^How long have you had it? How many miles? BMW's are expensive to own as a third or fourth owner as much of the maintenance is usually deferred by previous owners. This snowballs and causes more issues and costs.

I dumped $5000 (parts alone) into a heavily abused 5 series wagon last year. But I was able to buy it for $1200... So I've got a well sorted one for the cost of a regular example in need if the deferred maintenance.

DMTL won't prevent the vehicle from starting afaik. Very common issue.

I agree. The loss of communication could be an issue or it might just be a result of the battery replacement.



OP, when you say the vehicle doesn't do anything else, can you take a video? Does iDrive work / does it behave like a normal X5 except it doesn't start? If that is the case, starters are very common on those motors and that might be the problem. I second scanning for codes (plug for myself: if you have an android phone & a generic ELM327 bluetooth adapter, I wrote a free app to scan for BMW specific codes on the engine ECU https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...p-android.html ). If you don't pull any serious codes from the DME or CAS, you'll need to do some manual diagnostics. Confirm the presence of fuel pressure (should be around 70 psi with the vehicle off iirc) and you should hear the pump prime when you open a door. If that checks out, I would try to probe the starter if you can get to it. Look for 12v at the large lug on the starter at all times & on the small plug when the starter button is pressed. If both are present and the car isn't starting, the problem is the starter. The typical failure mode is that it works fine and then all of a sudden you press the start button and nothing happens. No click, the engine doesn't turn, but the car behaves normally in what would normally be the "run" position.

We have owned it for about two years. I bought it against my better judgement for my wife. (We were newlyweds at the time) It has a 120,000 miles on it. I have owned a 325i before so i had somewhat of an idea what i was getting into. Besides oil changes, tires and brakes we have done struts, ignition coils, changed transmission fluid with new seal, new battery, new valve cover gasket, new ignition coils, new plugs, new water pump and thermostat and there was an electrical issue with the transfer case. I can not recall what was wrong with it. It has just been one thing after the other with this one.

Consider your ground straps. Do a search for threads where the strap was bad...see how to diagnose, compare symptoms. By using a jumper cable you can 'bypass' the engne/chassis ground strap to see if it has failed.


Im not sure what PRECISE ITEM will cause the symptom you see. It is possibly that something failed, maybe damaged the JBE or FRM, which causes odd electrical stuff.


Finally, I know having a car problem can be frustrating...chillax. Complaining to us...badmouthing BMWs as if that will embarass the marque into maing your one car 'behave' is pointless.... ) Also, having crappy indy mechanics AND having to rely on BMW dealers is brutal. (Oh, the dealer prolly didnt tell you squat because they wanted $1100 first. Why would they give you a speck of info that might help? they are thieves with fancy coffee machines....)

So i plan on checking the starter when i get off work this afternoon. As i said i have ordered the scanner but it will not be here until tuesday. I have checked the grounding straps and did not find any loose or corroded. Sometime this weekend i will take a video of what is going on. THanks for everyones help :)

Years ago, while looking at various properties, I had a real estate agent tell me that "anything can be fixed with enough money".



In all seriousness though, having enough of the right info from the vehicle is going to be key, so that scanner will pay for itself many times over if you plan on keeping this one for a while. And, given enough detail, all the smart/experienced people here will eventually point you in the right direction assuming you don't figure out the root cause first.

I think with the help im getting on here i will be able to solve the issue. Its great to have a community like this that helps people so much.

Then at least you aren't inheriting someone else's problems. @ 120,000 miles you're at the mileage where the vehicle will start asking for a lot. Cooling system, idler/tensioner pulleys and belts, complete front suspension, coils, plugs, alternator, etc will all start needing attention around your mileage. From your list you've already started seeing and addressing some of those needs. Be prepared, after you figure this one out, something else will need doing. I tend to proactively replace a lot of parts at certain mileages as preventative maintenance just so I feel like I'm in control of things rather than the car. :D

The scanner will serve you well. Hopefully it will point you/us in the right direction.

Okay scanner came in. Scanned the car and here is what i got....

P2401 Evap system leak detection pump control circuit low

P2419 Evap system switching valve control circuit low

P1449 Diagnostic module tank leakage, pump current too high

Quick Scan Results:

DME Fault 15

Parking brake EMF Fault 2

Roof function centre FZD Fault 1

Drivers side footwell module FRM/KBM Fault 13

Junction box electronics ZGM fault 6

Do you have the actual codes? BMW codes are most useful (won't have the P in the beginning). The evap/diagnostic module can be ignored. The dme, footwell module and junction box may be a concern or it could be nothing.