I won't let them proceed if they won't agree to 0.01" :). I want the camber set to minimum but within spec after the vehicle is loaded with a tank of gas.

As for the tires, I scored a set of used run flats for $320. I wanted a crap set while I sorted out the suspension issues. Well worth it :). But I agree and would prefer non-RFT.

I was going to use the argument that it's no different than trying to do an alignment on a car with bad suspension parts. They will release a car that is not in tolerance. In this case, it'll be because I wanted them to :)

Where do I start?

Complete suspension overhaul including but not limited to:
All control arms, including new OE bushings, tension struts (top bottom, fore and aft), integral links, ball joints, rear bushes, swaybar links and bushings, inner and outer tie rods, remanufactured my own steering rack (through rack doctor.net) - since they didn't have one in stock, all new PS hoses, reservoir and fluid. both front outer axle boots, rear shock mounts, rear shocks, shock boots.

Idle tensioner pully, all new belts, vacuum pump o-ring, front windshield plastic cowl, air filter housing, new air filter, cabin filter, front and rear wiper arms and blades (the old ones had rust on the springs that I would stare at from the driver's seat), new A pillars. Coolant flush.

Swapped out the interior for black / silver Alcantara sport seats and door cards.

Waiting for me new Arnott Air Pump (hence the video I posted over the weekend.)

4-wheel alignment at the dealer.

Where are the pics of the X after all that work lol!

Dude, I am getting pretty "done" with this thing. I still have susp. inactive lights, which after purchasing an airpump rebuild kit, failed to work (suspension wouldn't fill), I bought a $600 pump from Arnott, let's see if that fixes it. Once this is all done, I'll take some shots.

This truck really tests our patience and brand loyalty.

PS - I forgot to add that I installed the Winter Bridgestones this weekend.

cncmastr
How many miles are you at with that monster? It should drive near new after all of that!

Do you have the GT1 software to plug in a calibrate the suspension ride height? When I did my lower control arms even though I was cautious to re mount the ride height sensors in the same exact place mine levels were way off.

Also curious to hear more on your PS rack re-do, was it leaking?

Did you reset the SLS module with DIS after rebuilding/swapping the compressor? You need to to clear the faults

Alignment done. All units below are degrees.

Before:
LF camber -0.7
RF camber -0.5
LF toe -0.16
RF toe +0.34
Total toe +0.19
Steer ahead? -0.25
LR camber -1.1
RR camber -1.9
LR toe -0.12
RR toe -0.07
Total toe -0.18
Thrust angle -0.03

After:
LF camber -0.5
RF camber -0.4
LF toe +0.15
RF toe +0.13
Total toe +0.28
Steer ahead? +0.01
LR camber -1.2
RR camber -1.9
LR toe +0.02
RR toe +0.02
Total toe +0.04
Thrust angle 0.00

Said RR was maxed out at being able to get less than -1.9 camber. Not as close to 0.01 on the rear toe as I wanted, but overall I think the numbers moved in the right direction. I'll keep an eye on the wear as these are brand new winter tires.

Cheers.

.02 is good enough. The RR is always maxed out before the LR in my experience in regards to camber, but I've been maxed at -2.9 on RR and -1.9 on LR for over a year now, toe is set to .01 and the tires are wearing evenly.

the camber maxed out is due to the rear control arm and/or lower ball joint being worn out.

Looking into replacing the OE radiator with an all aluminium unit (coolant is seeping from the seal between the LS plastic part and aluminium core).

Only been able to find this......

Zionsville Autosport: BMW X5 Aluminum Radiator

Anyone seen it for a better price then $1000?