Yes, but the inertia of the inner race will pound the ball bearings into the outer race with every hit. You risk damaging the bearing this way and I would not recommend it at all. It's just way too easy to use a big bolt or hydraulic jack. (Into do it without risk).

You could build a frame with some heavy lumber or some angle iron or just drill a hole through 4-6 sheets of plywood to get a strong enough plate to push the 8-10T. Use of some release agent like liquid wrench should help a bunch.

I'm not saying you can't roll your own, I'm coming from the experience of shredding three pricy 3/4" hardened push rods (well lubricated).pressing out three X5 front bearings with heat.

The math worked out to about 17T of force to remove and 12T to install (heated knuckle to 240f or 115 c).

The back bearing only needs the hub pushed in and out and is comically easier, the 3/4" rod has maybe twice the power needed and my 1" machine made me laugh when I used with the impact.

I'm hoping to get my new front bearing and install today. I'm going to try liquid wrench and measure the torque to remove it. If I can get it off with less than 200 ft·lb I can measure the torque and calculate the force.

I made a roller bearing to assist but only used for installing as it's not originally designed for axial loading.

I've also seen but knowing what I knows now it's just way way way easier to make a proper pusher with a 1" grade 8 bolt and some grease and an oilite bushing. It's not difficult to make and ∞ easier.

Andrew,

Glad you have the 1" threaded rod and you drilled the holes in the adapters bigger to accommodate the 1" threaded rod. Most people don't have access to 1" threaded rod, let alone drilling the holes bigger.

I am talking about the average Saturday mechanic with basic tools.

Re hammering the Outer race. I have replaced some AC Pulley bearings and other bearings by hammering on the Outer race (using the Old bearing as an "adapter"). Zero issues over the years.

Little bearings are much easier. No prob to use a hammer and a socket.

I bought my 8" bolts on Amazon for like $6, the nuts at Menards for like $1.50.

For the plates I already had them and I do have access to a brother that works at a machine shop so it was easier for me than the average Joe to get the plates opened up to an inch but you could do the same with a hand drill and a 1" bit and some patience.

Else, stack some washers and some thinner metal and some plywood you can get enough strength to push 15T or so and push out the big bearing.

I linked above a proper kit that will work as purchased. I wouldn't trust any kit with 3/4" rod because though you might get the stars to align and get it to work it is not a reliable solution.

I've pulled a bunch of hubs with bolts and with slide hammers. The slide hammer is the quick easy way and you can rent for free from most auto part stores.

I've not found a reliable rental tool so I would recommend buying the proper press tool it pays for itself the first use because it negates the need for a follow up alignment or hiring someone to press the bearing out/in.

I've got no problem with a good roll your own solution and I have 15 plate sizes I'll never use so one day I would like to measure the exact 3-5 parts used for X5, and share that so people could buy just what they need to push the bearings on X5.

I'm wondering if there is some combination of washers and plumbing parts you can just buy for $20 and have a near perfect solution.

One of the bigger problems is pulling the new bearing in because the inside of the knuckle is not a clean flat plane to mate nicely. I might slap a 2x6 across the opening to see if it can handle the forces involved.

I think somebody tried to use a large PVC coupler for removing and it shattered so I was thinking of galvanized pipe.

For a DIY slide hammer idea, I was going to use a few pieces of angle iron bolted to the lugs with a cross piece maybe 18" from the hub. That would work very well but I don't recommend slide hammer on the front too many ball joints to damage.

If I figure out some nice roll your own options I will post them on my bearing thread.

Funny you should say that. I've only replace one wheel bearing - right rear - and I used a slide hammer to remove the hub.

I now notice (20,000km later) that my right rear lower ball joint might have more play in it than the left.

Coincidence? :dunno:

That is exactly the concern. The ball joint fortunately doesn't move much and has 100s of times more surface area (than the wheel bearing) so can handle much more impact and why it's relatively safe to use impact to remove the rear hub.

I've been working on a lug bolt push method for the rear to avoid impact but it's just so convenient to use a slide hammer.

I won't use slide hammer on the front unless I'm already planning to replace ball joints in the front.

wpoll,

Your ball joint failure is a coincidence. The ball joint gets the beating daily with hundreds of lumps/bumps/potholes on the road.
The force from the slide hammer is not that much, nothing when compared against road potholes.

The bearing separator trick is in the video below.
If you don't have bearing separator, then place a piece of oak flooring wood + wrench so the wheel lugs can act on. With some creativity, you can remove the hub w/o the slide hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMt71Zr1NeE.

Front Wheel Bearing R&R
 

What I've used in the past is a hardened steel angle bracket to connect conduit hangers in place of a bearing separator.

It does destroy the dust cap so I buy a replacement. When I had to replace the same bearing I used a slide hammer so I didn't kill the dust cap.

I just did this job today - thanks for all the info and details in this thread.

Just a couple notes:

-I cannot imagine doing this with the hub in place. Much easier to do on a press. We had a 20 tons press and no issue. Take this opportunity to replace suspension components (I had done mine last year).

-I had two issues. One axle was hard to get out/in of the hub (easily pushed out with the proper puller shown) but was hard to get back in. I cleaned it up a lot but still had to bang it it in until I could get enough thread to put the nut on.

-The circlips were quite hard to get out. The one that came with the kit was lower quality, so I was not sure which one to put back on. I ended up putting the new ones.

-Price have come down a long way - I paid $55 (+ shipping) for the whole kit including the hubs from Rock Auto.

-Apparently book says 5.8 hours, it took me 4 hours with a car lift and the proper tools readily available. Many things can go wrong though, I got lucky.

-I went to this DIY place - Ron the owner is great guy. Home - Gearhead

-Car is definitively more quiet now and feels more tight, and I seem to have less vibration. The old bearings seemed okay (not destroyed) but I guess there were due. Car has 1800000 miles.

Thanks again for everyone who have posted and contributed before me, it really helped.

https://www.rockauto.com/info/635/295-96104_1__ra_p.jpg

With the right bearing tool it’s not a problem to change in place. My bearing press is good for about 61T.

How did you pull the hub (or should I say push)?