive though.

I havent seen bosch plugs in BMWs in forever. The last 3 sets I've gotten from them were NGK.

I was interested to read the comments on anti-seize being added by various posters. I have never used anti-seize on plugs, and always understood it to be a negative. I never thought about it much, I was just trained to install plugs dry. If they are tight, make sure that you change them when they are cool. If they are torqued properly going in, they come out fine in my experience.

Not sure why there is a concern over aluminum and steel being in contact. Sure, there can be electrolysis and corrosion, but that requires an electrolyte such as water to be between the two metals. It is a concern on the outside of boats, hence the use of zincs, but it isn't a concern for plugs in aluminum heads, IMO.

The manufacturers that started putting a special lube on their new replacement plugs did so to stop installers from using anti-seize and other lubes. It is reportedly nasty stuff, so use gloves when handling those plugs. There are test reports from plug manufacturers that show that anti-seize changes the heat rating of the plug. It is obvious that if it gets on the tip it causes problems, but even a small amount just on the threads was shown to be a problem in some cases.

Just my $0.02. If there are other reasons why anti-seize should be used, I would be interested to hear them.

Until recently, the dealers gave me an option of Bosch or NGK. I preferred Bosch from past experience, but was going to give the NGK's a shot. When I called one local dealer for a quote, they said NGK's were out as a dealer supplied part and that Bosch was the sole plug used. That is just what one dealer told me. I have not tried any other dealers in my area, but the fact that the NGK plug's part number has recently changed makes me think the dealer was telling the truth. :dunno:

The ETK still lists the NGK BKR6EQUP (12 12 9 071 003) as the correct plug. Might want to speak to your dealer about that. My guess is that they have a bunch of old stock they need to unload. I would get NGKs no matter what.

Also, both plugs claim 100k intervals but I would change them every 30-50k.

I think you're 100% correct.

Anti-seize, in my experience, leads to over torquing of plugs. I dont believe they were ever meant to have a lubricant on the threads, and IIRC adding a lubricant to the threads increases the torque value (at least it does on bolts).

I just got off the phone with another dealer in the Atlanta area and they confirmed what the first dealer told me. I got a price quote on plugs ($18.99 with the BMWCCA discount by the way) and I asked if the plugs were NGK or Bosch because I would prefer the NGK's. He put me on hold so he could go look at the plugs himself. He came back and said "looks like they are back to Bosch again". NGK wasn't at option at either dealer I called, so I am guessing if you do find NGK at a dealer it is because they haven't run out of them yet. It seems Bosch is the sole manufacturer as far as dealer sourced plugs are concerned.

Just me personally, but unless there are issues, I refuse to change out OE plugs before 80,000 miles or so. Now, if we are talking aftermarket plugs, I would do them at about 40,000.

False. An uncalibrated torque wrench leads to overtorqueing.

What do you think bmw has a plug factory? OE and aftermaket are the same, just rebranded. A platinum or iridium tip plug w/one ground electrode is just that. No matter the maker. Two plugs of the same design and different brand are the same plug.