The indy I took my X5 to (Strictly BMW in Bellevue) quoted me 19 hours to do the job using the AGA tool set. So having the car for 3 days sounds about right.

The shop hinted that some of that time included replacing things while they were in there, though they didn't specify exactly what.

I'm hoping that I don't have to do it. They replaced my CCV valves and said to give it a few weeks to let any accumulated crud blow out. I'm on my 3rd week since the CCV's and it's still smoking - though not as much as it was before.

Valve stem resting on cylinder

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps42112f8a.jpg

Valve stem pulled up with needle nose pliers (attention - gently so as not to scratch. Put electrical tape around the jaws)

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...psc4752cc3.jpg

The tech at AGA I talked to said it can be done in 12 hours. I believe doing the compressed air way can take twice as long as the tech also stated that by not doing it that way saved him half the time to do the job now! Keep in mind 12 hours for someone who does this for a living. Im sure me being new to this and the tool is going to take me longer than that for sure!

I was in the same boat as you and replaced the CCV's and still have a smoking issue. Hate to say it but knowing that these are a common issue that would be the next step. Double check for leaky gaskets as that can cause oil to get sucked into the manifold through the CCV's. Hopefully you get lucky. Good luck!

So its pretty down there when its sitting. Key point is to make sure the piston is all the way up when doing this!

Question....after you get the new seal installed when pulling up on the valve and start the reinstallation of the valve spring you use the tool to press the keepers back into place how do you keep the valve from dropping again since theres no pressure? Or are you letting it sit and compressing the spring all the way down while valve is sitting on the piston?

Sometimes when I was too generous with lube, the stem can still slide down when you try to put the keepers on. Then you have to decompress the spring, pull it up again and run some air. It will leak, but it will be enough backpressure to keep it up to install the keepers. This happened maybe twice. The rest of the time, there was no issue.

Piece of advice: take your time. Once you start getting tired, stop (you will, because you will be working a few times on a stool or something, and you will be bending over the engine - this will be taxing on the back). Also, make 100% sure you wrap rags around the open spaces of the engine. Don't forget the opening at the front, where the timing chain goes. You might work on one bank for 2 days (or more, pending on your time). Once you're done for the day, make sure you cover the open engine with a clean cloth, so no dust or dirt will get in. This area, usually is lubricated by already filtered oil, there are tiny passages that can be clogged in a hurry if you don't pay attention.

I was referred to a shop in San Carlos
Bimmers independent service
800 El Camino Real, San Carlos, CA 94070
(650) 591-2474

Ask for Millenko

I have yet to make contact but I will as soon as I can travel.

Yea I wasn't planning on hitting everything out at once or even planning on rushing it. Its not like its my only car so that makes it even better!

Ive been meaning to ask you regarding the intake valves...they appear to be harder to get to so wouldn't that be an issue if theres no air in the cylinders wouldn't the valve drop down to the point where it would be hard to put it back together? How far does the valve drop in the back do you remember? How reachable was it?

Guys, just talked to a BMW master tech and got a quote of 1600$ + parts which is really cheap compared to other shops.BUT, he advised before I decide to bring it in that I should try 20W50 motor oil..I'm like what??
He said yea it would have been a problem when the engine was fairly new but now over 100k there won't be a problem.
He said he's done it on a few smoking n62's and it did the trick ...

I don't know as much as I wanna believe him I think that oil is too thick...what do you think?

Ive actually talked to him a few days ago and was also referred to him from another forum member as well and that his pricing was very reasonable. The forum member stated it was like $1800 or something like that. Anyways Milenko did the AGA way with the tool and stated he would never do that again. He actually charged that forum member way less than what he should have from what he stated to me! His pricing he quoted me was $4000. Im better off driving down to AGA and having them do it as its half that cost. Not trying to sway you off maybe you might get quoted better but that cost was for an X5. Im just going to do it myself!

Just a heads up!