Will do a fuel rail pressure test.both pumps were OE.replaced at the dealer.

Does 11.9V sound ok to you guys?engine off.

No
normal battery voltage is always over 12. There is a chart some where to show the relationship between voltage and battery condition.

found it
attery Failures
An analysis of batteries replaced under warranty shows that many claims could have been avoided had the batteries been maintained in a full state of charge. Batteries must be maintained at all times when vehicles are at a retailer whether they are new cars, used cars, in storage (back lot), on display, or customer cars in for maintenance or repairs. Batteries replaced due to lack of maintenance will not be covered by warranty.

Most Common Causes of Premature Battery Failures
• Failure to maintain proper state of charge.
• Loss of electrolyte due to overcharging or excessive heat.
• Deep discharging (Leaving lights on or other parasitic draws).
• Undercharging of battery.
• Vibration (Loose battery hold down clamp).
• Using tap water (instead of distilled water).
• Corrosion.
• Freezing.
Attached Images

here is the link to the charts as posted
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...hat-could.html

The battery should be bad then.Ill go to interstate and have them check it and replace it .like I said it's 3 months old but that doesn't mean it's good I guess
Thanks for the chart Stephen.

A lot of the battery that you buy are just recycle. Why do you think they charge you a core fee if you don't return your old battery. I had a "new" battery die on me in less then a month after install.

True.but don't you guys think it can be a starter problem too since it just clicks and doesn't turn over the motor and when it does decide to start it just starts like nothing is wrong...
All I'm getting is click click click ...after 5th-10th attempt it starts just fine...

OP, did the battery light turned on? or just the CEL + TransFailSafe?

Did you clear codes and started again? where you able to capture the active codes if the CEL + TransFailSafe turned back on?

To make sure its not voltage related. I suggest you re-charge the battery over night.

Do a load test the next morning (attached the multi-meter or look at real time voltage data via DIS)
- start the vehicle
- turn on (all) accessories
- increase the RPM


Must be 13.70+v ~14v
Anything below < 13v, alternator is not charging (the culprit)
Check the battery after two days (if it can hold the charge), should be 12+v

Your posted voltage reading was close to what I have experienced last Jan 2014, it was a sign that my alternator bearings are about to fail slowly but surely. BUT then again it can be different from you case.

GL

I agree
:iagree:
The OP must fully Charge the battery (over night) and load test, then check the battery after two days (if it can maintain the state of charge).

Weak battery is bad for the alternator, so we need to start from a steady state which a fully charge battery. eliminate the battery and alternator as the culprit.