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-   -   2001 X5 After trans flush has shudder symptoms and torque converter not locking up (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/93757-2001-x5-after-trans-flush-has-shudder-symptoms-torque-converter-not-locking-up.html)

vtyagi 08-14-2013 01:48 PM

I followed this exact process!

vtyagi 08-14-2013 01:53 PM

Maybe I should just do the whole darn thing over again. Even though I was very meticulous and tried to follow all the steps, it is a possibility that I messed something up.

I have no way of knowing if the problem is too much fluid or viscosity.

Question:
If I raise the X5 on my lift, warm up the trans (I have a IR-thermometer), then if I open the tranny drain screw, should any fluid spill out?

bcredliner 08-14-2013 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtyagi (Post 951699)
Maybe I should just do the whole darn thing over again. Even though I was very meticulous and tried to follow all the steps, it is a possibility that I messed something up.

I have no way of knowing if the problem is too much fluid or viscosity.

Question:
If I raise the X5 on my lift, warm up the trans (I have a IR-thermometer), then if I open the tranny drain screw, should any fluid spill out?

Not much and not for long as long as the vehicle is level.

The key to the process the step where you add more fluid after the initial fill has circulated. Is that what you did?

JCL 08-14-2013 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtyagi (Post 951699)
Maybe I should just do the whole darn thing over again. Even though I was very meticulous and tried to follow all the steps, it is a possibility that I messed something up.

I have no way of knowing if the problem is too much fluid or viscosity.

Question:
If I raise the X5 on my lift, warm up the trans (I have a IR-thermometer), then if I open the tranny drain screw, should any fluid spill out?

It is straightforward to check the level properly. You don't need to change the fluid again to do that.

If you used the correct fluid, then the viscosity it correct. The problem is that old fluid can become thicker with age, due to the clutch material that it is holding in suspension. When you put a new (correct viscosity) fluid in, it can be thinner. That can reveal a problem that was not evident with the older (heavier) fluid.

A third possibility is that something was disturbed within the transmission during the fluid change, and a check valve, orfice, or actuator is not functioning correctly. This can only be determined upon teardown, although diagnostic procedures can be done to determine if solenoids/etc are functioning correctly.

HPIA4v2 08-14-2013 02:09 PM

Was the engine running when you fill the trans?
W/o engine running the best you can add is 3.5 quarts, you drain 5.5 when dropping the pand and replace the filter! (I assume you have ZF trans)

WARNING, make sure the car is on 4 stands or lifts with all wheels off the ground when doing this!

bcredliner 08-14-2013 03:08 PM

The engine should be running, the air conditioning on, the parking brake and brake pedal applied and the transmission run through each gear with a short pause before the next gear. Best measurement of fluid level is at 85 degrees and will be inaccurate over 120 degrees F. Level is correct if a small stream runs out of fill hole. Vehicle should be level.

blaubenz 08-15-2013 09:05 PM

vic op how did you add more tranny oil??
 
Vic op,
In your orginal posting you said you follow the procedure to add the oil to what you think is the correct level and then you have problems and decided to add more oil. But if you added the oil to the right level in the first place it would be dripping out when you tried to add more oil , right.

Was it dripping out? And if it was dripping out are you sure you added more oil then the amount dripping out.

So was it dripping oil when you were trying to add oil the second time around? Or did you use a more creative way to all more tranny oi?

civdiv99 08-16-2013 02:10 AM

Any issue with passage or particulates impeding flow and operation would be limited to the valve body. If your fluid ops don't bring joy, then drain and strain and save that spendy fluid, pop the pan back off, grab ya a pic/diagram that shows the specific screws that hold the valve body in place, and pop off that valve body. Take to bench, disassemble one section at a time, clean and reassy in like fashion (get gaskets)

Amazing how much little goopy stuff you will find hanging out in nooks and crannies. Most of a Saturday is more than enough time to do a thorough clean and inspect.

admranger 08-16-2013 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 951724)
The engine should be running, the air conditioning on, the parking brake and brake pedal applied and the transmission run through each gear with a short pause before the next gear. Best measurement of fluid level is at 85 degrees and will be inaccurate over 120 degrees F. Level is correct if a small stream runs out of fill hole. Vehicle should be level.

That's the step I was waiting to see and didn't until you posted it.

After that you put it in park, leaving the engine running, and add more fluid until it starts to run out (assuming you are within the correct temp range and the X5 is level.

Good luck OP!

JCL 08-16-2013 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by civdiv99 (Post 952015)
Any issue with passage or particulates impeding flow and operation would be limited to the valve body. If your fluid ops don't bring joy, then drain and strain and save that spendy fluid, pop the pan back off, grab ya a pic/diagram that shows the specific screws that hold the valve body in place, and pop off that valve body. Take to bench, disassemble one section at a time, clean and reassy in like fashion (get gaskets)

Amazing how much little goopy stuff you will find hanging out in nooks and crannies. Most of a Saturday is more than enough time to do a thorough clean and inspect.

:iagree:

But make sure the fluid level is correct first, as per the detailed instructions posted above.

And make sure that the above job is within your capabilities before starting. You will need a kit from CTSC with gaskets and various seals for the valve body. Test the temperature sensor as well, since your problem changes from cold to hot. The valve body is a detailed job, everything has to go back the way it came apart. There are lots of small pieces. It isn't something to rush through. /end warnings.


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