Weird brake messages
 

2011 x5d 59,500 miles. I bought in Dec 2016 with 42,500 miles. It had new brakes and tires when I purchased. I started getting idrive message about changing brake fluid a week ago (I added a ounce or two) , now I'm getting change pad message. Idrive says I still have 27,000 miles until pads need changing. I am doing complete fluid change on vehicle this week. Everything, tranny, diff, TC, coolant, brake fluid, power steering, 12 pack or two of Becks for me.


Question is, and may be stupid but can you just bleed these brakes like in the old days, crack bleeder valve while someone pumps brakes. Seems simple but Being BMW I not 100% sure. I've searched on here for brakes but it seemed all were pads and bedding the pads and rotors. I've also read and watched 100 tutorials on everything else I'm going to change.

Thanks, Kevin
Wow after searching some more I found this https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...problem-9.html now I'm even more scared.

I would leave the brake fluid change to a dealer or competent Indy. The brake fluid will trigger a message after so much time/mileage. I forget the number but ours triggered. I've done my own brake flushes on other BMWs but the dealer only charged like $120 so I let them do it. That was worth the time savings to me. So I did the rotors, pads, and sensors then had them do the fluid.

Any chance the shop dodnt replace both pad sensors and reset everything????

Are you getting a RED change pad light?

Given all you are trying to get done, don't sweat the brake fluid. It should not be a performance issue. It is pretty easy tho. (Just a routine fluid change that is...a complete 'I ran it dry when I ruptured a line and need to refill it' is WAY WAY more of a PITA. Once the ABS pump is empty, it is a bear to get all the air bubbles out and flushed. Just the main fluid path from reservoir to MC to wheels is easy.)

Thanks guys, Don't know about the sensors. First time I got a brake message in two years of driving. The more I read the more I wonder what is the best. Some use pressure bleeder on top of reservoir to push the fluid and some use the suction at the wheel bleeder. I didn't want to spend $50 to $100 on a tool just to use it once every 2-3 years. Although I do have a top-sider oil change vacuum system I've been using for oil changes, I just had a idea about using it on the wheel bleeder valve. That's what I'll use to siphon the brake fluid and power steering and other fluids That don't have a drain plug.



ARD-->> Yes the red brake light is on the instrument cluster. Also the car on lift yellow light is on at start up.




Thanks,
Kevin

You can bleed conventionally, just be sure the reservoir never goes empty. If you push air into the ABS unit, you'll need INPA to remove it.

^ What they said. On my e53 x5 I used a combination if vacuum at the calipers and then helper on the brake pedal. Did one complete round with vacuum, then the last round with helper on pedal. Be sure reservoir does not go dry.

On the e70 the message came up and just had the dealer do the fluid after I serviced all the rotors/pads. But process would be the same.

After looking at pads I would say they have about 4-6mm left. I may have to do a complete brake job now.

I tried to take off a tire to get a more accurate measurement of pads and micrometer on rotors, but of course a 800 bound gorilla tightened the lug nuts to about 1000 ft/lbs. 4 way lug wrench=no way, tried socket and broke the socket. I have a set of mm impact sockets on order and 6ft breaker bar lol. I did manage to change the power steering fluid. So I got something accomplished at least besides going to napa and getting brake fluid (pentosin lv 2 qts 1 qt of cfh 11s, and 2 more jack stands.

Thanks krystalworks that's a good idea.

You can pickup the 17mm impact socket and breaker bar at Harbor Freight for ~$25

Yep. Great place to save some money. I just bought a set of 12 point impact sockets from there in order to do the tension arm and lower control arm 27mm nuts. Actually did complete suspension including upper wishbones and strut assembly rebuild. Truck feels brand new. Cost of the socket set with 20% off coupon was $21! Can't beat that.

Kgrem1, I hear you on over-tightened lugs. Just removed the wheels on my mom's Infiniti fx35 to remove the bumper (replacing headlight assemblies). Anyway the monkeys at discount tire must have given it at least 10 too many uggaduggas on the impact and it took my 3.5 ft breaker to remove them. Are first I thought they were cross threaded. :dunno:

update
 

Ok I/we got the lug nuts off with this ttps://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket/titan-1-2-in-drive-17-mm-non-marring-lug-nut-socket/453035_0_0 and an old torque wrench. I had some younger relatives over and showed them how to bleed brakes and bust lug nuts loose:D. Crystalworks I used the dual method of vacuum at bleeder and pumping brake method and it worked great(used 1 liter of fluid) Vacuumed out all old fluid from resevoir. Pads still look very good and rotors measured 28.8-29mm with minimum stamped on edge of 28.4 so I think I'm ok for a while. (After reading on here it seems you can still put a new set of pads on even @ the minimum) I still can't clear the brake message with Carly app.

https://www.amazon.com/America-5060T...+oil+extractor


How do I find which sensor is causing this and can I just put in new sensor on old pads???

FWIW:It has been raining for a week here and I was wondering if water shorted something? Also I just remembered, the last time I drove the back up camera malfunction showed on Idrive screen.:dunno: