There were several codes I was able to pull out. One even said "Low Brake Fluid" which I'm surprised at, but I'll check that shortly as it had a recent checkup.

Here are the displays. It is still going back in to park. If there are other modules or areas I need to check, I can do that.

Does the scanner tell you if the codes are active or in shadow memory? These vehicles will store historical codes so even though you can read them, they may have occurred long ago. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram to see if it might be something obvious. I got the parking gear sensor message before but it's because I messed up reinstalling the valve body & didn't have the sensor engaged. You would get the same message if you tried to engage the mechanical neutral override. In fact, I would cycle the neutral override and see if that helps. You can do that by getting the red handle from the emergency tools in the trunk (whatever the back area is called), removing the rubber from the bottom of your cup holders, and removing the false bottom on the cup holder nearest the driver. Set the parking brake, insert the red handle into the socket below, turn it, and release. The transmission should go into neutral and then go back into park.

I'll try that. It has been towed before (long story) and I had to use that.

This morning, I was able to get it to drive and it would stay. I'm not confident to drive it out of the drive way though. I went forward a bit, then put it in reverse, then it didn't want to move and went automatically back into park. Shortly after that, the scanner was delivered and I pulled the codes. I can erase all the codes and restart and see what will come up if that will help.

yes, do that

Cleared every fault. Started her back up again. She would go into gear and I drove just down the driveway and stopped. Put it in reverse and got an error again.

Still goes immediately back to Park.

Repulled codes.

Well that's a different fault... that means the transmission thinks it is slipping badly and parked itself to protect against further damage. I'm guessing it's not accurate and something else is wrong though.

Read post #2


https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1410443


This feels weird...your errors are all over the place. And doesn't seem to match up with rain, getting wet, etc.


Say...how is the battery and charge status? Wonder of low power/current to some modules is causing them to be confused?


Any history w you tranny that might be important?

I had several different faults when I first ran the codes so I erased all of them, re-ran the scan without doing anything else and got zero (with no changes). Then recranked the car, put it in drive, felt the gears engage (slight shake), and pulled forward a little. I put it in reverse and got that most recent error, the gear symbol on the center display, and the "drive moderately to BMW service" message on the console. That's when I scanned the codes again and got that clutch code. I can do it all again this morning and see if anything new comes up.

History of the vehicle. A family friend owned it since new. In 2017, my parents bought it, had 53K on it. For the next 3 years, my parents barely drove it, to a tune of <1000 miles/year. They're in their 80's and mostly drove their other car if they needed to get around. They then decided the X5 was not comfortable enough and wasn't driven enough and I bought it from them. They took good care of it, had it serviced through BMW mostly, and I got it was ~56K on it in March. Since March, I've put about 1200 miles on it (work mostly). It's gotten more use in the last 3 months than it is used to in the last couple years really.

I haven't noticed anything with the transmission and it always drove very well since I've had it. I was shocked Monday when this started.

When I look at all the codes that were there that I think are drivetrain/transmission related:

A0B1 Input, selector-lever position, implausible.
507B Parking-gear sensors implausible
55C3 AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
A817 Steering-wheel angle invalid

The ones above were there and I had cleared them. I'll see if any come back up today. It seems like it's a selector/programming input type issue. But I am only guessing, have no real clue.

Had 3 GWS Gear Selector Switch faults yesterday too before I wiped everything.

E099 Message,damper program
A833 Button, deblocking, jammed
A83A Undervoltage

Also the reversing camera is giving me a Transport Mode Active fault which keeps coming back. Just for that section which is strange.

I did unhook the battery on Monday thinking maybe I can reset the system while I was checking to make sure I had a good connection. Wondering if the "undervoltage" came from that. I didn't see that code come back after I wiped everything.

I'll recheck things today and can do whatever you suggest. I've been hesitant to drive it out of the drive way, but can if needed.

Tried things again this morning. All faults cleared. Strangely, one continues to stay...
Rear camera... A811 Transport Mode Active

Don't know why that is staying just with the reversing camera.

Anyway, with everything cleared, I started it back up, put it in drive and it would go back to park. When I put into drive and give it a little gas, it'll stay, and she'll move forward a bit. I made a loop around the drive/yard to end up back to where I was. Put it in reverse to back it to it's location and got the "gear icon" in front of me and the the "drive moderately" display on the main screen again.

Pulled codes:

1 in EGS Transmission Control

4F91 Ratio monitoring, clutch A

This code has come both yesterday evening and this morning. When put into drive or reverse, immediately goes back to park again.

Any ideas on what to try next or check?

It's worth checking your battery if it's old as it will cause all sorts of weird faults - even with the engine running. However, I'm beginning to wonder if you have an actual transmission fault. Your most recent codes seem consistent with a bad bridge seal inside the transmission. You can see some details here (not the best video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ljD1HYymoA

When those fail, it is usually a sudden failure and will set the ratio codes you are getting. Even if it hasn't failed, my recommendation is to replace it and the other four seals to the valve body. Unfortunately, it seems like it would be a pain without a lift but can be done. The process looks like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCvmdo1bLLw and the parts you need should be this https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...24152333907kt3