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  #31  
Old 06-09-2019, 01:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5M-ISH View Post
... Though, if the OEM fan on my truck starts making any noise, Iíll likely go your route simply for the sake of ease of installation as the price is negligible between the two.
When the OEM viscous clutch on my '05 recently packed up (loud bearing noises) I looked very seriously at an electric replacement but two factors lead me to replacing the factory viscous clutch with another Hella Behr unit. One was cost - I wanted to use a PWM fan controller rather than a simple on/off, and I wanted a good quality fan. Total cost for both was over NZ$500, while I manage to obtain a Hella Behr OEM unit for around NZ$200. The other factor was reliability - I've read a number of folk who have had to replace fan controllers multiple times - seems they aren't very reliable, even the simple on/off units.

I figure as I'm not racing my car and the OEM unit lasted 220,000km and 14 years, the OEM solution is good enough for me.
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  #32  
Old 06-09-2019, 01:17 AM
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@wpoll, that is sound logic, especially in a warm climate.
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  #33  
Old 06-09-2019, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
@wpoll, that is sound logic, especially in a warm climate.
Well, we all make these calls based on a set of factors that are specific to our own situation...

FWIW, after extensive research, here's what I had settled on before not going down this path....

Hayden Fan Controller - https://www.haydenauto.com/Featured%...r/Content.aspx

Davies Craig 16" Fan - https://daviescraig.com.au/product/1...c-fan-12v-0166

Hopefully someone can make use of all my research...
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  #34  
Old 06-11-2019, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Lots of discussions about realistic gains from electric fans.I've been replacing clutch fans with fans that take less to turn for decades. I have also replaced stock pulleys with under drive pulleys for the same reason. Never failed to be beneficial. Easily passes my cost/benefits criteria for a good value purchase and a no brainer if replacing the stock fan. What do you consider marginal?
good points, I'm considering this mod on my e53 3.0i as well but since we're on the topic could you suggest why my radiator OEM fan is constantly in bore mode even on cold starts (this occurs only when the AC is on), I can literally hear it from inside the car :/ was thinking it might be a bad sensor?
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  #35  
Old 06-18-2019, 02:04 PM
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I wish there was a diy on every wiring step... I am not very good with the electrical side. Bummer a company has not created a plug and play kit for these like the E46..
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  #36  
Old 06-18-2019, 02:51 PM
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Plug and play? Plug into where? The factory fan is mechanical so any electrical fan mod will require wiring work, no question. These fans require a high current supply so it's not possible to tap into an existing circuit for power. The controllers also usually need their own temp sensor; it's often not possible to tap into the existing sensors.

It's not a hard wiring job though... a couple of wires or so...
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  #37  
Old 06-18-2019, 04:09 PM
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Good quality fans come with an adjustable temperature controller or are available as a separate purcchase. Positive and Negative wires from the fan go to the controller. I have the controller wired to the positive and negative terminals under the hood and it is mounted on top of the fender well. I wired in an inline fuse. The thermostat sensor wire goes from the controller to the radiator and is inserted between two of the fins. Fan comes with fasteners that go through the radiator fins to secure it. Instructions that came with the controller are very good. Straight forward easy job, no cutting, no drilling no relocating.
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  #38  
Old 06-19-2019, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Good quality fans come with an adjustable temperature controller or are available as a separate purcchase. Positive and Negative wires from the fan go to the controller. I have the controller wired to the positive and negative terminals under the hood and it is mounted on top of the fender well. I wired in an inline fuse. The thermostat sensor wire goes from the controller to the radiator and is inserted between two of the fins. Fan comes with fasteners that go through the radiator fins to secure it. Instructions that came with the controller are very good. Straight forward easy job, no cutting, no drilling no relocating.
In addition to what BC mentions, high-end aftermarket fan controllers may also need wiring for ignition and an over-ride (full-power) switch. Some controllers also have provision for a hook-up to the A/C clutch, so the fan RPM increases when the A/C is on.
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  #39  
Old 06-20-2019, 11:35 AM
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.1 decrease 0-60 time = $1000 & DIY
 
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I had the option to connect the controller to the ignition. I did not so that it would run when the ignition is off to reduce heat soak. If you want to wire to the ignition it is only necessary to find a wire that is only live when the ignition is on. My fan is intentionally not a variable RPM fan. I want it on or off. With the stock electric pusher still in place I didn't feel the need to have the aftermarket fan come on when the air is on. If the air conditioning causes the engine temp to exceed the controller setting the aftermarket fan will come on. I have the controller set so the aftermarket fan comes just before the electric fan does. Stock electric fan is never needed to cool the engine.
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