:iagree:

If you have the right tools, any job is fairly easy.

Make sure you wire brush that rust and apply anti-seize to the new ball joint.

This is the hammer that I used with my air hammer to knock out the ball joint. A chisel will just split the ball joint apart, while a punch may just knock a hole in the ball joint.

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...xTd/s-l225.jpg

This hammer spreads the load of the punch throughout the top of the ball joint.

Also a long barrel air hammer is more effective since the hammer has a longer travel thus more force when it hit.

One is drilled through, the other is blind. You cannot thread them in from the top, as the half-shaft is in the way.

Yeap, its the ball joint that is seated in the Knuckle alright. It's poor design if you ask me. I love it when e39'ers post the 'Oh, use the ball joint removal tool!" God Damn it, I wish I could. Those ball joints are stuck in their faster than an Alabama Tick.

I think this is about right

Its a painful job without an air chisel, as I said, I am good with a grinder and did mine with out damaging the knuckle, but you need time and patients. After you weaken the ball joint housing, then the BFH comes into play. Smash it, bang it, and go to town on it.... it will come out... but it makes you work for the victory.

Good luck.

Last night did front suspension refresh on 05 4.4 with 125k miles. I did expect some struggle, but those ball joints put up some serious fight! On the left side, I had to cut ball out of the socket to remove it! The air hammer helped a lot, but not until major cutting with angle grinder. Both ball joint soaked with penetrating oil for over 24 hours. The whole job took over 4 hours. I spent half the time to complete same work on my 03 3.0 with 200K miles. On both cars these parts never replaced in the past.

The wire brush attachment on the dremel was really good for cleaning all the rust off. Will put everything back together this weekend when the weather warms up!

Is that a 1" hammer head? Was considering that but wasn't sure if that was too big for the top of the balljoint. I got a 3/4" tapered punch and it worked pretty well. It was a lot smaller than I thought it would be, so the 1" will definitely work too and is probably a better choice for the reasons you mentioned.

That is correct. Although I did remove the half shaft from the hub as I am replacing my CV joint at the same time.

Thanks, I got the drivers side out a few days ago with the air hammer and will do the passenger side this weekend. Stay tuned for a video with the air hammer in action!

Wow! I'm surprised you can't get it out with the air hammer from the start. Took me around 5 seconds, although mine was a super-duty Ingersoll Rand air hammer. What punch/hammer did you use on the air hammer? Also my drive axle was removed from the hub so I had more room to work with.

Would the anti-seize, while easing future removal, not compromise the security of the joint once installed?

Referencing the Workshop Manual,

"Keep recess for guide joint, bore in tension strut and guide joint
journal clean and free from grease."

BMW Workshop Manuals > X Series E53 X5 4.8is (N62-S) OFFRD > 2 Repair Instructions > 31 Front Axle > 12 Struts W.rubber Mounts > 3 RA Removing And Installing_replacing Guide Joint In Swivel Bearing

The nut will secure it but I don't lubricate press fittings. They are press fittings for a reason.

Good catch. I will not either. Perhaps the best thing you can do for installation is clean it well with a wire brush or sand paper.