Originally Posted by Legokcen (Post 1186700)

I had several different faults when I first ran the codes so I erased all of them, re-ran the scan without doing anything else and got zero (with no changes). Then recranked the car, put it in drive, felt the gears engage (slight shake), and pulled forward a little. I put it in reverse and got that most recent error, the gear symbol on the center display, and the "drive moderately to BMW service" message on the console. That's when I scanned the codes again and got that clutch code. I can do it all again this morning and see if anything new comes up.

History of the vehicle. A family friend owned it since new. In 2017, my parents bought it, had 53K on it. For the next 3 years, my parents barely drove it, to a tune of <1000 miles/year. They're in their 80's and mostly drove their other car if they needed to get around. They then decided the X5 was not comfortable enough and wasn't driven enough and I bought it from them. They took good care of it, had it serviced through BMW mostly, and I got it was ~56K on it in March. Since March, I've put about 1200 miles on it (work mostly). It's gotten more use in the last 3 months than it is used to in the last couple years really.

I haven't noticed anything with the transmission and it always drove very well since I've had it. I was shocked Monday when this started.

When I look at all the codes that were there that I think are drivetrain/transmission related:

A0B1 Input, selector-lever position, implausible.
507B Parking-gear sensors implausible
55C3 AWD limp-home control activated. No DSC specified nominal torque
A817 Steering-wheel angle invalid

The ones above were there and I had cleared them. I'll see if any come back up today. It seems like it's a selector/programming input type issue. But I am only guessing, have no real clue.

Had 3 GWS Gear Selector Switch faults yesterday too before I wiped everything.

E099 Message,damper program
A833 Button, deblocking, jammed
A83A Undervoltage

Also the reversing camera is giving me a Transport Mode Active fault which keeps coming back. Just for that section which is strange.

I did unhook the battery on Monday thinking maybe I can reset the system while I was checking to make sure I had a good connection. Wondering if the "undervoltage" came from that. I didn't see that code come back after I wiped everything.

I'll recheck things today and can do whatever you suggest. I've been hesitant to drive it out of the drive way, but can if needed.

Originally Posted by ard (Post 1186718)

I see Cyrix echoed my suspension above...


I would buy a brand new, proper AGM battery. With minimal driving over the last few years, the car has likely been running way under charged. Your recent work in an don it, with the power 'woken up' may have pushed it over.


Your erriors are spurious (ie not one area, one related thing)- seemingly disparate sources...(transmission....engine...steering sensor....)hence voltage issues seem to be a possible source.


Also, a battery is a maintenance item..4-8 years. Less if theyve been abused. Adn parking a car for weeks on end will abuse these batteries




I know this is a bit 'shot in the dark-y' and 'if every time there is any issue you always say 'battery' you are bound to be right once or twice'. But hey...


GL!

Originally Posted by Cyrix2k (Post 1186731)

Honestly, it's hard to make heads or tails of it sometimes. Yours looks like it has been in a discharged state more than most I look at. When I see weird electronic issues, I always start with the battery just to have a good base. You will need to "register" the new battery (I'm guessing your tool can do that) if you buy the same capacity and type as what is currently installed which should be a 90 Ah AGM in your case. If you have an Advance Auto nearby, this is what I use https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...m_content=ITEM

"AutoCraft Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA"

If you look for a coupon, you should be able to get 25% off iirc. My total cost after core refund (I usually turn in totally shot batteries and keep the working battery) was $166 after tax.

Originally Posted by Legokcen (Post 1186764)

Installed and registered a new AGM battery, same as what was there. Date on the old one was 9/15, so almost 5 years old. Anyway, new battery in and registered. Started off with a myriad of codes since it sat with no batter for a couple hours.

All codes were wiped and restarted. It restarted well and I did another scan. All clean. I put it in drive and all felt good. I drove down the drive way in D until the end. Stopped before entering the road and as soon as I stopped, the transmission message came on the screen. Rescanned and got:

4F84 Ratio monitoring, clutch D

Drove down the road for 1/4 mile to turn around (I didn't want to put it in reverse and have it lock the gears out again. Was in limp mode the whole time.

While driving, I erased the codes. Opened back up and could drive normal again. Got to the house and pulled in. Got another error when I stopped in the driveway.

Again, 4F84 Ratio monitoring, clutch D.

Goes right back into park immediately.

So, not the battery, clearing the codes brings it back after a little drive. Earlier codes were clutch A, now it is clutch D. What would be a good next step?

Originally Posted by Cyrix2k (Post 1186775)

My suggestion is to do the bridge seal which will require dropping the pan & valve body.

It's not super difficult, the big things to remember are to be careful with the sealing sleeve and to be sure to engage the park sensor while reinstalling the valve body. It is possible to bend the pins for the electrical connector on the transmission and that is an expensive fix. Also as general advice, crack the fill plug loose as the first step so you know you can get fluid back in; do NOT open it with the vehicle off or you will spill fluid everywhere. Otherwise the most challenging part is getting the fluid level correct as it must be done with the X5 running, level, and at specific temperature.

Here's a good set of instructions. You don't need to drop the front driveshaft and I think the fill plug is an 8mm allen. https://www.bmwrepairguide.com/bmw-e...ent-zf-6hp19x/ This link should have the proper tightening sequence and torque values http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf

Originally Posted by Cyrix2k (Post 1186777)

You'll want the whole kit from FCP (or your vendor of choice). Do the other seals while you're in there, the sealing sleeve needs to come out to pull the valve body and is usually damaged during removal, and the transmission filter is integrated into the pan so it's good to replace anyway. Technically the pan is only supposed to be one time use, but I think if you messed up on assembly you could get away with reusing it. You will also need a pump to get the new fluid into the transmission - advance auto carries them.

Originally Posted by Legokcen (Post 1186778)

Thank you. Is it more than this?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...24152333907kt3