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  #21  
Old 07-18-2015, 11:24 PM
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6HP26 Transmission Service

don't have the diy link but did do the job and would offer a few things about doing it. some experience changing trans fluid, read a few posts here, not in a hurry, some simple techniques and some balls to do the job..it is worth it, the fluid in mine at 40,000 was very dark, the magnets were coated, the pan had the same clutch particles. no metal, it does shift smoother, especially under load going up hill in automatic mode.
1. secure the car, I used four ramps and drove up so the vehicle was level and secure.
2. let the car cool, the trans housing is aluminum, the bolts steel- easier on the threads, the cats and exhaust are right there by the pan.
3. make sure the fill plug will loosen before you drop the pan, mine was a large recessed plug at the rear of the bottom of the pan. 6H26 for the 4.8is. the drain plug is real close towards the front and flush with the pan.
4. drain the fluid- four to five liters.
5. gently separate the pan from the transmission.
6. keep your catch fluid pan because when you remove the pan, fluid will still drop...I used a pan larger than the trans pan to cover any drips.
7. The trans filter is held in place by the tube washer and is a pop in, pull out thing.held in by the tube seal, 1" in diameter. , if it doesn't come out with the filter, go in and get it..you can see up the pipe..
8. if your mechatronic seal is leaking-weeping on the passenger side of the trans, now is the time to change, otherwise I would leave it, it is a fussy replacement. relatively easy pull down on the white tab releasing it located on bottom near filter, pull off connector, make sure you note orientation of tang...very important to get this right, new one goes in reverse..must be aligned. when pulling seal/tube out...put Vaseline on the seals of the new one,,otherwise it is a bitch going back in...once in, push up on the white locking tab. replace connector. white locking tab will not go back into place when pushing up if the seal is not fully inserted...I needed Vaseline after nearly hitting it with a hammer..ha
9. clean pan, magnets..return magnets, easy to forget to put back on pan.
10. put in filter,
11. replace pan, alternate tightening the numerous bolts. take time..align all bolts to pan to gasket..might have to push pan around a bit, get a few spread apart bolts in first to ease the others.only hand turn a few turns until all bolts are in place. tighten bolts in cross pattern, going around one last loop to make sure all are tight.
12. the fill plug is funky, it is shaped like a an open ended T...see it close when you have the pan out so you know what you are dealing with on the re-fill. I got a plastic 90 degree plastic elbow the size of the pump tube and mounted it on the pump tube and it worked like a charm. I used one of those $5 pumps that screws onto a liter/quart bottle but it takes a lot of time changing bottles on the re-fill. so I got a bucket and put about 5-6 liters in and had it ready and positioned.
13. pump fluid until it comes out, the fill hole, have to put something there to catch it otherwise it gets all over.. return fill plug only slightly,
14. start vehicle, remove fill plug and fill until it comes out..replace fill plug. Tighten ..it can be done relatively quickly via the hand pump and the fluid in the bucket. what ever is left in the bucket goes back in the bottle at $25 a bottle or ?...next time. I felt that if I got enough fluid in, when it started to come out the fill hole, while the engine was started cold, I would get the right amount of fluid and didn't need to temperature test it for the proper amount. pumped like mad to get it full asap. heats up fast and hot fluid expands. For me, the key to this job was the ramps, vehicle cold, the bucket, the pump, the elbow, a large pan, keep the bolts together, satisfaction ...
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  #22  
Old 08-05-2015, 01:20 PM
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I just ran across this video on the internet, actual fluid and filter change on a ZF 6HP transmission. Hope it helps someone on the post....

101112_mediathek_001rw
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  #23  
Old 08-05-2015, 02:01 PM
kvc kvc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddL View Post
I just ran across this video on the internet, actual fluid and filter change on a ZF 6HP transmission. Hope it helps someone on the post....

101112_mediathek_001rw
Interesting that the "ZF education centre" in the video, states that a transmission service should be done between "55,000 and 75,000 miles or after 8 years use". Perhaps this will finally put to bed the question of whether or not we have a 'lifetime' service transmission and the need to ever service this component?
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  #24  
Old 08-05-2015, 02:05 PM
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Exactly, kvc....I was thinking the very same thing !
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2019, 04:56 PM
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Hi guys, sorry to revive this thread from the dead.

I've gone to do this oil change last night (not dropping the pan, just a drain and refill) and about 3.5L of fluid came out of 'D' and fill hole 'C' would only take 2L before it started overflowing.

I've taken it for a drive, it seems to drive fine (better, even) and I checked the level when cold this morning and it's still at the right level.

I wanted to do this procedure 2-3 times over the next year or so to see if it makes any difference to the gear changes, then probably drop the pan, do the filter, etc.

Is it possible it was overfilled the last time it was done (if it was ever done)?

Thanks
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  #26  
Old 03-13-2019, 05:06 PM
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Was the car running when you filled it?

Should be level, running, cycled through each gear briefly and filled at temp until just a trickle is running out of the fill plug.


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:00 PM
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It wasn't running, however the car was level and I filled it until it spilled, put the plug back in, cycled through the gears for a bit, turned it off and checked the level again, took it for a drive, then checked the level again.

I checked it again this morning when the car was cold and a little started coming out of the fill hole when I undid it. It's definitely not going to take anymore, which made me assume it had previously been overfilled.
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  #28  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:02 PM
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Read this post again more carefully. You fill the trans WHILE running. You cannot get it full without the engine running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplefade View Post
Was the car running when you filled it?

Should be level, running, cycled through each gear briefly and filled at temp until just a trickle is running out of the fill plug.


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior
AM.
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  #29  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:08 PM
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Assuming a ZF 6sp trans it has to be filled with the car running.

After draining, refill the pan until there is just a trickle coming out, start the car, cycle through the gears and then continue filling until I believe the fluid trickling out reaches 82/86 degrees. I can look that up real quick but the car absolutely has to be running to fill it properly.

I usually have my wife start the car and cycle through the gears, holding each gear for 3 seconds or so while I am under the car continuing the fill process. I use a laser temp monitor and continue to fill the trans until the fluid reaches the correct temp with just a trickle flowing out of the fill hole. Throw the plug back in, shut her down, drop it off the jack stands and go for a test drive


2005 X5 4.4i (04/05 build date)
Titanium Silver w/Black Interior
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  #30  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:42 PM
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The temp range is 30-50C (86-122F), so I run it just until it barely feels warm when filling/checking level. A thermometer would be ideal, but I think my method is adequate.

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