It's a vibration "absorber"

I think the correct term is "tuned mass damper" but that's splitting hairs :D

I was just going off what it is called on RealOEM. Tuned mass damper works for me.

yep, TMD, there is a NVH frequency they are trying to reduce with that thing.
the OEMs dont add mass to a vehicle for just any reason, some times its sound and or vibrations, some times its really durability. I have seen test vehicles destroy parts without them

Most cars have them in many locations on the car nowadays too.

:wavey: We just arrived for our stay in Metairie. Not going to NOLA.

Left Front wheel bearing is replaced, actually did that Tuesday since it was almost 50F in Detroit.

A lot of the scarry noise is gone, but the right side I am sure is making noise, unless its also diff noise(hope not). Will need to do the other side and ordered 2 bearings so it will wait till it warms up again.
Outside on the ground in 30ish deg weather is for the young, and I am not anymore :P

I got under the car looking for a clunk that I am starting to hear whenever I tap the brakes. I was thinking it might have been something I didn't tighten when I recently did the front pads and rotors, but everything was tight. I yanked on all the control arms and the clunk is actually coming from what I believe is called the "tension strut." The front right is pretty wobbly but the front left is not far behind it.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
I have never had to replace any links on this car (I am still only at 128k miles), though the previous owner had the "front thrust rod bushings" replaced at 72k miles (I am not sure what those are). Would be happy to hear any experiences with replacing either the entire arm or just the bushing, and whether I should do anything else at the same time.

I just replace entire units in the car, and in pairs. I’d likely save a buck and do just the bushings but I figure buying a press, or special tools would make it a wash to do these things once every 10 years.

I do everything suspension-wise symmetrically. Tension struts aren’t difficult but everything should have its final torquing with the weigh of the car on it and settled as much as possible (off jacks and bounce up and down on the front bumper a bit). Id recommend getting new bolts and nuts too, if you live in a place with wet salty roads. Otherwise just new nuts on each end.

Thanks Henn28, my car is a lifelong PNW car so it never saw any salt at any time. (Or at least I bought it from Portlandia before they started salting their roads, since that's a very recent thing.) Hopefully it will be an easy job.