Well, I concede defeat for tonight. I was able to get the pipe wrench on, but couldn't get the ball joint to break free. Spent some time cutting into it with a wheel cutter, but it seemed like a losing cause. Tomorrow the knuckle comes off, which is fine I guess - I need new brake pads anyway, so I can get that done now, too.

That sours up the whole operation. :( Does the front axle get in the way much or can you just drop the knuckle down and be fine? Or is the axle in the way and that is why the knuckle has to come off of it?

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the X5's suspension and driveline and cannot imagine it in my head.

No idea how well it works, but it is from BMW TIS, which means BMW service center uses this special tool to remove the joint, so I believe it should works very well.

Don't know what all the fuss is about. I did not even know there was a special tool for removing the ball joint. When I changed mine I just soaked the joint in WD40 for a few hours, removed the two bolts holding it in place and then beat it out using a 2lb lump hammer on the end of the control arm as close to the ball joint as possible whilst holding on to the other end of the control arm in my other hand. I replaced the control arm as well as the ball joint so it did not matter that I beat it to death. As far as I remember the ball joint came loose fairly easily, maybe 10 or 12 blows with the lump hammer?

He removed the control arm so he doesn't have anything to beat on.

aha - there in lies the problem....

Yes, the CV axle is right above the top of the ball joint, so if you want to beat it out, you need to at least remove the outer end of the CV axle from the knuckle.


I suspect there will be some variation here, with some ball joints coming out easier than others. My X5 is real close to 200,000 miles and these have never been changed. I wire brushed all around the top, sprayed liberally with PB Blaster, let it soak over night and I still can't get the thing to budge. (Yes, for the record, I did remove the two bolts holding it in.) I will happily hook up the control arm again and pound on it with a 10 lb sledge, but I don't think that is going to gain me anything.

I think it would be worth a shot and you could probably get the rental tool from one of the auto parts chain stores and then find the right threaded fitting to mate up to the ball joint. The only problem for me is that I am doing this on my garage floor with front jacked up and I don't know that I would have enough room get the slide hammer in there and use it effectively.

Seriously..... put the control arm back on loose and attack it with a 2lb hammer - I think you won't gain anything using a 10lb sledge - you wont get it in there for a start!

Have you tried a bit of heat?

I was in the same situation. Used MAP gas torch on the knuckle around ball joint. I heated for at least 5 minutes and then drove ball joint out with the air chisel. It didn't move without heat.


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I was looking for the air rattler tool I mentioned in prior post. These go were two of the tips Indy mechanic had.

Save on Grey Pneumatic - CH117 at ToolTopia.com

and

Amazon.com: Lisle 54640 Pneumatic Tie Rod Rattler: Automotive

I believe he rattle mainly from the bottom. I can also confirm on the right side he did not remove the thrust arm from the ball joint prior but rather used it for leverage to pull down with while rattling. All of this was done with all other parts other still fully installed (well the tire was removed).

G Luck