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  #71  
Old 07-18-2021, 11:58 AM
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Is this install procedure to do more than make sure the battery doesn't run down? Why do you need an on/off/auto switch?
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  #72  
Old 07-18-2021, 01:01 PM
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manual override is the ultimate safety for a failed T-switch

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Is this install procedure to do more than make sure the battery doesn't run down? Why do you need an on/off/auto switch?
Like on your installation, the thermostatic switch is the ideal "automatic" control; it is supposed to turn the fan on-off as determined by coolant temperature, and the switched power for that T-switch will limit it's run-time after engine shutdown to 16 minutes. Ideally. The manual override is to make sure there is a way to power up the fan, if the T-switch fails (your switches have failed before, as have some of mine).

My "switched" power isn't that...I'll need another, true, switched power circuit. And, since my T-switch is set too high (preset) to trigger the fan relay, I just bought an adjustable (32F-248F) fan controller to be able to trigger the relay on-off automatically, as initially planned. I'll put the sensor in the hottest location the probe will fit into (even if it must go into the cool-ish spot I had previously inserted the other T-switch probe into). Then I'll turn the rheostat down until the coolant reaches 175-180F (as shown on my Torque Pro app monitor), and turns on the fan.

I bought the Hayden 3653 adjustable fan controller on a side-trip while shopping for pet supplies (dogs, feral cats, chickens), and getting breakfast at a new-to-us spot. I popped into an O'Reilly's and bought one I'd used before. Can't hurt to try it, for $20.
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  #73  
Old 07-18-2021, 02:56 PM
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After turning off the engine when the outside temp is 105 degrees the fan runs no more than 3 times for less than a minute each time and I have never run the battery down.

It was my fault the controller fried. I was cleaning up the wiring to look better and I attached the positive wire to the wrong terminal. When I turned the cutoff switch back on I soon smelled plastic burning. As it goes with DIY, I make a mistake I can be sure it will cause a bigger problem.

Since the pusher fan is temp activated, it doesn't matter where the probe is located in the radiator once the the adjustable controller is in place. All that is necessary is set the controller to activate the puller fan just before the pusher fan starts running.
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  #74  
Old 07-18-2021, 03:59 PM
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Turns on at 183. Ok. Now for the fuse tap.

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Old 07-18-2021, 09:43 PM
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fuse tap nix;used the (plugged) flashlight circuit in glovebox

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Turns on at 183. Ok. Now for the fuse tap.

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After searching for "switched power" for hours on this forum, I repeatedly saw conflicting statements about what is and isn't a sfe "switched power" circuit to tap into (I didn't want to run afoul of any modules). So I decided to look for the uninstalled flashlight charging circuit in the glovebox (it was mentioned a couple of times by trusted sources).

There was a black plastic rectangle where the flashlight would've been, so I used a screwdriver and popped it out. Voila', there was the two=prong receptacle, with a brown ground and a black/red? positive (lighting was bad). After testing with my meter, to verify it was switched, I made that circuit my trigger-power source. I didn't have the right fittings for it, so I used Posi-Taps to tap it, then used Posi-Locks to graft it into the wires that my cigarette plug had previously fed (I cut the plug-in with plenty of wire left, for future use).

Now, the key controls the power to trigger the fan in two modes: 1) automatically via the T-switch on the radiator, or 2) manually, via the hidden switch under the dash. However, once the key is turned off, the fan quits (I had wanted it to run another 16 minutes, until sleep mode started). I guess the flashlight circuit sleeps instantly. Good enough for one day's troubleshooting...I'll look for a sleepy circuit at another time.

Meanwhile, while the engine was running to retest the automatic fan, I sealed the Thermo-switch in a temporary plastic container, and ran an emergency charging cable to the underhood jumper posts, in case my battery goes dead and the manual doorkey won't work. I can use a battery charger or even jumper cables to give the battery enough power so I could use the key fob to get inside.
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  #76  
Old 07-19-2021, 04:28 PM
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hats off to the OP for a simple plan...which I overlooked

OK, it's done, but I'm still considering adding a second, timed relay to be able to give my fan 10 more minutes of cooldown with the key off (just to trigger the main power relay for 10 minutes). I've found the parts needed (a mini-relay (wi-fi configurable) and a diode to prevent feedback. But that'll come later.

After re-reading this thread, I finally made the mental connection that bcredliner used an all-in-one adjustable thermostatic controller with a 40 amp relay built-in, and not one like mine with separate T-switch and relays to wire together. Makes for a simpler, cleaner installation...especially since I had to add more wiring later, to retrofit an adjustable fan controller. I thought I was saving money, haha.

On his installation, he only used the underhood positive "jumper post" to supply both the low amperage trigger voltage and the higher amperage output voltage to the self-contained controller. No switched power, no manual override control, no compressor actuated switch. Very clean and simple. Kudos!

On the other hand, I overcomplicate everything, thereby learning what works and what doesn't on my new-to-me X5. next time, though....
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Last edited by workingonit; 07-19-2021 at 06:37 PM.
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  #77  
Old 07-19-2021, 05:10 PM
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It works, you had fun, that's all that counts.
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