I got the left side finished up last night; the parts I ordered all came in, and it only took a couple of hours to put it all back together. The new ABS sensor didn't want to fit in the hole though. I had it cleaned out as well enough to see shiny metal all around, but the new sensor would go in just so far before binding hard. I opted for the non-oem part, which was priced about $100 less than oem. That's was probably the case with the one I had to drill out too; whoever put it in probably found the same problem but just went ahead & pushed it in. Throw in a little corrosion, and that thing wasn't going anywhere. This time though I whittled & filed the plastic housing down enough for it to slide in & out easily, then put some anti-seize on for good measure.

With the new bearing it's a little quieter on the road, but not much. The rest of the noise might be from the other bearing, but after looking things over I wonder if it's the front differential; there seems to a lot of play or lash in the driveline. With the front end in the air, I turn one wheel one direction until the driveshaft turns, then I turn it in the other direction; I didn't measure how far it turned, but it felt like a long ways. I've heard that changing fluids in the transmission and diffs can make a difference, so I'll probably start there. I may post another thread on that topic sometime soon.

Would using a "freeze" process on the bearing/hub/knuckle work?

Maybe: (1) Freeze the hub and heat the bearing. Slide the 2 together. (2) freeze the hub and bearing as a solid unit then slid into the heated knuckle.

I tried this on my old Porsche and had the bearing in in 5 seconds. Slid right on the hub with a little Vaseline. Refroze and into the knuckle it went.

Just a thought but not sure on a X5.

It might make a little bit of difference, but not much. Getting the new bearing in is the easiest part of the process, and is almost a non-event after the drama of getting it out.

Wouldn't work unless maybe on the rear, the front bearings actually need to be pressed in the knuckle first, then the retaining circlip fitted in the knuckle's groove, then the hub pressed back in. you couldn't install the front ones as an assembly bc of the circlip.

and I don't know about Dave's experience but the rear bearings might actually be easier than the fronts on our E53.

Ughhhhh. Wish I saw your post before I pressed on the hub flange. It was loose and I couldn't put the sensor on as the bearing moved too far back.

Ended up seeing your post trying to figure out why the hub was so loose. Removed the flange which destroyed the new bearing. Removed the bearing and pressed in a new one, then used your tip to press only using the inner part of the bearing and it worked like a charm.

I had the same symptoms as the OP. Right curves made the vibration disappear.

Did a test drive and all is smooth. I had bought two bearings just in case it was the left one, but I am good still. First time doing a wheel bearing. What a bear on these X5's.

With press in bearings, when you go to press the hub back in you need to press with a support for the inner race. By not supporting the inner race you are pushing the inner race out of the bearing.

More Info Please
 

I get this. Makes total sense to support the inner race when pressing the hub back into the bearing. However, earlier in the thread it was noted not to press on the outer edge of the bearing when installing. Did I misread that? And a 2nd question...

Since you cannot see the neck of the hub following re-install, how are you to confirm when it is fully installed... is this fully installed?

When you install the bearing into the upright you press the bearing by the outer race. When you install the hub onto the bearing you support the inner race. If the back of the hub is flush with the inner race of the bearing, it is pushed in far enough.

... thanks makes perfect sense.

Old-ish thread but there's a wealth of experience here...

Can anyone who has done their front and/or rear wheel bearings and got the tools (RB?) let me know if these tools will do the job?

https://www.topmaq.co.nz/item/view/H...t?sku=AUVE3700

https://www.topmaq.co.nz/images/item...VE3700_a_b.jpg

https://www.topmaq.co.nz/item/view/H...t?sku=AUVE3350

https://www.topmaq.co.nz/images/item...VE3350_a_b.jpg

They look right but given the cost, I don't want to waste the $$ and find they aren't correct or up to the task.

TIA...