2007 X3 Battery Replacement

[JCL]

There is lots of discussion here on X5 batteries, but not much on the X3, hence this post.

Vehicle is coming up to 7 years of age. Just starting to get a slight hesitation on initial cranking. No problem starting it yet, but I decided to do it today while I controlled the time and place, since the original battery doesn't owe me anything at this point. I could try and push it another year, but we are planning to be in Calgary and Banff, parking outside at -20 C and below over the next two weeks, so today was the day.

Canadian Tire list an Eliminator ELM48/L3/H6 replacement battery, with a 48 month free replacement. Measured the same size, had two side vents (although I did have to switch the plug to use the vent on the other side)

Fits physically, although the lower clamp engages and holds the battery before the top strap is tight, so this battery must be about 2 mm shorter than the original, where the fold down handle is. Shimmed the top strap with a business card so it won't ever rattle. Lower clamp holds it securely in any case.

Original battery was 570 CA, 120 reserve. New one is 760 CCA/910 CA, 120 reserve. Decided there was no need for a fancier AGM battery since the E83 X3 doesn't have the sort of electrical draw that plagues the E70 and newer vehicles.

Battery was $129 CDN, plus $15 core charge refunded on return of the old battery. Changed it in the store parking lot, and got my core charge back 10 minutes after buying the battery.

Canadian Tire customer advisor had stopped me and asked who was installing it when I originally said BMW. They have a history of customer issues with BMW vehicles needing resetting. In their computer system, the 2007 X3 is noted as needing a computer reset. I told them that I didn't have an IBS (and I checked again, to make sure, because frankly I had never looked at the battery cables), so didn't require an initialization. They relaxed and said no issue, I seemed to know what I was doing. When I connected the new battery I had a 4x4 light on the dash, which I resolved by initializing the steering angle sensor (one cycle full lock to lock). Cars cranks instantly now. Had to reset the clock, that was it. Great accessibility to change the battery. 10 mm open end wrench for the terminals. 13 mm deep socket for the hold down bracket.

Just thinking about running costs. In almost 7 years with this vehicle we have replaced a battery, and a RH electric mirror (it stopped responding to the switch). Wiper blades twice. And a coolant flush. Plus two oil changes after the prepaid service ended. Tires at 80,000 km or so, from memory. Around 90,000 km now, and that has been it. Original brakes front and rear, lots of pad left, even with trailer towing occasionally. In my mind, that is a remarkably low running cost. Too bad they don't make them anymore, we'd buy another.

[motordavid]

JCL,
Good to read of another X that has served well/run well, and hasn't cost an exorbitant amount to use for several years. The driver is no slouch in the info/tech/smarts dept either...

When I first saw the thread title I thought, "Jeff is seeking tips on getting a freakin new batt?!"

Hope all is well with you and your Fam.
Best Regards, David

[MADBMWX3]

I replaced my original battery 7 yrs later--not because I had issues, but because I figured it had enough.

[Gee3]

After 9 years I decided to get a new battery. The OE battery still worked but I didn't want to be caught out in the cold if it decided to die. Plus after 9 years I thought it served me well but it was time to retire it.

I ended up getting a replacement from Costco. Fit perfectly and was under $100. Had it for several months and it's served me well so far. I thought I read that the Costco batteries were made by Energizer or some other big name battery manufacturer.

[Elvis 3.0]

JCL- thanks for the post. I am returning to the fold after being out of the mix and retiring my second faithful E53 and diving into to a '10 X3. Reading your praises over the years and you too coming from the X5 world in addition to highly respecting every opinion you have ever provided due to your vast knowledge not only on these vehicles but on the engineering of every last item the works in conjunction with them, here's my question-

My wife's 335i ('09) needed to have its battery programmed by the dealer after I installed it (proper specs, forget which one, purchased from autozone). Basically, the dash lights and dials were inoperable after the battery swap.

So, no I just picked a '10 X3 less than 40k miles and has what I assume is the original battery. The 'eye' tester reads dark not glowing green. SO - should I charge it, or simply replace it? And are you aware with any issues with not having the dealer program a 2010? That is do you think by installing it myself that I may have the same experience as with the 335i and therefore just go to the dealer in the first place if they will have to program it anyway?

Thanks

-elvis

[JCL]

Elvis

The 2010 is the same platform as our 2007, so I would expect it to have the same electrical system even though it is three years newer.

OEM shows that your model uses the same battery cable as ours, so I don't think you will have the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) which is the device on the positive battery cable that analyzes the battery. That suggests that no programming will be required.

I could be wrong, it would be worth inspecting it visually.

Also, check to see if you have an AGM battery or not. It shouldn't be, but again, worth checking.

Vehicle miles won't matter for battery life, but four years is a little soon for it to be failing. We got around six years. Could be time. To be safe, it is easy enough to replace it. Does it crank right away? I wouldn't put much stock in what the eye shows.

If there is any hesitation when you crank it, I would plan to replace it myself, and not expect to require programming. That is simply my best guess. You will likely have to reset the steering angle sensor as I note in my first post.

Jeff

[Elvis 3.0]

Jeff-

late reply but was away with the holiday ... Thanks for all of the insight. Incidentally I moved to the west coast of Florida and stopped in the Sarasota BMW dealer and the service tech relayed the same. Should be no issue, go ahead and swap yourself if you would like.

So thank you. I was also quoted 3 separate prices from three separate BMW dealers. One even asked for the VIN in order to quote, which I found rather odd and said as much. Why would you need the VIN if it is 2010 X3- wouldn't that info suffice??

Anyway, I know that you have had your X3 for some time now and this is my first. Will probably have bunch of questions.

Thanks for your help

-Elvis

[JCL]

Originally Posted by Elvis 3.0

One even asked for the VIN in order to quote, which I found rather odd and said as much. Why would you need the VIN if it is 2010 X3- wouldn't that info suffice??

If they search without the VIN, they may or may not see a note in the parts system about a mid year change, if there was one. If there is one, they will have to come back and ask you for production date. Entering the VIN can also tell them if there is an outstanding bulletin or whatever on the vehicle. Always worth using the VIN when ordering parts if you can.

[Elvis 3.0]

I'd like to say that I knew there had to be a reason, but honestly was quite skeptic. I even asked the tech over the phone as to why they needed it and wasn't really provided a reason other than 'just because' which lead to more skepticism.

Thanks for clearing up- now makes sense.

side note- been out of the X for over a year and now that I am back in the fold time to renew on premier membership. Best $ spent supporting a site like this.

Thanks for your help!