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  #1  
Old 06-16-2010, 01:31 PM
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Strange issue on a 323. Would appreciate suggestions from techies

Some of you may remember my long post about rebuilding my daughter's 1999 323 after she crashed it http://www.xoutpost.com/off-topic/lo...er-bimmer.html
The car has been working like a charm since and until recently when the following issues started. Every so often when the car is parked it would start flashing its parking lights, same lights that flash when we lock or unlock the car, and would keep flashing for sometime. It does not make a difference if the car is locked or unlocked. Also the battery keeps draining every few days. I bought a brand new battery but that did not fix the problem. The battery keeps draining and the car keeps flashing. I do not know for sure if the two issues (flashing lights and battery drain) are related. Before going to more investigation I was wondering if any of our bimmer knowledgeable members here had any idea or suggestion. My next move I guess is trying to identify what causes the battery drain by using the old school approach (I am a pretty old guy now ) measuring the amp at the battery + and removing fuse one after the other to see how the amp measurement changes.
Any input, idea, suggestion would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2010, 02:47 PM
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Sounds like one of the crash sensors is still in effect and/or needs to be checked, which is why the hazard lights keep flashing. Maybe try disconnecting the battery, touching the cables (not posts) together and leaving them like that overnight to completely drain everything dry. Otherwise, it might be time to get it hooked up to the MODIC and start seeing what sensors are still triggered.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:38 PM
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Did not think about a crash sensor but that would indeed explain the flashing.
Thanks
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:09 PM
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It could just be the way the sensor is sitting on the fender, etc. For example, my bike has a tip over sensor on the bottom of the tank so it'll cut off the fuel if it's leaned too far over. It could just be something simple like that, so give it a quick visual and give the battery reset a try this evening.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's
325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex

600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's

135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
It could just be the way the sensor is sitting on the fender, etc. For example, my bike has a tip over sensor on the bottom of the tank so it'll cut off the fuel if it's leaned too far over. It could just be something simple like that, so give it a quick visual and give the battery reset a try this evening.
I did leave the battery disconnected all night as well as kept the two cables touching each other. Will see if that fixes the problem but now I get the airbag light on for some reason.

Last edited by alpac; 06-17-2010 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 06-17-2010, 04:08 PM
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is there an aftermarket alarm system on it?
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Old 06-17-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpac View Post
I did leave the battery disconnected all night as well as kept the two cables touching each other. Will see if that fixes the problem but now I get the airbag light on for some reason.
Sounds like it was already an issue then, now you just know what it is. I've got a Peake ABS tool, but you're kind of far away from me for me to be able to help anymore. If you want to pay for shipping back and forth for the reader, we can do that. It'll tell you the code, reset it and narrow down what you might still need to replace.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's
325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex

600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's

135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
Sounds like it was already an issue then, now you just know what it is. I've got a Peake ABS tool, but you're kind of far away from me for me to be able to help anymore. If you want to pay for shipping back and forth for the reader, we can do that. It'll tell you the code, reset it and narrow down what you might still need to replace.
That is a nice offer thanks
but I think it is time for me to invest in the right tool. I assume I would need the BMW Airbag Scanner/Reset Tool in this case, right? Would it also tell me which crash sensor failed?
I found this on ebay, is that the right one?
Peake Research R5/SRS-16 BMW Airbag Scanner/Reset~Tool: eBay Motors (item 220232830371 end time Jun-26-10 18:41:33 PDT)
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  #9  
Old 06-19-2010, 05:05 PM
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Honestly, if you going to buy any Peake tool for regular use, get the FCX for being able to check and clear engine codes...you'll use it 10x more than you'd ever use the SRS one. Also, I'd double check with the seller to see if they're including the adapter cable that is in the picture. The Peake tools usually go into the round port under the hood, but if your car doesn't have one (like my 01 X5), you'll need what's called an AB03 adapter that converts the round plug to an OBDII type of plug. I just made my own since I didn't want to spend like $80 for a cable. If you change your mind, let me know.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's
325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex

600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's

135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2010, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m5james View Post
Honestly, if you going to buy any Peake tool for regular use, get the FCX for being able to check and clear engine codes...you'll use it 10x more than you'd ever use the SRS one. Also, I'd double check with the seller to see if they're including the adapter cable that is in the picture. The Peake tools usually go into the round port under the hood, but if your car doesn't have one (like my 01 X5), you'll need what's called an AB03 adapter that converts the round plug to an OBDII type of plug. I just made my own since I didn't want to spend like $80 for a cable. If you change your mind, let me know.
Thanks again buddy for the advice I will go for the FCX then. The 323 has the round port but I would still like building the cable in case I need it later for another bimmer. Do you have the wiring diagram from round port to OBD2 port?
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