Thank you Riggodeaux it's been an awesome car so far my only regret is not getting one sooner! Thanks for the feed back on the headlights, I will most likely clean them up before I sell them. I've already found some angel projectors I plan to replace them with that look close enough to oem. Gotta have HIDS and projectors on my first bimmer :D

Another good product is Novus plastic cleaner and polish (use #2). It's even certified by Cessna & Boeing to do the same on aircraft windows. Very reasonable and it works. I've saved many headlights (and tail lights) over the years with this product. Also handing on flatscreen TV & PC screens.

New X5 owner
 

Hi, My name is Tony and I just bought an 2003 3.0 with a 5spd manual. I was looking for a BMW and happened upon this car with 96K on it. It is a basic model with no sunroof and manual heating and air cond. controls. No heated seats or any of that fancy stuff. It does have leather. So far, I have replaced all of the filters, all of the oils, and all of the cooling system components. Bought a set of tires and changed the spark plugs. It needs a radio upgrade because of the dead pixel issue. It also needs an overdrive for the transmission. I would love to put a 6 spd in it, but not sure if that can be swapped out easily. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for having a great site!
Tony

If you have the pixel problem, this can be repaired (it's a known problem, typically with the internal ribbon cable from the electronics to the display). I've sorted this out, easy to remove the head unit and send it off (there are some reliable guys who advertise in the BMW CCA Roundel magazine who offer this service).

Installing a 6 speed is possible BUT you'd also have to sort our different length drive shafts, transaxle & mounting and a few other items (I've converted auto BMW's to manual so am familiar with this). Feasabile, yes. Economical, no.

My X5 is a 2002 and also no sunroof, roof rails, DSP and other items. I had a cloth interior and upgraded to leather (and gained power, heated sport seats up front).

You mentioned all oils, this includes transmission, transfer case and both diff's? Did you replace the power steering oil (and reservoir to be able to change the filter)?

If you have the pixel problem, this can be repaired (it's a known problem, typically with the internal ribbon cable from the electronics to the display). I've sorted this out, easy to remove the head unit and send it off (there are some reliable guys who advertise in the BMW CCA Roundel magazine who offer this service).

Installing a 6 speed is possible BUT you'd also have to sort our different length drive shafts, transaxle & mounting and a few other items (I've converted auto BMW's to manual so am familiar with this). Feasabile, yes. Economical, no.

My X5 is a 2002 and also no sunroof, roof rails, DSP and other items. I had a cloth interior and upgraded to leather (and gained power, heated sport seats up front).

You mentioned all oils, this includes transmission, transfer case and both diff's? Did you replace the power steering oil (and reservoir to be able to change the filter)?

I did not change the power steering fluid or the brake fluid yet.... everything else is complete. I used Red Line oils, with the exception of the engine, that I used 5w-30 shell synthetic. I have had other BMWs and they all fall victim to the pixel issues. Thanks for the info on the transmission, I forgot about the driveshaft stuff, oh well, maybe my next one..
The radio face is actually broken, it still works, just cant see anything. I would really like to upgrade to a touch screen unit, with HD radio. All the Chinese units I see do not have HD radio.... Does anyone know if there has been success with installing a double din radio say from either pioneer or kenwood? I also suspect I will lose my avg MPG and temp. readouts on the dash....

You select oils as I do (Redline), I endorse your selection. Mike Miller (tech guy for the BMW CCA) highly recommends MTL in BMW manuals (with one specific exception) rather than ATF. I've tried it and agree.

For pixel issues, I found a guy in Budapest (I live in Switzerland so it works for me) who does fine work and has a line on good (used) displays. Great work and still fine with no issues after two years.

As Switzerland is now transitioning to DAB+ (digital standard) FM radio over the coming years, I am looking to change my head unit for a double DIN unit that will accommodate CD's (I don't have this in the trunk), AM/FM/DAB+ with RDS and a iPod port on the front. There is ONE unit (a specific Kenwood model) sold in Europe that meets my criteria. I've researched the installation brackets and found the best (guy who has one delivery point in Europe and another in New Jersey), the harness adapter and the interface module so you can still retain the steering wheel controls.

You would not loose the MPG or temp readouts on the instrument cluster.
Afterwards I will sell my BMW head unit, and preset the region codes and frequencies to the next user's requirements.

Good news about the computer display. Can you share with me the resource for the faceplate and wiring connectors?

Remember you need to do a few things: (A) select a head unit that meets your needs, (B) physically mount the unit, (C) wire it to the car and (D) provide a steering wheel interface to the non-BMW head unit.

A. Your head unit (double DIN) will be a personnal choice, I plan on buying the JVC (not Kenwood) DB60ATE based on the specifications / functions in my earlier post.

B. For the head unit mouting bracket and bezel, there is a guy on Ebay.de (naturally in Germany) who sells a VERY good product (better than Metra) for a very reasonable price. His seller ID is striker1980. He's not a cousin, brother-in-law or similar.

C. For the wiring adapter (ISO adapter in Europe), you'll find them easily (ebay or similar). Crutchfield for US people. Depending on the year of your E53, you would a specific one (BMW used one with round pins, another with flat pins and a third one (from memory) as well.

D. For the steering wheel control adapter, Axxess ASWC-1. I've found good reports that I works easily with the E53 CAN BUS and many brands of head units.

Remember you need to do a few things: (A) select a head unit that meets your needs, (B) physically mount the unit, (C) wire it to the car and (D) provide a steering wheel interface to the non-BMW head unit.

A. Your head unit (double DIN) will be a personal choice, I plan on buying the JVC (not Kenwood) DB60ATE based on my choice of specifications / functions (in my earlier post).

B. For the head unit mounting bracket and bezel, there is a guy on Ebay.de (naturally in Germany) who sells a VERY good product (better than Metra) for a very reasonable price. His seller ID is striker1980. He's not a cousin, brother-in-law or similar.

C. Depending on the year of your E53, you would a specific one (BMW used one with round pins, another with flat pins and a third one (from memory) as well. For this reason the one I would require may not be the correct one for your year E53. For the wiring adapter (ISO adapter in Europe), you'll find them easily (ebay or similar). Crutchfield for US people.

D. For the steering wheel control adapter, Axxess ASWC-1. I've found good reports that it works easily with the E53 CAN BUS and many brands of head units, a non-hassle installation and set-up procedure.

Count me in- After nearly 6 months of searching, I found and scooped up a topaz blue over black, '02 5 speed. Its got the sport and cold weather pkgs, and was the lowest mile example i came across with only 64,000 original miles. Just completed 1000 miles of holiday season driving and got 22 mpg... About to get the jump on preventative maint with replacing all fluids and a minor power steering hose leak.

Congrats and welcome to the Topaz club (I might be a little biased)! Mine has Sport, Premium package as well, an '03, and currently sits at 71,000 miles, I bought her 2 years ago this month, with 59,000. As Gregory and I have stated many times in this thread, use Redline fluids for the front and rear diffs (75w-90 gear oil), D4 ATF in the Transfer case (1 quart is needed), and Redline MTL in the manual transmission gearbox. If you are replacing the PS hoses, I would also spend the 30 bucks and replace the reservoir too in case of aging cracks and such, you can fill with any synthetic ATF you desire, I used Mobil 1 on mine.

Wish you best of luck with her and i'll add you to the list!

Thanks for heads up abt using redline fluids- I've been using them in my M3 since purchasing it and will definitely continue to do so with the X. Only 30 bucks for a PS reservoir? That's Honda parts cheap! For sure I'll add that to the list. Been waffling abt doing the entire cooling sys at my mileage with no symptoms (yet)- @rickybobby- have you done yours yet with your mileage?

Previous owner did the expansion tank, hoses, and Thermostat before I bought the X, so that is about 3-4 years ago. I've only had to top up my ET once so far, tank looks like its holding up (all parts were genuine), to be honest the PO might have done the water pump but i'm not sure, bc it makes no sense to me why he would do all the other parts and leave the pump in, he also had a 4.8 so I don't think he would have neglected the $100 pump. I will probably redo the system again at 100k just for peace of mind. BMW recommends full coolant flush every 4 years, but I haven't done it yet.

If you haven't had any of the parts ever replaced I would at least suggest the hoses, Tstat, and expansion tank.

New owner
 

First post on here, I just bought my 2002 X5 3.0 manual on Saturday. Got it with 98k miles, 1 previous owner. Car was in immaculate shape. Thermostat and vacuum hoses replaced at dealer before I purchased. I've had it for 5 days and yep, already an issue.

Driver's side door wouldn't open for me yesterday, from inside or out. I tried the coat hanger trick, couldn't get it to open, said screw this I've got a warranty for a month I'll use that. Drove it to work today by getting in the passenger seat and the driver's door unlocked when I pulled in to work. Still wouldn't open from the outside though. The handle itself on the outside looks to be askew by the tiniest or margins. Am going to try spraying some of that lubricant into the handle when I get home tonight.

Other than that it's been a blast to drive. Missed driving a stick. Had a 2012 Infiniti G37x before this, and although this car is more than 10 years old it's way more fun to drive.

My X5 came loaded, heated seats, sunroof, DVD system, etc. DVD system is useless though, it seems the monitor is broken. Looked it up on ebay, 300 bucks for a new screen? Pffft.

You can get a new Nav screen for about $180 if you so wanted to.

Is your door not unlocking? Would be a door actuator problem. If the handle isn't opening from the outside, but you can open from the inside, its the door handle carrier. Common issue.

Welcome!

Well yesterday I couldn't open it from inside or outside. This morning same story. Got in from passenger side and drove to work, parked car. Tried opening driver door and voila!, opened. Shut door. Couldn't re-open from outside. Will try opening from inside again when I leave work in an hour.

Xoutpost newbie
 

Hi all,

Newbie here to the Xoutpost, thought I would join this group since the X forum on the other site that I am a part of has little activity.

I recently reclaimed my E53 that left when my ex-wife did. It recently had broken down on her and she decided not to put anymore money into it. I couldn't stand for her to give it away to a stranger, so I bought it back from her. I've done a lot of maintenance on it so it was a no brained for me to jump back into ownership of it.

It's currently sitting on my lift with the transfer case pulled out, need to replace the chain that the shop quoted her nearly $3,000 to do. She has a couple of oil leaks, nothing major valve cover and oil filter housing that I'll need to do, a drivers window regulator. All in all not bad, and I got a great price on it, even tough this is the second time I paid for it. I try not to think of that :) A lot of you guys have low milage cream puffs, I'm proud to say mine has 207K and I expect many more miles out of her.

Besides the E53 I have an E28 535i, E34 525i and my son has an E9 Bavaria 3.0, E24 635csi, and another E34 525i. ALL are manuals!! As you can tell, I'm glad to have the X5 back in the stable with her other siblings.

Anyone else in the Indianapolis area? I'm up for group wrenching when someone is in need.

Has anybody replaced their clutch ? Mine is slipping and its original at about 130k miles... is that normal wear and tear ?

Additionally Im expecting it to be a 3-4 thousand dollar job (well who knows what else they find when they take it apart)... does that seem in the right ballpark ?

I've never had a clutch that needed to be replaced on any of my cars, I have 160k miles on the original clutch of my VR6 Jetta, and about 95k on my GLI when i sold it. The clutch does wear, but good manual transmission driving practice and driving habits will extend life significantly.

Not sure how many miles the PO's put on it, but its possible they may have beaten it up some over the years. I haven't priced it, but a clutch job is usually a grand in labor or so.

If you want a phenomenal German specialty shop to complete the job for you, and possibly give you an estimate i have a referral for you, probably the only repair shop I will let touch any of my cars in NJ. They are in the process of moving to Green Brook in the coming week or two, but currently in Washington, NJ.

^ I'm interested to hear what people say on this. 3-4 seems so high. I would think you could get a clutch for under $300. Of course pilot bearing, and resurfacing the fly wheel will add a little cost on. I don't know how much labor is though. I don't anticipate having to change mine in the near future but I am just curious if anyone on here has.

^hey RB while where on the subject of clutches what is the concensus on starting out in 2nd? I generally start in first if I am at a dead stop but if I am moving at all I'll start in 2nd. Occasionally I'll start in 2nd from a stop.

I cannot really complain about the stump puller 1st because it is very nice when your towing but for normal driving it is definitely kind of annoying and I don't want to prematurely wear out the clutch by starting in 2nd.

^hey RB while where on the subject of clutches what is the concensus on starting out in 2nd? I generally start in first if I am at a dead stop but if I am moving at all I'll start in 2nd. Occasionally I'll start in 2nd from a stop.

I cannot really complain about the stump puller 1st because it is very nice when your towing but for normal driving it is definitely kind of annoying and I don't want to prematurely wear out the clutch by starting in 2nd.

I start in second occasionally, most popular when doing a "rolling stop" when I'm not quite below 5 mph and won't be coming to a complete stop. The point is to not drop the hammer on the clutch when starting in 2nd, I do a little bit of clutch slip for smooth engagement.

Like I mentioned above, its all about how you engage the clutch, how often you slip it, if the hydraulic fluid is regularly changed, etc. If you come to a complete stop and always start in 2nd gear than over a long term i could see it wearing the clutch some. The point is to be in the proper gear for your engine speed, i.e. not downshifting to 1st gear at 15 mph LOL

Dunno about 'consensus', but I do easy 2nd gear starts regularly: from any kind of slight downhill start, or a not fully stopped situ where I know I don't need first to get back up through the gears.

Am careful of/lightfooted on clutch...have not burned out a clutch since I was drag racing in the mid '60s.

Our '01 3.0 5 speed has ~94k miles and other than a bit of 'noise' when parking in garage and releasing clutch, it operates well. I rarely do 2nd gear starts from a dead stop...
GL, mD

Parts are $300, not sure if the kit includes a new flywheel though, probably doesn't.

Home Page Search SiteSearch 21217528208 ES#41161 Clutch Kit - 21217528208


If anyone wants a shop reference for a clutch job in Jersey, pm me. The guys literally rebuild transmissions, install limited slip diffs, and do clutch jobs all day long, one of the owners is a certified Mercedes Black Series tech.

Clutches / flywheels / starting in 2nd
 

Hi all,

3-4K sounds high - I do most of my own work but a clutch swap was too much a few years ago for my old M3 (E36 3.0L inline 6, so should be comparable) - I had my trusted indy install a UUC lightweight flywheel and an M5 clutch and the total for the job (and parts) was around 3, so stock parts ought to be less. Sounds like you're in NJ?, but if not and you're in MD I'd be happy to direct you to my trusted guy.

As for that stump pulling 1st - I'm beginning to master the gentle pull away from 1st but I only use it when at a complete stop and not on a downhill, otherwise I always do a gentle start in 2nd (unless running from the law or gun toting Floridians). ;)

Attachment 61968Attachment 61969Attachment 61970Attachment 61971

If I could upload the video I have of my X5 pulling out not 1 tree stump but 3 I would.
New tires are going on next week for snow season. Cooper HT Plus 285/50/20

I LOVE MY X5, It does everything and then some.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is quite the fat tire for 20s, is your speedo/transfer case ok with the increased rolling diameter?

And you definitely are the most utilitarian of us in this thread, pulling stumps like a boss! And 286k to boot, really inspiring to me, I have 215k less than you so I'm looking forward to many more years! Very partial to your color too <3 Topaz

Thank you Ricky Bobby, I have had these same tires for the last 70,000 miles (give or take a few miles) As all X5 have their camber issues and towing does not help I finally need new tires. These Coopers are non directional. So I cross rotate and every other direction I could rotate. As far as hard on the trans or car it's self. They have been fine so far. Advice to everyone with an X5. Oil and Gas is cheaper than buying a replacement Engine, Differential or Transmission. So with that said use Super Unleaded and Get those fluids changed often DO NOT go by BMW recommendations. I would have never got to the mileage I have with BMW recommendations of 15,000 mile Oil changes and 100,000 mile or Life Time Oil in the diff and Trans.


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A new flywheel would add a lot to the price, especially a dual-mass. ECS has two of them listed for the e53, one at $850 and another at $550. Home Page Search SiteSearch 21217512474 - ECS Tuning Inc

I would think it'd be a rare case where the flywheel would have to be replaced though; if it came to that, I'd be tempted to go with the single-mass conversion kit. Very tempted, when the whole kit with pressure plate, clutch, flywheel & hardware costs just a tad more than the cheaper dual-mass option. I wonder how much that flywheel weighs though. Looks massive compared to the 14 pounder I bought for my M20 e28.

Home Page Search SiteSearch 21217512474 ES#2702807 Single Mass Flywheel Conversion Kit - 52401220

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/476065_x600.jpg

I figured as much on the dual mass flywheel. If it needed servicing with the clutch I would imagine it would he replaced at the same time and BMW would include it in their clutch kits.

Single mass conversion looks nice, don't they tend to have more chatter though? Either way it looks like the kit is E46 fitment anyway.

Mods why is this thread not a sticky like the 4.6/4.8 thread?

They say the dual-mass is smoother on launch, but I suppose it depends a lot on the driver, and other factors. This e53 is the first vehicle I've owned with a dual-mass FW, and until I pitched the CDV my launches and shifts in it were pathetically not-smooth.

Even though that conversion kit is spec for the e46 it should fit the e53 as well; both models use the same flywheel, clutch plate, throwout bearing, etc... No number for the pressure plate, but I can't imagine the kit wouldn't work. A 3.0L M54 is a 3.0L M54 regardless of the wrapper it's in.

RealOEM.com * Part Cross-reference
RealOEM.com * Part Cross-reference
RealOEM.com * Part Cross-reference

The transmissions are the same too, right?

I stand corrected and thanks for the cross reference Dave, looks like the Single Mass conversion kit would work for someone needing a clutch job!

For what its worth, if I ever needed a clutch job on my 3.0, I wouldn't hesitate to use the LUK dual-mass flywheel you linked from ECS for $550, along with the $300 clutch disc kit from BMW. I'm 99% sure that LUK is the OEM for our flywheels and clutch parts, so I'm sure the savings direct from LUK are in the fact that its their branded part and not in BMW packaging (similar to Lemfoerder and Genuine BMW for susp parts).


Although if one were to want to save about $300 in parts, the Single Mass conversion kit is a nice option!

The transmissions are different because of the transfer case attachment. The cross reference check on the trans only comes up with the X5. But I wonder if the manual transmissions for the e46 330Xi would work... I've never seen the underside of one of them in person, so :dunno:

I was not aware the our X's had dual mass flywheels. Correct me if i am wrong but this seems like a big performance compromise to add some comfort for people who don't know how to feather a clutch well? I have to imagine that extra weight on the DMF is noticeable. As we all know mass on rotating bodies exponentialy effects their moment of inertia.

BTW I am thinking about doing the CDV on mine but I am just sort of wondering if it is that noticeable. It seems like most on here have done it. Opinions?

I was not aware the our X's had dual mass flywheels. Correct me if i am wrong but this seems like a big performance compromise to add some comfort for people who don't know how to feather a clutch well? I have to imagine that extra weight on the DMF is noticeable. As we all know mass on rotating bodies exponentialy effects their moment of inertia.

BTW I am thinking about doing the CDV on mine but I am just sort of wondering if it is that noticeable. It seems like most on here have done it. Opinions?

Do it! One of the best cost vs enjoyment mods that you can do...considerable difference in clutch engagement response. If mine didn't already have it done when I bought, it would have been at the top of my mod list.

Just do it, I never drove with one in but mine drives so nice I can imagine its a big difference. Bleed the clutch after you're done too.

If you want instructions, on page 36 of this thread:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...thread-36.html

Yes, do it (the CDV delete.) It's an easy mod and makes a huge difference; I can't understand why BMW did it in the first place. It makes the clutch action very unnatural. With it gone, the clutch works as it should. The CDV isn't really a valve at all, it's just a flow restrictor. There is an orifice inside the CDV that creates a bottleneck for the flow of the hydraulic fluid. The diameter of the pipe is reduced considerably, which just slows movement of the clutch. I want to have the clutch moving when my foot moves the clutch pedal, not after.

Many people buy the doodad that replaces the CDV, but it really isn't necessary; one end of the CDV threads into the slave cylinder, and the hydraulic line fitting threads into the other. With the CDV out of the way, the hydraulic line fitting just threads into the body of the slave. I had a bit of a time getting things lined up properly, and ended up removing the slave to get it done, but that wasn't much of a problem at all.

See my post in the other thread on SSK/CDV for my impression of the value of the CDV delete, and a direct comparison by an experienced bimmer shift guy of the difference. You can use UUC's [or others'] replacement valve, or not. Do the CDV immediately, regardless of whether you spring for the SSK of have clutch repairs pending. Do bleed the clutch, refill with brake fluid [UUC used Motul 600, I was charged for .5 liter]

E46 transfer case
 

I can't say for certain about the 330XI, but the 325XI that we have has a NV124 transfer case and the attachment points look to be different then the NV125. I don't know if the NV 124 case would hold up to the demands of an E53 vs the E46 for which it was intended. Even if it would, you would probably have to relocate your support mount and modify front and rear prop shafts to the new lengths. A lot of work to change fly wheels.
Or, the difference could be made up if the transmission rear housing case could be modified to bolt up to a S5D 320Z (E46 manual) off of a S5D 280Z (E53 manual). Of course the only benefit of that would be if the length of both transmissions were the same that way you could keep the NV125 and current prop shafts.
These examples are based on and early E53, if you have a late model the transmission maybe different.

They did it to reduce driveline shock from people letting the clutch out too quickly. It doesn't change when the clutch moves, just how fast it moves, and thus the elapsed time until engagement.

We had a 325xi. I understood that the NV124 and NV125 were essentially the same transfer case, except that the 125 has a chain drive instead of a gear drive. That has to do with the greater offset to the front driveshaft (higher vehicle). That makes them not interchangeable. If BMW had been able to make the front driveshaft work on the E53 with the NV124, they wouldn't have needed to develop the NV125.

Just yanked my cdv out. Def a very noticeable change / improvement. It gives a tighter more precise feel and I noticed less peddle pressure presumable due to the less resistance in the line. I can notice a tighter engagement in all shifts but I notice that it goes into the gate from 2 into 3 more easily and, as said, most noticeable is 1 to 2. I thought it was the gearing or that I just wasnt used to the vehicle enough but getting a smooth shift from 1 to 2 was all but impossible with the cdv on now it is way way easier and makes 1st gear actually useable. As far as my little diy on this:

Tools - 7mm, 11mm, 13mm, and 14mm wrenches, vise grip, one man brake bleeder

-First I topped of the clutch / brake reservoir.
-Then I picnched the hose with the vise grip (It should go without saying not to apply to much force and damage the hose - less is more)
-Next I opened the bleeder using the 7mm wrench (at this point this is mostly just to ensure that it will open)
-Next up I unscrewd the brake line from the cdv using the 11mm wrench.
-Then I unscrewed the CDV from the slave cylinder using the 14mm wrench.
-Now I removed the lower 13mm nut that holds the slave cylinder on (this was to make it easier to align the brake lines threads into the slave.)
-The brake line is spooled up so it is very easy to bend some to make up the distance of the cdv. So after bending a little I then threaded and tightened it in place and then re-tightened the 13mm nut.
-next I hooked the 1 man bleeder up to the bleeder and pulled the vice grip off. The fluid flowed freely into the line and contained no bubbles so I just tightened the bleeder back up and reinstalled the rubber cap. Finally checked the reservoir again and that was it!

All in all in all it was about 20-30 min with maybe 10 min under the vehicle. I probably wouldn't have put this off so long if I didn't hate brake fluid and melting snow on cars so much but whatever. It was a good opportunity to get a look at what the SSK will take. That shift linkage is really nestled away up there!!

Guys if any of you are on the fence about the UUC Evo3 short shifter, until 1/27 you can order it for 10% off and free shipping to the lower 48. Comes in at $319 shipped for me.

BMW CATALOG / Short Shifter Kits (SSK) and DSSRs

UUC SSK Install time?
 

Has anyone installed this yet? How long did it take and how big PITA? UUC quoted 6 hours for them to do it in their shop so it makes me a bit nervous about DIY time without a lift, experience, etc.

UUC installed mine a couple weeks ago; we are awaiting a report from a poster here who has installed the SSK in other bimmers, but should have his X5 version soon. As best I recall, he puthis expected install time at less than that. You can look at install tips for other bimmer models on the UUC website and, especially, the good E36 tech guidance for the install at Pelican Parts. I expect it really depends on your mechanical skills and flexibility [if you don't have access to a lift] from a creeper - and having small, flexible hands to do the one 'blind' clip fit. That said, if you've never done this before, it could take several hours. Personally, I always underestimate how much time it actually takes me to do anything on a car .....

Just ordered mine, thanks for the heads up rb that made me pull the trigger haha. They should give you a commission.

I'll put it in as soon as they get it to my door! The only thing that I see that makes this any different than doing a uuc short shifter in an any other similar vintage bmw's is that we have two of those fun clips to undue blind. Other than that it has more clearance and looks like it shouldn't be to big of a deal. Of course I'll let you guys know how it goes.

I'm assuming the "you" in this post is "me," and not Ricky Bobby, who is drafting on me like he was Kyle Laughton, Jr. :). Make sure you take pictures!

he is drafting you but I was saying the heads up on the discount and free shipping made me pull the trigger. I'm bad at taking pictures when i am trying to do work but I will have to slow down and get some for this. I got some questions regarding appurtenances to refresh that I am posting in the thread you started on this. LMK what you think.

From my discussion with UUC Rob, I think the gearshift rod joint [12 in the realoem diagram, part no. 25117580281 for an '06] is the most likely refresh part outside the kit, for which you might want to have an extra clip [11] on hand. The rod joint in mine was fine, didn't need replacing.

Okay I think I will probably order the rod joint and clip like you said than. With the angle that these come down at I could definitely see the rod joint wearing out quicker anyways. The other parts (2 and 5) probably don't ever have much of a load on them and I guess the fact that ecs doesn't stock at there warehouse probably says something as well.

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/l/u/196.png

Yep, the oval bushing [2] was a failure point in earlier bimmers because there was one, not a two bushing yoke like now on ours' - that's why you see a replacement delrin bushing for older bimmers in earlier UUC SSKs. I believe the SSK also replaces [7] and includes at least one clip [11]. You might pm Greg in Switzerland for his thoughts.

No problem man I'm glad I helped you pull the trigger, I'm still in full on recession of 2009 mode, I basically NEVER buy anything without a discount or coupon nowadays, as they are so readily available, why should i ever buy something full price/not on sale? Lol!

Going to order mine over the weekend as well, I asked my CEO to help me choose whether to get Titan interior trims or this short shifter, she said she really enjoys the wood on the interior of the X, and it's not bothering me too much at the moment so I'm pulling the trigger on the short shifter. Take an already rare X (3 pedals) and add an ever rarer mod and we are quite the exclusive crowd here now lol!

Folks - has anyone had both 5 and 6 speed that could offer direct experience of comparison or any specific pros/cons? I currently have a 6 speed and have opportunity to pick up a much lower mileage 5 speed. Personally, I find the odd ratios in the 6 to be a pain - I am rarely comfortable to start in second unless it is from a slow roll or downhill.

I have driven a 6 spd briefly...that 6th gear is like an Ahhhhh, at cruising speed, imo.

Fwiw, the 5 spds have the identical gear ratios, 1 through 5, and same rear diff ratio.

You will learn to like the 2nd gear starts in a 5 spd, too, but you will miss the lowered RPMs at any speed above 60.
GL, mD

Ratios
 

Thanks - I guess I assumed the rations were different and they split the difference on bottom and top to end up with the stump pulling 1st so good to know that is not the case.

+2 on what MD said. I've owned both the 5 and 6 speed. Same ratios. A couple suggestions. If you haven't pulled the clutch delay valve out yet, do so. It takes some of the akwardness out of the shifting equation. *My next suggestion is not for the faint of heart. You can swap your differentials out in favor of 3.64 ratios. My wife's manual X3 has this ratio, and is considerably better in my opinion. Differentials can be sourced on the cheap from '01-9/03 e53 4.4i. I will be doing mine later this year.

I'd second what Green Dragon said; 1st gear became much less of a problem after I did the Clutch Delay Valve delete, and even launching in 2nd is easier. It's a super easy mod and makes a huge difference in drivability with these beasts.

I've considered doing the diff swap to get a top gear ratio better suited for highway driving, but I think I'd miss that low gear when towing. Maybe what I need to do is shop around for a 6-speed to get the the higher road gear. Too bad there's no such thing as a two-speed transfer case for these things... I'm sure modifying a transfer case from another vehicle would be pretty high on the difficulty scale.

Looking forward to my UUC short shifter. I decided to also go for a Magnaflow Xpipe/resonator delete (stock mufflers) for a slight change of tone but not much change of volume.

Might add the afe intake in a couple months too, per Green Dragon with his old setup (shark injector tune, magnaflow mufflers and afe intake) he saw more than a couple mpg increase.

^I cannot wait for my shifter to come in !! I spent friday modding my nav so it has a custom splash screen and skyline along with updatd firmware. Now I just need the new maps. It'll feel a lot like mine when I have the new shifter!

If any of you guys need help with nav modding let me know. It is super easy and really rewarding. I'm going to start a come to jesus thread on the nav sub forum because that place is a joke in the DIY department. It is literally the online equivalent of walking into your IT department where all the guys like to have this feeling of exclusivity that prevents them from actually helping normal people. They have a ridiculous wealth of knowledge but its like they assume everyone understands basic programming. The diy threads totally skip the basics and jump into advanced. Also it never really explains what half the things are (poison, navtweak, navspeak, splashes, etc.)

Updated the registry with some new members (Bianca and GRBE53), mods make this a sticky PLEASE so its easier for me to update and we can keep M/T chit chat in one thread!

Ditto that, make this a sticky ASAP! RB, I nominate bimmerm3inGA for honorary membership in the registry - we'll have him in a stickshift 3.0L E53 soon enough, and needs his input!

BTW RB, what is our head-count up to in the registry?

As of today we are at 58 registered, I'm sure there are more on Xoutpost though. Some don't post often, might not put down they have an M/T in their signature, or don't have an intro thread where we can remark the M/T on their X, etc.

If I find someone new posting with an M/T I try to update even if they don't post here, but I'm sure I've missed some through the cracks. Would be easier to update if a sticky (I'm not sure how often the mods come through the forums, for the most part I do notice that mostly we are allowed to "police ourselves", scary, I know!)

As you know that the mobile phone signal jammer can cut off the signals of the mobile phones and soon make it impossible to make phone calls or send messages. In this way when you need the peaceful condition and want to stay in it, you can just use the best cell phone jammer to help you achieve your goal. And now as the technology develops with high speed the advanced 4G jammer has come into the market and are well welcomed by the group of people who need the jammer product.

DamionLiu go on picnic why don't you!

I like D-Liu's post time. If I recall my zulu times from my military days, he posted around mid-afternoon in mainland China .... and every manual transmission shifter needs a mobile phone signal jammer!

Add me to the list. I bought this 2004 white 6sp a couple years ago for my gf with 104000 on it. Maybe paid a bit too much (14000) but we do love it. It now has 122000 miles. Since we bought it I've found some issues with it:
- secondary air pump failure (cel)- not worried about it
- burns lots of oil. Thinking this is from the ccv being bad. I was going to replace it but then found out how much work it is and decided to delete it and install a catch can. Also the hose from the crankcase is broken so I think I'm loosing vacuum which could be a cause for burning oil. Sound right?
- clips for the door weather stripping broken. Haven't found a source for these.
- deleted the cdv about a year ago and that made shifting soo much better
- sometimes on a very cold morning it idles rough and dies. I'm thinking this might have to do with my ccv issues. Condensation freezing on the maf maybe?
- intermittent wiper function doesn't seem to work properly

Other than all that everything else works great. The super low first gear is annoying though and I've been trying to figure out a solution. I've read this whole thread and I've gathered that I could swap my diffs to get higher gearing but what about just getting taller tires? I just bought some 18" rims for it and was thinking of putting 265/60r18 on it which would be 1.5" taller and almost an inch wider. Seems like this would be a easier/cheaper solution than swapping out diffs to me,no? I would like a bit more rubber on the road anyway. And it might make the odometer more accurate. Usually a car's odo will read a bit faster than reality. Has anyone tried this? I'm suspecting Happy with the supercharger has taller tires and that's why he doesn't mind the low 1st. Or has any one figured out if you can easily install a x3 or a 530xi 6sp in it to get normal ratios? Thanks for everybody's input and very appreciative to have this resource.

Don't put tall ass tires in an attempt to correct the 4.10 gearing, thats a ghetto ass redneck fix. Keep your 255/55/18 or at least the proper rolling aspect ratio diameter. Save your transfer case and your speedometer for that matter.

If you want to get rid of the 4.10 gearing, just get a 4.4 front and rear differential as they will bolt right in to your manual X, and enjoy 3.64 gear ratios. They are readily available on junked X5's, on ebay etc. Change the driveline fluids afterwards as well, with Redline 75W-90 gear oil in the diffs and proper Xdrive fluid in the transfer case.

For weatherstrip clamos your welcome:

BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Search SiteSearch Weatherstrip - 51717006757 - Weatherstrip Mounting Clip - ES#128467

And yes if you ghetto rigged your CCV system and have a broken valve cover hose you are losing oil out of it. Take off the catch can, replace your CCV with updated cold weather parts and the cold climate dipstick tube according to this PDF, and your X should run proper again, with no oil consumption:

http://chrisparente.com/Images/530/CCV-SIB110803.pdf

Idling rough and then dies, I wouldn't think that is condensation in the MAF at all. Probably your vaccuum leak is making the idle rough (again, fix your CCV system properly and remove ghetto catch can fix), I would also check your spark plugs at 122k, your DISA valve, and your lower intake elbow as they do crack and cause vaccuum leaks.

Wipers I can't help you with but the rest I hope I did. Welcome and I hope you follow the suggestions to fix the X5 properly!

Yes, not confirmed, but I think you could use an X3 gearbox but it only address half the equation. The X3 also uses 3.64 ratio diffs. Not sure about the 530 xdrive, but my guess is yes once again.

It might be 6's, but I think the diff swaps would be easier and cost effective, and that is the route I'm going first. But you are right on in addressing the the actual gearing in the transmission. If you want to look into it and share with the group your findings, I'd be stoked. I do know from driving my wife's Manual X3, the gearing is much better. The ratios are massaged to be more car like and less truck like. 1st gear is still on the revy side but better.

I'm gonna have to go look up the specs on the 330xi now...........oh and welcome to the 3 pedal clan!

Hey Thanks a lot Ricky Bobby for your advice and links. I think that is the clip I need but it's weird, there are 3 different kinds on the same strip on the bottom of the driver side door. I'm guessing it has broken and been repaired before.

The catch can I haven't actually installed yet so right now it has a broken hose right where the crankcase vents to the ccv valve and im sure the actual ccv valve needs replacing as we live in a cold climate and my GF drives in short spurts as did the previous owner. But I'm really not wanting to get into that job. Have you done it? I've been reading a lot about the catch can and I see a lot of benefits to it, one being you don't have to mess with that hard to get to ccv valve that will prob fail again. I did check the plugs and they do look like they need replacing. Ordered them yesterday. I read a little about the disa valve, I'll have to look more into it.

In defense of the larger tires, I don't really see what the prob would be to go taller. I admit 1.5" might be a bit too much but 1" would be totally reasonable. Most people prob wouldn't even notice by looks. I have lots of experience with this. My '06 330i I put a size taller and I love the effect:
-higher quality ride as I have sport rims (low profile), cant remember exact size
-speedometer is actually spot on now
-looks better
-opens up the gears (taller gearing), stay in gear longer
-possibly better mpg on highway

Sure it robs a bit of power but barely noticeable on my 255hp 330i.

I also have 4 lifted trucks all with larger tire size. (redneck) There are lots of reasons to do this depending on what you use the vehicle for. And for the most part it is for utilitarian reasons, not so much for looks in my case. We live in Colorado and get a good amount of snow. Taller/wider tires are a huge advantage in sketchy conditions. I'm definetly going up in size somewhat, just not sure how much. I've never been disappointed with the effects and never had any probs with higher wear on components even with superchargers on my toyotas. I really don't think a size up would make an x5 look ghetto. Cooler looking in my opinion. What do you think of this truck?
http://mostwantedtoday.com/wp-conten...pse-BMW-X5.jpg

Thanks Green Dragon, I can't wait to hear how the 3.64 diffs effect that first gear. These 3.0's are not super powerful for these trucks so I'm a tad worried about loss of torque with higher gearing in the diffs/taller tires. probably fine though. Maybe I'll be inspired to do some performance mods. Do you think the AFE intake helped? I'd be willing to pay $250 if it was at all noticeable. Maybe some exhaust mods. Funny how I'm all into modding my GF BMW, but mine I'm leaving alone. Her car needs it. Mine is already awesome stock.

CCV parts are on my workbench to be installed just waiting for a warmer weekend to take my time in the garage, it's supposedly not a fun job but doable if handy. As for the tires I guess you could go taller, I'm just not a fan of increasing the overall rolling diameter although I'm sure some do it with no problems.

I installed the afe intake last week as I got a deal for 120 from a member who sold his X5. I feel its a bit peppier in higher rpm and a worthwhile mod. With the Pro Dry S filter it's non oiled and cleanable with the cleaning kit from AFE which I bought on eBay for 10 bucks. Will be the last filter I'll ever need on my X!

There is an auction on eBay for the AFE intake for 237 or best offer. You could prob offer 200 and get it, would be worthwhile at that price in my opinion, I clean my filter once a year so I like the reusable and washable filter on it.

Welcome to Xoutpost Rohin.

if you're interested in winter wheels, check out my post:

http://www.xoutpost.com/classifieds/...les-tires.html

Ricky, I checked out that CAI on eBay. Didn't get it for $215 but even at 237 seems like a good deal. I'll pick one up soon. I'm also waiting for some warm weather to do all the work one the x5. Very excited to finally get it in great shape and hopefully stop burning oil. Good luck with that ccv replacement. I've been reading on several forums it is a bear. I guess some guys could do it without taking the intake manifold off but some said it was easier to just get it out of the way. Let us know how it goes, please.

Ldiggs I just bought a set of 18" 58 style rims on craigslist for $260. Plan on getting some new all seasons soon. I used to be into swapping wheels for seasons but not anymore. If I had only one or two cars to maintain maybe, but it is now 6. Thanks though.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey Ricky
In my registry you noted I have a 2002 when I actually have a 2001. Unless you know something I don't.

I had a mt e53 moment this morning. Last time I went to Germany I rented an a4 and did some spirited driving on the autobahn. When I got home I was dissapointed by my automatic e46 and missed shifting. This was why I went on the hunt for the mt e53. So I got back from another vaca trip to Europe / Germany last night. I had rented a c class benz to take to Luxembourg and I got it up to 130mph on an unlimited stretch of the autobahn (would have gone faster but it was dark and rainy - if you've ever driven the autobahn you'll know that that the no limit portions are remote and hence unlit). So the moment came this morning when, contrary to the last time, the e53 was fun to drive and still feels tight and smooth even compared to a brand new c class. So hard to believe it is an suv and I greatly prefer the interior feel of it.

I'm with you, mcurcio1989. Our 3-pedal E53s may have their issues [like all vehicles], especially after 8+ years on the road, but when running properly, they are unusual and pretty special. We should trademark "E53 Manual Moments."

I agree also that these are really special vehicles. About a week ago I went through a point where I was tired of little things going wrong with it and I was thinking about selling it before something big goes wrong. I'm used to toyotas so I was thinking about getting an older 4runner to replace it. (It's my girlfriends car) Toyotas almost never break and I've been working on them my whole life. But after reading the forums and getting a game plan to get it back in shape, we decided to keep it. It runs fine it just burns a lot of oil. What luxury awd suv has a manual other than these older X5s? And they look so cool. Subaru foresters are ugly and not as refined. The mercedes little suv looks cool but I don't think they have manuals. Anyway awesome vehicle and Im planning on keeping it for a long time.

My bad, it was a guess bc I know the wood trim lower steering wheel was an 01-02 only thing, you never posted what year so i guessed, I will correct!

And Riggo, the way I see it, a third of posts on here are about peoples auto trans's needing rebuild, clunking and blowing up etc, the fact that my trans will outlive my vehicle probably speaks volumes to me and thats why I will always drive a stick!

RickyBobby, for almost 20 yrs every car I drove after my very first car which was an automatic, has had a manual transmission. & the auto industry is rapidly killing off true three pedal manuals replacing them with these dual clutch multi wet plate systems (if thas the correct term). They are admittedly faster shifting than we humans could ever manage but they steal the joy of the connection between man and machine.

I only started driving an "automatic" again when I was no longer abl2 find a vehicle I'd enjoy driving with a manual transmission ��

My first post!
Manual x5 -01 from Sweden here.
For as long as I can remeber, getting overtaken by another car is the single worst thing with driving. Except when the car that is overtaking you is an e53 with fat rear tyres and those wierd looking exhaust pipes ;)

So last year my girlfriend started working an hour from our home I lended her the car I had then ( a old opel astra) so she did not have to use public transport.

I imidiatley started to look for another car to myself i places like the mazda rx8, that did not worked out at all.
Then I came to the conclusion that if I could go around i an x5 and bring joy to other drivers by overtaking them it would make me happy to :)

So now I´m an happy e53 owner doing my duty. I would´t say the e53 is the best car I ever had but it is the most diverse car I ever owned. I think there is not one section where the e53s performance is not other than excellet. And it´s a manual to;)

Take care!

Welcome, Degen. Add the details of your E53 to your signature and post a picture, so we can enjoy it, too!

Thank you and here are som pictures.https://kbvinq.by3301.livefilestore....002.jpg?psid=1
https://kbwr1w.bay.livefilestore.com...003.jpg?psid=1

Nice X! Welcome to the best thread, on the best X Series forum on the planet. Fun projects to come.

Degen I will post your name, welcome and awesome to see another European member here! I like your exhaust tips, are they just tips or did you put a full exhaust on yours?

And the Caddy 'pickup' conversion next to it is certainly a conversation starter .... Those look like a previous owner upgraded the 2001 [3.0L?] to wider 19 or 20" wheels, too.

Check me in....
 

Got it in my head after a family ski trip a few weeks back that my wife needed an X to replace her 325 e46 wag. 2 kids and all the stuff that goes with them was a tight fit.

Just arrived home from Ohio with this beast 94k 2005. 900 easy miles, got about 22 mpg averaging 78mph. Thermostat must be stuck open as she is only getting to 1/4 temp. I bet I would have done even better at proper temp. Lost the temp plate somewhere along the way and made this cardboard one in PA....no static from the troopers.

I am going to take the wagon and sell the e36m. Looking forward to many years with the X and on this forum.

Anyone know the car? Vin end lb09843 one owner from Cincinnati OH.

Brad

pictures
 

Pics

Facelifted sport package awesome find!

Brad, nice ride. Kalahari, sport, six- speed, on black. Good find! With proper working thermostat, you should get 24 mph no problem on the open road.

I want your 36///M. Scratch that. NEED your e36///M. Not going to happen for a few years yet. Wife put a kibosh on that. :rolleyes:

Thanks fellas, I am lucky to have found one for sure. The price seemed right too. 11,800 and everything works! I do need to do brakes but thats minor. Tow hitch to go on soon.

Any way to tell if the sunroof has been upgraded? It works fine so i am hoping the PO did it.

The M is a fun car. Its a sedan so its fairly functional too.

Dragon, how do you like the SSK? I think that will be my first upgrade.

Green Dragon is the wrong guy to ask about the SSK; he's in the middle of creating the Utah techie hillbilly version :). Look for my thread on the SSK and CDV, lots of input from many about this particular improvement. Thumbs' Up from me .... If its in as good a shape as it appears, you made a great deal! If its your 'stat,and not just the gauge, I see replacing the 'stat [an easy DIY, as best I recall], along with related coolant service, as first on your list, along with the brakes. Welcome to the 3-pedal E53 brotherhood!

Ah thank you, I just tossed it on a lift and it is indeed very clean underneith too. I am pleasantly suprised. It does still have the delay valve. That will be the first to go. The thermostats are a real easy fix. Pop the fan out, unbolt it, and toss the new one in. Will do the waterpump at the same time since i have to drain the coolant anyways. I will look for your post.

Any other good options besides the UUC?

UUC SSK is definitely worth the money, I have it and love it, UUC runs coupon specials all the time from 10-15% off too. Add a ZHP shift knob and it is amazing. Delete your CDV for free and flush the clutch and brakes with fresh fluid first though!

Several posters here have installed the UUC SSK since it came on the market early this year. It appears to be the only option, unless you, like Green Dragon, are prepared to do extensive mods to other kits. I had it installed at UUC, which is nearby, which was expensive, but worth it to me [no lift, cold weather, lazy, etc.]. RB struggled with the install - you'll see it all in the thread I started. Also recommended: change the transmission, differential, and transfer case fluids [OEM BMW only in the transfer case; I used and like Redline products in the diffs/tranny, with Lubro Moly antifriction additives. Smart to put magnetic drain plugs in while you are at it. The 3.0L/manual/post facelift E53s, 2004-06, is one sweet ride, you appear to be one of the lucky/smart ones who found a low mileage version at a great price. For comparison, mine, an 06 with 81k at purchase, set me back $18k - although that was with $4k [retail] worth of service from the seller, a BMW 'M' specialty shop outside Cincy [Enthusiast Auto Group]: tires, rear brakes, gaskets, fan, etc. See my first couple of posts for pix. That is/was the top of the market.

If you want to sell/trade your E36 M, I suggest you view Enthusiasts website . . .

Thank you, I do plan on doing all the fluids including PS as well. I agree with you on the redline. I am thinking of trying to extend the rod below the ball on the shifter. My stock unit is really tight so maybe i can save a few bucks with the modification. Any idea how much longer the UUC lower pivot is then the stock unit?

I did get lucky on the price. I think the dealer was having trouble selling and didnt have it advertised well. It is a one owner car. If i didnt just drive it 900 miles i would still be leary.

Really funny you mention Enthusast Auto. Is that the place run by the two brothers maybe one named Todd? If it is, about 6 or 7 years back I flew out there to buy an E30 M. They had lots of pictures and we talked on the phone several times. I flew there with my wife to check it out, one way tickets. They told me the car had no paint work other than bumpers. When i got there the car had tons of paintwork, some rust, and a patched oil pan. Needless to say i didnt purchase it and was pretty angry at the situation. Like you i was willing to pay their premium for the car. It was back when they first opened so things have probally tightened up a bit. I really wanted to like the guys, they had great cars and were about my age. They returned my deposit and We found a fight home the next day.

I don't know if its the same place; like you, I flew in based on posted website pictures and their report of work done and found my X5 to be exactly as advertised, with all needed repairs done to get it in top condition. I toured their facility and a separate storage building where they had a couple of beautiful E28 Ms, among others. If I were in the market for a properly prepared M, I would check them out. Just north of Cincy, near where its northern interstate bypass meets I-75.

As for the SSK - do look at Green Dragon's posts, maybe PM him, as he has done recent mods beyond a UUC SSK install, and can best address your questions.

Hmm sounds like it might be a diffrerent place. I dont remember them having a separate facility. Either way I am glad it worked out for you.

I ended up getting an M a few months after within 50 miles from me. Funny how things can work out!

I will check out his post. Thanks for that.

Mine is an 2001 3.0i converted to 6 speed manual.

Awesome

conversion from 5 to 6 speed
 

How did you do this? Use 6 speed transmission and front / rear drive shafts but original transfer case (NV125)?

You need to use the xdrive transfer case and driveshafts.

So this is mostly bolt up BUT how you do control the xDrive solenoid on that transfer case with a pre-xDrive car?

Sarek, don't tease us. As Gregory's polite questions indicate, there is probably significant interest here in the 'conversion to manual' process, give the age of our vehicles and the failure rate in auto trannies. Please post here, or as a separate post, your process for converting a pre X-drive auto to an X-drive/six speed [as in a 2004-06 3.0L manual, like mine ...... though it looks like you did significant suspension mods, too.

You dont need to worry about the xdrive motor unless you really want to. In my case, I locked the transfer case motor to full 50 50 locked. Obviously only good for off road. If you leave the motor as is, it will function similar to your current transfer case. Just leave the motor installed with nothing plugged in. It does not throw any faults or cause any problems. You could go crazy and try to retrofit the transfer case module, however I havent looked into that. Probably a pain to get working.

I have an X drive transfer case and front and rear driveshafts available if anybody is interested

if there's enough interest in doing this type of conversion I really don't mind making a post about it. Sourcing the parts is about the most difficult part of it

Looks bitchin man!!

Found this while looking into a pedal box. These guys are pretty damn cool. Save The Manuals! STORE

In!
2003 3.0i 5 speed currently 72,000miles.
My car I believe have very low options or none?
I have to do CDV delete ASAP. So annoying. Also a short shifter with a weighted knob will make shifting so much better.
It feels like there should be another gear. 6 speeds are great I bet.

Id definitely be interested! Ive been looking for a good source to retrofit a manual trans into my x5 (3.0 also) Thanks!

Sarek,

I have a 5 speed manual X5 E53 (3.0 diesel, I live in Europe). Reasonable access to 6 speeds (with transfer case & drive shafts) from dead donor cars elsewhere in Europe. I know that it's mostly bolt up and plug in play aside from a few issues:

1) reverse light switch in a different location between 5 & 6 speeds, so extending the wires is needed.
2) how to integrate the later X drive transfer case (signal) to an earlier non-X drive car.
3) differential ratios to be sorted, again the easiest is to take from the donor (6 speed) vehicle.

Could you enlighten us / me on #2 please?

Proud owner of a 2002 BMW X5 3.0i 5 speed
 

2002 X5 5 speed 3.0i, 18" rims, Sport, From Michigan! I feel like we have an edge on the auto X croud.

Let's talk pedals
 

Since I upgraded to Titan Silver trims, I think a new set of manual pedals to show off the footwell area a bit are in order, question is which ones? The ACS replicas are nice, but come with crappy hardware and the dead pedal is about 2" short up top, not too bothersome, and the price is nice, about $55 plus a few bucks for better stainless steel hardware:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDAwWDYwMA...7E%7E60_12.JPG

Then there is the OEM option, which I like very much, the price is ok at $110, there is no drilling required, only thing is no dead pedal available to match:

http://i9.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/eb/42/936c_1.JPG

Lastly I was looking at Ultimate Pedals, but they are the priciest of the bunch at nearly $190 for a full set of 4, in their "anti-slip" finish $186 shipped, I'm not a fan of the look with the grip inserts they provide, a really nice set machined in the US, stainless flush mount hardware and lock nuts, just not sure if I'm wanting to drop the coin yet, and these do require drilling just like the ACS:

http://www.ultimatepedals.com/ebay/i...bmw/pict_1.jpg

Would look like those with a matching dead pedal (pic is of E46 for reference with M dead pedal)


Thoughts?

Clutch fixed
 

Just a heads up for manual owners FWIW - had to replace the clutch slave cylinder in our '04 6-spd at 139K miles this weekend (wife does a lot of around town driving). Also did the clutch master cylinder at the same time. Not a hard job it turns out. I was headed out of town when it failed in the neighborhood (clutch pedal on floor; no real resistance when pumping by hand; gears still could be engaged) and just ordered both parts and the clutch slave bleeding tool from bavauto. Took about 3 hrs in the driveway and most was prep time - removing interior trim and trying to prevent spilled fluid on the carpet (which never happened). If your clutch pedal stays floored, try replacing clutch slave cylinder first though (its all exterior and easily accessed). My clutch master appeared ok, while the slave cylinder rod was pretty much detached and leaking fluid pressure. Oh and I also replaced the clutch pedal bushings while in there for an additional $4 or so.

Fixed and nicer shifting! Even the wife noticed and thats saying something...

Nice job Gavski! Will keep this in mind for the future, which clutch bushings did you use?

For the clutch pedal -- I used 2 of Part # : 35 21 1 158 290 for $1.95 each (what the heck while I was in there, right?). They just push out and in with your fingers. Turns out, I couldn't really disconnect the clutch master cylinder (CMC) end from the pedal without removing the pedal anyway.

Both the pedal and the CMC are held on with pins and small spring retaining clips that are easy to pop off and on.

BUMP - for the benefit of NY X5 Guy, the newest member of the three-pedal mafia ....

Hi, I'd like to officially register in the e53 manny tranny registry. 2003 X5 with 5 speed, titanium silver with grey leather. Which I've just gotten and am tickled pink over. I've been practicing my manual transmission footwork for many years only to now be blessed with the holy grail of manual transmission machines, the X5 with the (gasp) manual transmission. OMG the passers by will say to themselves as they inadvertently glance in my window and see the ominous stick shift and 3rd pedal menacingly but proudly proclaiming to the world: I am indeed a manual transmission endowed X5 standing before you.

Hey folks, recently I've noticed that the stick on my X5 ('01 5-speed) doesn't always return to the proper center position. Sometimes it seems to get stuck somewhere in between where 3rd and 5th gear are positioned. I heard this is a common problem for BMW shifters, but I don't know anything about what might cause it. Could someone point me to a reference that shows how the shfiters on our cars are built, and what I'd need to replace to fix this? It hasn't caused any mis-shifts, but it is annoying!

One other thing, anyone know a good place to find replacement shift knobs? Preferably OEM BMW, but, as I'm looking at those, even the very basic black ones are $80! That seems over the top...

there is a white plastic cup bushing that goes bad I think. It sits under the ball for the shifter. I'm assuming we use the same assembly as the e46, I really liked my weighted ZHP knob on my e46. I think I paid 50 bucks for it.

Dillon I'd check that ball bushing as jgold said, and your linkage in general from under the car to see if anything is loose or worn, it may be hard to tell though.

Also check to see if the selector rod is getting hung up, might need to spray some cleaner/lubricant down there.

I have the same problem with mine; the shift lever at rest usually ends up over near 5th gear, and is sometimes a bit sticky in neutral. After some research I found that worn shift detent pins are sometimes at fault for that, but if it's as easy as a plastic cup bushing... That would be so sweet. Were you able to replace that from inside, or did you have to go underneath & disassemble stuff? Got a part number perchance?

Here's a link to a DIY writeup for the shift detent fix, and the BMW SIB; the repair looks pretty involved. I already sprung for the tools, and was dreading the pulling of the transmission. Not the most pleasant of jobs with a lift, and much worse without.

How to: Service your transmission shift pins.
http://webspace.ringling.edu/~dplass...230104-063.pdf

This guide covers the process of replacing and updating the shift pins of the ZF S5D 320Z 5-speed manual transmission used in many of the BMW 6-cylinder models. This is a service that is prompted by a design fault of the shift detent pins used in that specific transmission. The symptoms include difficulty shifting into 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear (BMW SIB 23 01 02 (881)) and sticking of shift lever when shifting in and out of the 5th gear or reverse gear gate (BMW SIB 23 01 04 (063)). This service requires that the transmission be entirely removed from the vehicle and assumes that you have already done so.

Dave to get to the ball bushing pop the shift boot out, pop out the rubber boot covering the interface to the floor, and with the rubber boot out pop off the clip on the end of the shifter (connecting the selector rod), and then you have to use either 2 screwdrivers or needle nose pliers to rotate the white bushing 90 degrees, once you do so it will pop out with the shift lever itself.

:iagree: Davintosh is right on the money. Sounds like a detent issue, and will require dropping the tranny. I did this on my e36 years ago. Once you have the special tools, no big deal. Time to get greasy!

Is this the part?

BMW E53 X5 M54 3.0L Search SiteSearch 25111220600 - ECS Tuning

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/88146_x600.jpg

#6? Part #25111220600
http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/e/92.png

Part #6 that is the part, its a cheap thing to repair. It has been said that #12 (rod joint) also contributes to wear, but that is not as easy to replace. When I installed my UUC SSK the ball bushing is replaced in the UUC kit, I was going to replace #12 but didn't, although I did replace #4 as that was easy to get to.

Keep in mind I only have 74k as of today so I'm sure I dont have the wear amount some of the linkages with 150k+ do.

Holy crap, that makes me think I will just deal with it, until I need to replace the clutch or have some other reason to get that involved with the tranny. I'm not having any trouble getting into gear. I think I will replace that white bushing though; I'm sure it's never been done and it might help. I'll try and look at the linkage when I have the ability to do so (no garage right now :()

Is that like this one?

Amazon.com: BMW (25 11 7 896 031) Gear Shift Knob, Leather: Automotive

That's the cheapest I've seen it, most places have it for the full list price of $82. I like the idea of a weighted knob, but when there's not a single "M" part on my car I don't think I want an "M" badge on the shifter only :D Really what I want is a factory wood grain one to match the walnut trim on my car, like this one, but 1) that is way too expensive for a shift knob and 2) I might be redoing the wood trim anyway.

I do have to wonder what the compatibility between models is like? I'd think that all 3- and 5-series from the early 90s on up use the same shift knobs, but I don't know :dunno:

Getbmwparts.com sells ZHP knobs for 64 bucks shipped. I have one. Basically all shift knobs on BMW's are interchangeable.

Here is my ZHP with swapped non M insert (I don't put M badges on non M cars, the insert was additional 8 bucks and 1 min to swap)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/19/3yva2yju.jpg

Nice, maybe I'll go with that one then, I didn't realize you can swap the insert. Love that titanium trim! Tempted to paint mine, but I don't think it'd go well with the tan interior.

Thanks man i ended up getting a great deal on a used set of Titan trims off eBay Germany, way too expensive on eBay here. I had light poplar wood before, very ugly and out of place. If you painted it it would paint piano black or something similar but be sure to take it to a paint shop to get done right.

Oh and if you didn't know already I have the Evo3 SSK by UUC as well as the knob so my neutral position looks a bit different after the addition of the SSK.

Oh?? I didn't even know they finally put one out! Worth the cost?

I am actually pretty experienced painting, and it would be a fun project, but as is, the trim pieces are the ONLY accent pieces...everything else is tan, including the carpet, leather inserts, and the rest of the doors. I was going to post a picture but can't find a good one. I'm sure you know the look anyway. I just feel like with the way it is, nothing but wood will serve to complete the look of the car.

Suppose I could paint the top of the door panels black so that it matches the dash (like the E70s), and then go with a dark carbon or "aluminum" vinyl wrap, but that's more work than I'm ready for right now. That will change in a couple months, so it'll become a nice winter project :thumbup:

The UUC SSK is definitely worth the cost in my opinion, makes for a very satisfying drive, search earlier posts by Riggo and myself for impressions.

It's a decent amount of coin ($355 not on sale, UUC runs 15% off and free shipping sales often so you can snag it for around $300, which I did), but it's the only game on the market unless you are going custom, and a solidly built unit. I would never go back to stock.

You did delete the CDV right?

Not yet! Haven't had a place to do it (that's changing soon), and didn't want to pay a shop to do it. Really looking forward to it though. Despite the intent of the CDV, I think shifting with it removed will be smoother.

Dillon, even if you don't spring for the UUC shift kit, do the CDV. You won't regret it. And yes, RB's titanium trim looks great. He takes any opportunity to show it off ....

Thanks Riggo! I'm very pleased with it, totally transforms the interior to a much sportier tone. Took me almost a year to find a good shape used set at a good price so I do like to show it off when I can lol!

CDV delete is basically free Dillon, how handy are you under the car? You probably can have a shop do it for you for free when they do a brake/clutch flush, as they have to bleed the clutch and the CDV is right there, just unscrew the fitting from the master and reconnect the hard line direct to it, and bleed as normal.

Very handy, haven't done much on the X5 except for an oil change, but I've done just about everything on other cars, including fluid changes and brake / clutch bleeding. CDV delete is something I've always planned to do anyway, but haven't had the opportunity to. Next month I am finally getting into a place with a nice garage...I'm not sure if the brake fluid is due to be changed, as it had new pads put on right before I bought it and it could have been done, but I'm doing it anyway, along with tranny and diff fluids. Better safe than sorry!

Piano Black trim ain't too shabby either. ;) I'm amazed at how much different the interiors on X5s with "wood" trim look after becoming accustomed to mine.

http://www.davintosh.com/wp-content/...3_x5_dash.jpeg

If I ever get another X5 and it comes with wood trim, I'd be searching for a set in Piano Black, or maybe using some 3M film to wrap it. The CF print is a bit too much, but I think the gloss black and brushed aluminum would look good in most interiors.

I'll keep my woody, for now ;)

Dave I never saw your interior but it's gorgeous! I LOVE the matching lower black steering wheel trim! Might have to get a matching silver trim for my lower wheel now :)

Anyone have graphite trim (2004-2006) or dark smoked grey wood trim? Love to see some photos of them.

Junger, here is a pic I found on the net

http://www.xoutpost.com/attachments/...int-trim-4.jpg


The smoked grey wood (if that is what you're talking about) is not only SUPER RARE but SUPER EXPENSIVE, I've only seen new sets for sale for about 1k.

Thanks RB for the photo. I don't think the graphite trim goes well with the tan interior. But in black, that would look sharp.

I have seen smoked grey wood trim on 2006 4.8is with black interior a while back and it looked amazing. I haven't seen another since then. I would love to find a set on EBAY or Germany EBAY... :D

Junger you have tan interior? You're right its not really great on tan.

Here is smoke but be prepared to get your Amex out, I searched German ebay and no luck

BMW Genuine E53 x5 Smoke Grey Poplar Wood Trim Kit New | eBay

I have black interior. I was referring to the photo. :)

Thanks RB for the link. $1800 for the trims are more than I'm willing to spend but they would look nice in my X. ;) Maybe, if lucky, I can find a set used...

Junger let me know what you're looking for and what kinda budget you have I can browse German eBay and such for you and see if I can find you a set, always willing to help members out.

I’m willing to spend up to $700 for the smoked grey poplar wood trim set. If you come across them, I’m definitely interested. Much thanks RB! :beerchug:

Add meh!

2003 with 5 cogs in Seattle Washingon

http://i673.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps9eqann57.jpg

Josh we are glad to finally welcome you, silver is so clean!!

How many miles on that bad boy again?

Mighty fine looking silver bullet you have there, Josh. Welcome to the registry!

Thanks guys! It has 157k miles. Which were more then what I wanted but it drove really well, had some pretty good service history, and not too much wear so we decided to bring it home anyway.

It feels just like a lifted car. It drives so smooth and the suspension is nice and firm. I'm really stoked we got one with all the sport stuff.

Welcome my man to the three pedal club! My I introduce the official mascot of this registry....... a three legged dog in a lion costume. :rofl:

Add me please!
3.0d Sport 6-speed manual Toledo Blue registered 1 September 2005, one owner car :-)
Adds: panoramic sunroof, grey Dakota leather upholstery, comms pack, heated front seats, heated rear seats, heated steering wheel, rear blinds, bi-xenon headlights.
120500 miles. No picture as it is on axle stands prepped for new rear brakes (which are just leaving Germany today).
Ridiculously reliable car - apart from consumables (brakes) I've only ever bought 2 parking sensors, a battery, had the Becker amplifier fix, and now - finally, proving itself to be mortal - two rear calipers and hoses are the biggest repair ever.

You didn't happen to buy this from redline motors in milwakie did you? I've been trying to look at this one for the past two days, but they've been closed.

Edit: Answer to my own question. Yes.

Nice ride. There is another 5 speed basically right across the street for sale too, black on black. We went and checked it out and it was an immediate no. GL:thumbup:

Moments and Joshdub, you guys are on the updated list! Would love to see the Toledo Blue Moments, sounds like a great X!

Ryan you are too funny with the lion -dog, lol!

Man small world, yes it is! Sorry, we bought it last Wednesday.

Best of luck on your search! Let me know if you want me to keep an eye on the Seattle area.

Mighty fine looking beastie you have there Green Dragon. Having owned a 3 legged dog in the past myself, there is only one answer you can give to anyone who asks what happened to the dogs leg:

"Well, a dog as good as this one.....you can't eat him all at once."

^^^ :rofl:

Ants Oz, in the US of A, that's the punch line to a long 'smart pig' joke. Only heathens down under still eat dogs, even one leg at a time ......

On the topic of manual transmissions, interesting thoughts on 3 pedal resale value:
No Fixed Abode: Stick it to 'em. | The Truth About Cars

That's consistent with my experience. I have flown significant distances to buy and drive home (1) a 4x4, 7.3L Ford diesel [2002] with a stick and (2) the X5 in my sig.

My X5 relaxing in Austria


Attachment 64331

I'd like to add my 2003 X5 5 speed to the registry. It has 262,000 miles on the orignal engine and trans! I've fixed tons of stuff on it but she keeps trucking. It tows my 22 foot catalina sailboat and tent trailer all over the country. I love the sav nothing combines the fun to drive factor with the towing ability and style of this sav.

Well I have to let go of my beloved X5. Figured I would forward the link here since this is where all the "cool" X5 enthusiast hang out.

http://www.xoutpost.com/classifieds/...ml#post1011939

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps9c88ee3b.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps8a7cd9a1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...psbb0e7bfa.jpg

That's a fine-looking example, and you have clearly taken good care of it. Good luck with the sale!

Where the hell was this a month ago. Good luck with the sale.

One more for the List
 

One more for the List
 

Hello,

I've been a member since 2008, just never got around to officially introduce my E53 2001, a few modes and 150k and kicking strong. I'm in Alexandria VA area, anyone else around?

http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/...s77ad437c.jpeg

Nice! It looks great. The trim vinyl wrapped?

Francesco welcome and your X looks great, the wheels are not seen often on E53's!

You should have plenty of X's in the DC area, TerminatorX5 (black 4.8is) lives near you as well as a few others I'm sure.

Love your OE 5 speed Titan Silver shift knob, I almost went with that to match my trim but did a ZHP knob instead

Thanks Ricky, indeed the 177 style wheel is a bit rare, I really like them but tons of work to keep them clean.

Shifting Knob was a birthday present, chosen by me of course. Thanks for the info on the E53 members.

Cheers

Yes vinyl wrapped all interior pieces, I did it about three years ago with the 2D wrap, I'm sure the 4D is even nicer, worth doing the work, would recommend it.

Cheers

Francisco

Any of you guys ever pull your manual trans out and put it back in?
I have a leaking rear main...

I pulled mine last month to replace the clutch. i have a lift so it wasn't that bad. I replaced the transfer case chain while i had it apart. you need to remove the exhause, transfer case, clutch slave, then pull it out. if you have any specific questions please feel free to ask.

Pulled the trans many times. Havent seen a rear main issue yet. I have seen many oil pan gasket leaks...........:confused:

It doesn't look that bad of a job. Lots of room down there to work. I'd invest in a dedicated transmission jack.

Speaking of dropping transmissions - lets talk transmissions. First of all out of curiosity is our unique to the x5 or is it used anywhere else? I have to imagine it is used on other vehicles due to the low production numbers.

What fluid / change intervals do you all use. Any additives that help smooth things out or what have you. I purchased my x with 68k and I'm up to 102k now. (yikes) I think a fluid change is and has been in order. I've started noticing that my 1 / 2 gear sometimes don't want to slide in after idling at a light. I'm hoping fluid will help out, wondering if others have noticed this and worse comes to worse maybe I have a tired synchro or something.

After dropping the 900lb tranny in my freightliner toterhome (using a shitty tranny jack and some big as ratchet straps mind you) I don't have a lot of respect for whatever difficulty would be involved in dropping this thing.

Unlike your Xdrive transfer case on the 04-06 models, the 5speed or 6speed MT in the E53 can use normal manual transmission fluids.

I used Redline fluids in all my driveline, and am happy. I personally chose Redline MTL for my manual trans, my intervals are 50k for driveline fluids, I bought the X5 at 59k so I changed it around 60k. I'll do it again at 100k, same with diffs and Xfer case.

Some other fluids known for use in the MT's in our E53's are:

-Redline MTL
-Redline MT-90 (slightly thicker than MTL which is why I chose MTL, for the cold winters in Jersey)
-Redline D4 ATF

Riggodeaux has used a LubroMoly anti-friction additive in his trans, he has posted the part # somewhere in these threads, a google search should turn it up. I think on his maintenance receipt he did Redline D4 ATF and the Lubro additive, don't quote me.

Hope that helps, but yes unlike the AT models which everyone says is lifetime and is hit/miss on fluid changes, our MT's will benefit from regular intervals of changing trans fluid. you also can buy magnetic drain/fill plugs to catch any metal particles (www.drainplugmagnets.com)

Im actually very interested to know if our manual trans is similar or identical to other models. I plan to drive my 5-sp forever so I often wonder if I will ever be able to find a replacement when or if I ever need one. I currently have 180+K miles and everything still works beautifully in the whole vehicle including the drivetrain.

If you keep the fluid changed I don't see why the MT would fail. A lot of the internals I'm sure or shared with others. I've never seen an MT fail unless it was abused.

Did any of you guys who went the SSK route go with this schmiedmann unit? Looks sweet, and at 1/2 the price of the UUC kit, might be a winner!

If i remember it well, there's a member here( green dragon?) who has the schmiedmann ssk...might wanna PM him regarding this specific one.

Four8, you're right (and good to see you in this thread!), Green Dragon (Ryan) has one. Not sure if it's installed yet, he's been dormant lately. Shoot him a pm! Obviously I won't swap out now since I already have the UUC unit. I can almost assure you the Schmiedmann isn't a bolt on no modification install though

I'll reach out to GreenDragon and try emailing schmiedmann and see what they say as far as plug n play.. Thanks guys.

I thought my ears were burning!
 

Yes, the Schmiedmann SSK is installed! I have been running it for several months now. Love it. I only modified an extension to make it fit. I also added a few degrees of sweep to have the factory angle. I did break the schmiedmann piece while bending...oops, but welded it back together. I have adjusted the throw once to dial in/ customize the feel. I wil upload pics tonight.

I spoke with a fellow that installed one without modification and it worked. I'll pull the info and report.

Sorry to have disappeared. Life has been crazy in a good way. I will have some fun mods to share in the future.;)

"It shouldn't ever fail" isn't the answer to my question. I was asking if the MT in the X5 (2001 3.0L 5-sp) matches up to any other BMW transmission in any other vehicle, or is it special in some way such as special case to work with the transfer case or special gearing etc.

I agree that they are robust but everything mechanical wears out.
I didn't buy mine new and I don't know it's maintenance history.
When it is very cold out my X5 grinds just a little when downshifting into 3rd until the fluid warms up. This tells me that the 3rd gear synchro is already a bit worn and probably won't last forever.
The X5 has about 182K on it, so it's been around.

I'm not trying to be a troll or a flamer, I would sincerely just like to know if anyone has the info at hand on the compatibility.

The actual MT to my knowledge is not cross compatible with other bimmers. It's not like "oh just get an E39 Mt it will bolt right up"

If you have grinding and/or worn synchros at your mileage I would drop the trans and have the internals rebuilt so you can get another 182k miles of shifting out of it. Take to a reputable place and would be 1/3 the cost of rebuilding an AT

I am a shop.

I'm just a poor boy, I need no sympathy.

Campy, as Green Dragon's response discloses, his Utah hillbilly techie mods made his install of the less-expensive alternative a bit trickier than the UUC install. Choose your poison ......:)

I'm the new kid on the block, stopping in to say "Hi".

I purchased Dave's "Davintosh" '01 X5 Silver over Black 5 spd, last weekend. He did a great job keeping and rebuilding it. I've known Dave for years as we hang on on the Mye28.com anarchists forum :D

Thanks Dave.

Unfortunately for you folks, you have not heard the last of me.

Welcome! Post pictures. And no one would blame you if a few E28 ones slip in there too.

Enjoy it and yes he did care excellently for it! I replaced his screen name with yours on the list :)

Hey, you made it! It was good to hear that you survived the trip back, and that the X5 did well for you. I think you'll like the xoutpost crowd; lots of helpful guys here, among whom Ricky Bobby is one of the best.

I'll still be around, and will help out where I can, but I think these guys will have you more than covered!

Dave we are gonna miss you man! Hope alls well with your health and the family my friend!

A recently-posted 2003 5 spd on Craigslist ATL. Mileage higher than I would like, 159k, but looks like its well-cared for. Check it out .
2003 BMW X5 3.0i 5-SPEED MANUAL, NAV, PREMIUM PACKAGE 159K MILES

Still appears on Craigslist, for anyone interested in joining the three pedal X53 cavalry ...

ok, first post here so I thought this was a good thread to start, just picked up an 06, 6 speed, one owner with 124k on the odo.http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...psfb0d7c18.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...psbdaf4d76.jpg
coming from this..
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps57b7b5eb.jpg