Please post your pics of an X5M w/ Aftermarket Wheels

[jlee]

I'm looking for a set of aftermarket wheels that will fit an X5M.

There doesn't seem to be alot of options. Can we get a thread going of whats out there ?

Thanks

Jeff

[LeMansX5]

[NOVAwhiteX5M]

rim options are there tires are the hard part

[donho]

Originally Posted by NOVAwhiteX5M

rim options are there tires are the hard part

Does the truck require Runflats? or has anyone replaced them with regular performance radials?

[998M]

I have run-flats but you can replace with non run-flats. Just don’t' get a flat. I have heard the ride is much better. I am concidering the non run-flats.

[TahoeM3]

Just checked the weight on the runflats...holy schnikeys! They weigh 41 lbs each for fronts and 47 lbs each for rears. That's crazy! The previous set of tires I had on my 4.8 in the same sizes were Toyo Proxes and they are 34 lbs front and 37 lbs rear...add it up and that's a 34 lb difference in rotating mass. Removing that would be the equivalent of dropping 340 lbs or adding 34 hp!

The first thing I'm going to do is to swap out tires. I am sure it will make a huge difference.

[998M]

Originally Posted by TahoeM3

Just checked the weight on the runflats...holy schnikeys! They weigh 41 lbs each for fronts and 47 lbs each for rears. That's crazy! The previous set of tires I had on my 4.8 in the same sizes were Toyo Proxes and they are 34 lbs front and 37 lbs rear...add it up and that's a 34 lb difference in rotating mass. Removing that would be the equivalent of dropping 340 lbs or adding 34 hp!

The first thing I'm going to do is to swap out tires. I am sure it will make a huge difference.

Yikes. Very interesting. That scares me knowing I am running BMW wheels Style 215 wheels that are heavy and run-flats. 85lbs for the rears!

Would you share the math so I can figure out how big of an anchor I am dragging.

[TahoeM3]

Originally Posted by 998M

Yikes. Very interesting. That scares me knowing I am running BMW wheels Style 215 wheels that are heavy and run-flats. 85lbs for the rears!

Would you share the math so I can figure out how big of an anchor I am dragging.

The general rule of thumb is that every pound of rotating mass lost is equal to 10 pounds of non-rotating mass on a car. So if you drop 10 lbs worth of tire, it will be like dropping 100 lbs from the body. The reason is that rotating objects like a wheel require more force to accelerate. The further the weights from the center of rotation, the more force required to turn it (think of an ice skater spinning and then bringing her arms closer to her body causing her to spin faster). So run flats, which have most of their weight on the outside edge of the tire, are the worst offenders. They are absolutely the worst choice for performance but are chosen for safety reasons.

Weight is the enemy of performance, or course. Losing weight improves power-to-weight ratio, and the ruled thumb here is that every 10 lbs of weight loss in a car (non-rotating), is like adding one hp. So 34 lbs of rotating mass lost equals 340 lbs of non-rotating mass lost equals 34 hp gained. That's not even taking into account handling improvement on losing unsprung mass. I really saw a difference on my Aston Martin when I changed wheel/tires to larger but lighter ones. I saved about 15 lbs and could definitely feel it, so 34lbs will make a huge difference on this car.

[donho]

Originally Posted by TahoeM3

The general rule of thumb is that every pound of rotating mass lost is equal to 10 pounds of non-rotating mass on a car. So if you drop 10 lbs worth of tire, it will be like dropping 100 lbs from the body. The reason is that rotating objects like a wheel require more force to accelerate. The further the weights from the center of rotation, the more force required to turn it (think of an ice skater spinning and then bringing her arms closer to her body causing her to spin faster). So run flats, which have most of their weight on the outside edge of the tire, are the worst offenders. They are absolutely the worst choice for performance but are chosen for safety reasons.

Weight is the enemy of performance, or course. Losing weight improves power-to-weight ratio, and the ruled thumb here is that every 10 lbs of weight loss in a car (non-rotating), is like adding one hp. So 34 lbs of rotating mass lost equals 340 lbs of non-rotating mass lost equals 34 hp gained. That's not even taking into account handling improvement on losing unsprung mass. I really saw a difference on my Aston Martin when I changed wheel/tires to larger but lighter ones. I saved about 15 lbs and could definitely feel it, so 34lbs will make a huge difference on this car.

I am very familiar with reducing of rotating mass.
I used to race a mustang with N/A small block ford that made 902 HP. I used the lightest of all internals when it went together. rotating mass makes much more of a difference over standrad weight reduction

I think I am definitely going to the Contis all seasons. Checkout the weights

[donho]

Now if I could find a local shop that would pre order me a set of matching wheels in powder coated black. Take my wheels on exchange+cost of powder coating and then mount the new contis. I would be set.

When I had my ML55, I had East Coast in Harrison order a set of chromed AMG wheels and then when they arrived, they did the swap out. It save from having the vehicle sit on jackstands and having to cart around 4 large tires/wheels. I will call Billy on Monday and see if he has a supplier that can do that.

Anyone else in NJ that does something like that?