Honestly, I don't know that it's worth a thread.

I think that the biggest note is that there are a lot of different ways that people are hooking up the air distribution rail from the manifold to the valve cover outlet.

The absolute easiest way is to use this piece: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...se-11617504535

I did that, but honestly, I hate it. You end up needing to use TWO vacuum caps, which adds a very real source of future leaks, and the one by the 90 ends up very visible.

Beyond that, I like these for caps:
https://www.amazon.com/HPS-Temperatu...083QJNZDZ?th=1

Kind of ugly, but way more durable than the usual shitty rubber caps. You'll need one in 3/8 or 10mm for the dipstick no matter what - and that will be out of sight.

Edit: Corrected to remove suggestion that M56 distribution rail is usable. It turns out that it's permanently bonded to the manifold.

Sort of late, but changed my ATF and filter over the weekend. Even though my truck only has a hair under 45k on the clock, the fluid was still gnarly.

See, I think that is great information for a thread. Also how you selected the correct valve cover and what other parts you needed. I didn't do this when I first did my CCV because it seemed like I would have to do a bit of trailblazing, given the amount of information on the project.

Maybe I'll throw this into a thread later.

I have a few other notes.

New factory windshield and molding installed at the dealership, paid for by insurance. Now the rainsensor is working. Also replaced the lower oil pan gasket myself and, of course, did an oil change with new filter. Used BMW performance 0W30 oil. My 4.4 seems to start better in the bitter cold.

Had my vehicle's suspension inspected and found that the rear end basically has to be rebuilt.
So, ordered the first phase of parts: rear lower ball joints, integral links and upp, fwd control arms.
Thought it would be a normal amount of work but the eccentric bolts holding the control arms on were seized into the bushing, so the sawzall took those off. Ordered new eccentric bolts with nut and washer, $160cad for both sides. Removing the lower ball joints was fun when I realized that a standard c clamp style press wouldn't work. Ordered the proper press off of Amazon ($65cad) and they were both in and out in a half hour. Reinstalling the links was also fun as I didn't realize how loaded the lower control arm was. Removed and loosened everything holding it in place then installed everything, torqued everything at ride height and now all is well.
Next phase is subframe bushings and upper, rear control arms.

Just ordered 2 new FAG front wheel bearings, if one is bad, both really are

Anyone have any life expectancy on how long the one in there might last since it just started making noise?
I really want to wait for it to warm up a bit outside as doing this job in the driveway in 36F weather is not my idea of fun

Started shaking on braking 2 days ago. Even at high speed and jumping on the binders shaking stayed until released then reapplying brakes it was smooth, never pulled off-center.

All this made me think bad bushings and with the haji roads it would be expected [emoji58]

But, no....

I had invented a mobius disc brake somehow [emoji1787]
I got a used disc and had it turned along with my other ones and went to town getting done, which led to a complete alignment and balancing.
I then attempted test 21 to fix the discrepancy between fuel tank and guage... No joy there but that could have been due to me being tired from the above playtime.

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You've likley got a few thousand miles on a noisy bearing before it gets bad enought to fail but YMMV.

And they can fail independantly from each other - it's not just age/miles that wear them out. Water ingress and/or pot-hole damage can take one bearing out while the others are fine.

I agree with wpoll, wheel bearings rarely fail quickly unless they have been damaged by an impact. And sometimes the noise can be mis-diagnosed and is actually caused by damaged or just noisy tires.