To remove the front hub I usually use three 14mm bolts and a metal plate between the hub and knuckle. It will destroy the dust cap so I buy new one with the bearing.

I actually have the set (bearing plus dust cap) in my cart at fcpeuro right now.

The last one I just used a slide hammer because I already had rented to do a rear bearing and I wasn't worried about damaging the control arm.

I'll use the long bolt through hub method on my next one. (Oh: quite important; grind the end too a slight cone or you can't remove it later add it will mushroom out)

I bought the Genuine BMW Value Line Service Kit that has everything from FCP too. And I bought the Genuine BMW bearing with it. $230 for both of those but the original Genuine BMW parts went 175,000 miles so far, I'll replace them with the Genuine BMW parts again.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ne-31222311523

That's a nice kit. I reuse the bolts that aren't yield torqured. Since you have the dust cap, best way to remove the hub is a few long 14mm bolts tapered a bit to a cone at the tip.

As Overboost has a new hub too, why worry about tapering the 14mm bols? Just chuck the whole thing, bolts'n'all… ;)

I could discard the dust shield, the bearing and hub together for sure but I have to get to the snap ring to press out the old bearing on the press, so I have to remove the hub from the bearing first.

I can pull the carrier with hub on it, I can press the hub off the bearing on the press. I am just using the tool hopefully to shove the axle out of the hub without beating on it.

I'm gonna try the Turner puller first. If that gets sideways, I will try other methods. :dunno:

If you loosen the parts to remove the knuckle the CV will pop out with maybe a tap with a 1lb hammer.


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Yes, in theory for sure. I have read many threads where the splined axle was plenty stuck. Crowz story was one that scared me.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-job-hell.html

Maybe I'm just too paranoid but I just want to be ready and have whatever tools are available just in case of that moment it all goes sideways.

I've seen a couple axles that were a disaster but a quick preview when you pull the roundel if you don't see rust and the axle nut is crisp and clean you should have clear sailing.

There biggest help I came across was the bit where I loosen the strut bolts when putting CV in or out. I spent 90 minutes trying to get CV back in and it wouldn't. Out of desperation I losened the tower bolts and the rubber boot of the CV shot the axle completely through the hub! So now I always start the CV through and start the nut before I m reattach the tower bolts

Yes indeed. That advise was noted and I will be using that technique. Thanks for that tip. :thumbup:

If the CV doesn't pop out easily, spray some release agent, wait a while then put the axle nut on backwards and use a BFH to get it started