Finally, I have succeeded in replacing the ballast! I was able to do it by removing the front half of the plastic wheel well, and then the black plastic subframe (this was passenger side, so no oil cooler in the way). No need to remove the bumper or fender for this. I didn't try to remove the entire headlight for now, but it might be possible to remove it once the subframe is out of the way. I'll try that another time when I get ready to refinish or replace my headlight lenses. Might post some pics & a little how-to spill, later. Right now it's great just to have two headlights again! One shop I talked to said I might be looking at around $1,600. I got by with a $65 ballast from eBay, a few hours of frustration, and a couple of scraped up fingers.