Foxwell NT520 will reset the Xfer case oil wear.

Red got her brake fluid flushed. I couldn't remember the last time I did it (maybe never?)... which is never a good policy for fluid maintenance. What came out and what went in were definitely different hues of gold. Brakes feel better now too. :thumbup:

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ISTA is the way to go, once you get it working. I posted what I ran into here

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1236780

I'm turning the corner on the clutch job. The new rear cover looks good.

I did knock the transfer case bushing out the other day. I just used a small hacksaw blade to cut into it a bit and then pushed the relief inward with a couple screwdrivers. Then it tapped / pryed right out the back pretty easily. The new one is still in the freezer, hopefully I can figure out a way to press it in.

The one bellhousing dowel was quite a bit mangled. I elected to replace this, which should have taken 5 seconds. Well it didn't come out and I nearly destroyed it with the vice grips. So 3 days later I finally got back under there and got it out.

I learned to remove those, use lubrication, and don't just grab it with the vice grips. Put something inside of the dowel first like a pin or a suitable bolt. Then you can grab and twist it. A certain 1/2" bolt fit inside the dowel nicely, and the little 20% piece I didn't break off of it thankfully was enough to grab it in conjunction with the bolt and twist it out. :thumbup:

Does the Foxwell actually do xfer case wear? I thought Andrew had a foxwell?



BTW, does anybody actually flush their brake fluid every 2 years like BMW says? I am more of a 4-5 year guy myself. By the PO of my car actually did it every 2 years.

The FoxWell Pro 520 does reset transfer case oil wear. I reset it on mine with a Pro 520.

ISTA with an ICOM on the laptop is my favorite diag package. But when I travel I use the Foxwell for any code reading or away from home diag.

Here's a few examples of what I've done for Xfer case bushings on Xdrive bimmers. Not elegant, but worked great for pressing in. I didn't even freeze the new bushings...

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...229_204033.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...229_204334.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...acement-20.jpg

I have used the NT520 to reset Xfer case wear. I am also a 4-5 year brake fluid guy. Every 2 years seems excessive unless you track the vehicle or do stop and go traffic every day.

The nt-510 does also. I brought up the nt-530 because I was 90% sure someone on here posted that they had problems talking to all the modules that the nt-510/nt-520 did.

I could be mistaken though.

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Beautiful Girls in your city for night
 

I use a tester and if the water gets above 2%, I think it is overdue for changing. maybe one percent don’t remember the exact number but there’s a green yellow and red dot on it.


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+1 on this. The tester saves a lot of unnecessary work.

I finished the clutch job over the weekend. Drove it a bunch already. So far the UUC kit seems good. A solid 3 weeks since I failed to install the slave cylinder, and probably 5 weeks since I drove it. so now,

- new rear engine cover, rear main seal
- uuc lightweight flywheel
- uuc performance organic clutch
- new slave cylinder..
- new clutch fork, new clip, e38 stainless pivot pin, guide tube, throw out bearing
- replaced failed shift rod seal
- new shift rod brass bushing
- new transfer box mount bushing
- various part / chassis cleaning, rust proofing, etc. new bolts
- replace rusted transmission crossmember with nice clean rust free painted one
- new MTF, transfer case fluid
- bleed brakes, bleed clutch
- ISTA to clear adaptations and transfer box

There is some erratic chatter from the gearbox due to the flywheel, but it's not really too bad. You can only hear it from outside and underneath. Inside the cabin it's fine. It is loud in the garage.

The clutch is really nice. It's very grabby and right at the floor. No chatter. Slightly stiffer than stock, perfect. We'll see how it holds up.

The flywheel, the problem I am having, is that the tachometer on the cluster is really laggy. It's always been slow to start moving. I'm going to have to look into that. It revs really nice now but I can't see it on the tach, it's a weird effect.

This time, when I installed the slave cylinder, I opened the bleed screw. A few weeks ago I left it closed. I think that was the mistake I made. It went up much easier this time. And the fork, they definitely reused the clip, and it was not on well at all. I don't think you should ever try to reuse those clips.

I pressed the transfer mount bushing in with the cheap toolkit on Amazon. I didn't know that was a available, it was only $80, and it worked totally fine. Not $500. With the bushing in the freezer and some good lubricants I got half of it in by hand. The DIY tools above look good, but I figured for me to obtain materials for and make them was more than $80 worth of work.

To fill the transfer case and transmission, again, this time, instead of that stupid syringe tool, that takes forever and makes a huge mess, I bought two 1 gallon garden sprayers and PEX ball valves. Cut the output tubing short, put the barb for the valve in, and add tubing on the other end to go into the fill plug. Just pump it up and then open the valve. This works so well I highly recommend this. I didn't spill a drop and I didn't have to move. Home depot sprayer, 3/8 to 1/2 reducing barb fitting, 1/2 barb ball valve, 1/2 id 3/4 od tubing, hose clamps. All in the plumbing section.

I used the sachs high temp clutch grease on the clutch and shifter bits. On the transmission output splines, front prop shaft splines, and rear prop shaft centering sleeve, I cleaned everything and used the Weicon high temp anti-seize grease. Really nice stuff.

There was a lot of stuff wrong from whomever did the clutch and oil pan job in 2021. There was all kinds of metal clanging noise in the bellhousing when you pressed or let off the clutch, now it's quiet like my other cars. Just a bunch of little stuff that wasn't right, bolts that weren't tight, the center shaft bearing was nowhere near 90°, etc, etc.

I got the transmission up last Saturday. It was like going four rounds with Mike Tyson. Once I realized I should insert the lower bolts into the dowel pin hole, to help hold it straight rotation wise, and got the starter halfway in, it slid right up. I did clean and sand the rusty starter dowel, and used a file on the hole for it in the transmission so it would go in easy, which it did. I also deployed a couple small zip ties to keep that cover plate in place as it was moving.

The next day I put the transfer box up and some other little odds and ends. And then Monday and Tuesday I could barely move. :D took me the rest of the week to get back to it.

There's still an occasional fuel trim code even after replacing the oxygen sensors, so there might be a little vacuum leak or a CCV issue somewhere.