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If you have more flow because of blow-by and/or air leaking into the crankcase (eg. rear main seal) and you don't have the baffling to keep up, then you have more oil going with it and probably a check engine light. Like I said before, people don't realize how much luck there is involved in having this work. Most of this thread is a lot of BS.
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I also can't really give a true assessment of the effectiveness. I went about 7500 to 8000 miles after the change with my normal driving at the time which included freeway driving. I then changed jobs and now have a very short commute and have been doing very little freeway driving. My consumption went way down. But, doing some reading on NewTis I found that oil consumption going down would be expected with around town driving vs freeway driving. When I was doing my previous driving my consumption went down very little with the mod. So, like I said before, I'm not sold on this mod actually working. I have to get smoged in the next month to renew my registration. We'll see if they call me on it. If they do, I'll be back to the stock system. Then we can see what happens with oil consumption with mostly around town driving. Interesting experiment. |
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No, PCV1124DL is too restrictive for the volume of airflow needed. You need to keep *at least* the diameter of the OE hoses for the blowby to be properly evacuated. Fram PCV meets the exact size of OE hoses (16mm) and is already used in engines with a displacement much larger than M54, so there are no worries regarding flow of gasses. Secondly, you need to vent the crankcase, not the intake. Connecting F to back of intake (02pilot port) is senseless, that will make the vacuum past TB suck air after MAF, increasing the amount measured by MAF and increasing mixture adaptations. F port is already connected to the intake by the hoses merging to brake booster. Third, I indeed had this CCV-to-PCV modification done, as presented in previously posts. Kept OE hose size all over, exiting VC with 19mm to catch can, then 16mm from CC to Fram PCV and continuing with 16mm to vacuum distributor above intake keeping all original ports for proper distribution of vacuum to all cylinders. Kept original hose plugs for look and proper sealing. Capped vaccum port at the back of the intake. Then connected the F port to the oil dipstick old CCV port, but installed a one way valve between (not letting the oil being sucked into intake if something backfires; crankcase sucks filtered and *already measured* air from the intake elbow). Car runs great, fuel trims at max +/- 2-3%, baffled catch can does its job, not able to make a definitive oil consumption assesment as not moved much on highways with these COVID restrictions. Pics: https://postimg.cc/PL2Ktg3x https://postimg.cc/d7v6wrqF https://postimg.cc/JGDPqRTf https://postimg.cc/bs7LV4Ws https://postimg.cc/sBVFqvSj https://postimg.cc/NK8qd1KC https://postimg.cc/CRppCvxf https://postimg.cc/GBWSWqbw |
Things fell apart, but....
I did this mod about a year ago (exactly following the original post) and then recently started throwing P0171 and P0174 codes and she was running like crap. I built my own DIY smoke tester and fired her up and quickly found I had a good leak there I should have had a cap per this original instruction:
"After that you have to plug the port on the opposite end of the air distribution piece, I found a red plastic cap that fit in very tight." I didn't have anything I could find that would fit great so I had cobbled something together and it had come loose causing this issue. Well, long story short I found that the following product fit very well for this application: Dorman rubber expansion plug #02608. I bought it at O'Reilly an it was around $4.00. You should be able to search this and find it about anywhere that sells auto parts. There is a small nut on there you tighten. I am highly confident this will never come loose and I am impressed how smooth things are running now compared to what I was used to. Good luck all! |
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