They did. Good people. I used them quite a bit when they first opened, and for a few years thereafter, including the transmission r/r. Then they got quite expensive and less willing to use the parts I would show up with. I fully understand that parts are a big part of the business, but my “business” is wrenching on my cars, sometimes screwing them up or get in over my head and then asking for help. I’ve usually got the parts on hand by then.

Logan out at the BimmerShop is super easy to work with, and has done a good job for me when the car gets dropped off at his doorstep. This has tended to be off a flatbed over the past year as I’ve worked the kinks out from my motor swap. He’s also put rear axles in for me as I was sick of pulling axles, sorted out my pulley issues and a blown heater hose that I mis-routed. Good dude too and a wealth of knowledge about M6x powered cars. I will say that he’s always quite backed up, so you’ll need to be prepared to be without your car for a week or so if you take it to him. I drool over a ratty looking M6 he’s had out in front of his shop for a long time. The owner won’t part with it, but won’t fix it either.

I may use him to do a full Bilstein shock, strut and spring refresh including bearings, pads, the works. I think I’m getting a lot of noise from these worn out pieces and parts. On the other hand, this is easy driveway work, or should be anyway. I think I’ll just do the B4 pieces as a firmer ride isn’t what I’m going for with my x5 project, but I suspect the Bilstein units will be a nicer solution than OE.

Yeah, I've heard Nolasport is quite expensive and have also heard good things about Logan.

I'm itching to swap the slushbox in my E53 with a manual, but have a lift and consider myself somewhat mechanically inclined, so I'll probably do it myself.

A manual conversion is my holy grail project too, but will likely never happen. Seems to expensive and too much custom work on the 4.4/6 motors to be even remotely practical.

Following Clavurion's advice on how to remove mirror glass, it's so much easier to see slow traffic being left behind. A nice OEM all weather mat was also found. Mine has minor rips from use. The mirrors don't match out three X5s found in Austin. None of them had folding mirrors. Plus, I discovered mine has auto dim mirrors. Both have second connections. I'll try out these blue mirrors. If I like them, then auto dim mirrors will be ordered. Picked two towing eye bolts, a flashlight, and one pano roof allen wrench.

Is there a way to lube the moving mirror mechanism? The right mirror sticks. Plus it doesn't return to previous angles after backing up.

Yep I have a few creaks I'd like to get rid of. Where is this write up?

Cheers

I was curious myself and did some searching

I think this is it: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...t-stfu-x5.html

Yep, that’s it. I took the passenger front door card off today to troubleshoot an airbag light and code which turned out to be (hopefully) just a loose connector. Mine have been plugged and unplugged way too many times at this point and are pretty loose.

While I was in there I covered the inside with some leftover dynamat extreme I had from another project, just to see how it would go. I ended up with probably 80 or 90 percent of the inside of the door skin covered, so we will see how that helps with wind noise, etc. from that area. I also got to reglue some more door card pieces that wanted to stay on the door rather than on the card.

I’ll order some more dynamat, or maybe something cheaper and have a go at the drivers side, then the trunk lid and the rear wheel wells, I think as I get lots of noise from that area.

A huge source of creaks on my E53 was the seat motor control trim. I took both front seats apart, and found that my driver's side trim had some cracked tabs so I ordered a new piece. Despite it being just a simple plastic piece, the new one made a massive difference - it's completely silent now. I tried applying a light layer of grease on the plastic tab touch points for the passenger side piece and also did the felt tape trick in this link, but it still creaks. It's actually coming from the housing for the seat buttons. I think I'm going to bite the bullet on a new trim piece for that side as well because the spring force on the plastic tabs just wears out over time.

I am getting lots of squeaks, etc. from my seats at this point too, but I think mine are coming, or some are coming from the seat springs themselves. I've got my "new" seats with the upholstery shop (still waiting on the leather) so I'm not going to bother with the old ones. They will go in the dumpster eventually, after I rob the motors and controller/switch-gear off them.

I get some very loud noises too from the trunk lids (top and/or bottom). I've put new upper "stoppers" on the body side, and still need to replace the stops on the uppper lid itself...part number 51247004475 I think. Mine are worn out.

Does just ordering a new heater control valve count?

thought after doing the oil pan and replacing/tightening all the clamps on the PS hoses I had all the leaks gone. Then late last summer I noticed a small spot drivers side mid engine showing up.... almost though one of the brand new motor mounts started leaking or something....
low coolant light came on and I decided I better take a closer look at things
leaking between the body and solenoids....
debated between the rebuild kit($24) and new($26) since its winter time I will put a new one in and rebuild the old one later this summer as a spare