Doing a bit of research before I replace the SAME bearing that failed less than two years ago (and ONLY ONE to ever fail), I found a bmw service bulletin that clued me in why they fail and it's not from age/miles. It's from impact. Rough pot hole or curb strike, especially if you hit a pot hole asymmetrically pushing the wheel sideways at the bottom.

I replaced 3 bearings on wife's car and figured it's just a matter of time before the fourth will need to be replaced but like my car one that has already been replaced actually needs replacing before the last of four. Seems wheel bearing not a periodic maintenance part.

Getting ready to replace my front bearings and hubs on the X5. I am preparing for the job by collecting the tools necessary to make this a fairly straight forward process.

From all my research, it seems the things that do not go well besides pressing the bearing in and out of the carriers are getting the axles in and out of the old hub/new hubs. There have been members that had to beat the hell out of the axle or resorting to dozens and dozens of whacks with a slide hammer to get it the hub off the axle. The same would apply for getting the axle back in the hub when reinstalling.

I hate beating anything if I don't have to so I bought these 2 tools. The first tool from ECS Tuning/Turner was the:

Bav Auto Wheel Hub Puller / Axle Press - 4 lug bolt - BMW & MINI #580367.

This is the deep housing for 5x120 lug pattern. I am hoping the splined axle presses right out or the hub pulls off with little effort. Fingers crossed.

The second tool I got from ECS Tuning/Turner was the:

CV Axle Shaft Puller / Wheel Bearing Hub Installer Kit - Bavarian Autosport
#3673940

Same hopes for the ease of pulling the splined axle back into the new hub.

Nice looking tools! :thumbup:

The axle removal tool is the same as I've used on my rear bearing replacement - it was part of my slide hammer kit. Perfect.

Re. installing the axle, Andrew reckons that it helps enormously to have lots of play in the knuckle when installing the axle. It helps to allow the axle to "self-align" rather than fighting to get it into a splined hole it's not quite lined up with.

I reckon he's right...

Indeed. I am planning on using the CV puller tool to pull the CV into the hub before attaching the upper carrier mounts to the strut so that is has enough play. So many stories of guys struggling to get them back in. :dunno:

Other than this axle alignment issue, the whole task can be completed with only removing one end of the lower rear arm - that gives you enough freedom to remove the CV/axle from the knuckle. Buy yeah, I suspect that the extra play you'll gain by loosening or removing the knuckle-to-strut connection is going to make all the difference.

Of course, if you are removing the knuckle to press the bearing on a bench press (rather than using the on-car bearing tools) then this is all rather academic! ;)

That was one of the other difficulties experienced by our members was the effort it took to use the pullers for removing the bearings in the car. Some even experienced extreme force even with a press so rather that fight that, I opted for a new 20 ton press. I still have to do all the rear control arm bushings too so decided to just go ahead and buy one.

This is the one I got and notice how this guy mounts his QuickJack right to the sides. Clever storage.

I've done this job about six times now. Easier every time.

Since my lower control arm is due for replacement I just used a slide hammer to remove the hub the last time.

Important: remove abs sensor before slide hammer I damaged one skipping that step on rear bearing.

That kit doesn't seem to have a big enough out sleeve for the from bearing. I'm not home to get a measurement but can check tomorrow.

Also, the main problem with the universal bearing tools is the threaded rod is too small. 3/4 (19mm) is about 5Ton too weak (I've turned three of them into bumpy cylinders trying).

7/8 (22mm) is the minimum requirement for removing the bearing.

I've never had a problem pushing the CV out and once I figured out to leave the strut bolts completely loose until insert the cv I've never had a problem putting them in either.

I use my 760 ft·lb impact for running the press but I've used just a long extension ratchet to install the last time. Probably less than 200 ft·lb torque.

It's probably worth the effort to put the front bearing in the freezer you gain about 0.003"( 0.08 mm) which will drop the force required by a couple thousand pounds. I don't think I froze mine the last time but my press is good for about 31T now: over double the requirement for install.

With a 1" threaded rod, it's a non issue to pull the bearings now.

Thanks Andrew. Since I'm working in the garage I don't mind a removing a couple more links and take the carrier off the car so I can work on it at eye level instead of ankle level. https://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/im...ilies/rofl.gif

I have not done this before and I am preparing for the worst. Waiting on the "gotcha moment". The condition of the working environment can ultimately affect the outcome so I am making my conditions the best I can within my control. :thumbup:

Nice tools, but to push the axle out of the hub and re-install the axle, no need for any special tool.
When I did my E39 5-series REAR bearing (similar principles for X5 Front and Rear bearings), I used regular 3-jaw puller and made my own tool to pull the axle back in...

DIY: 1998 528i REAR Bearing the Easy Way!
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?p=6305260

Here are the E39 5-series photos to show you the tools:


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Yes, this post was one I read when I started reading on the rear ball joint replacement.

The biggest issue here is the front of the X5 has a dust ring around the front bearing that covers the edge of the hub where that puller attaches. It will damage the ring using that jaw grip. Others suggested pulling from the central hub lug holes was a better practice so it made sense so I am going to try it. It was only $30 from Turner but certainly may end up using alternative methods. ;)