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  #11  
Old 09-02-2015, 09:09 PM
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Actually, thus far, everytime it's happened is when the car is in motion - traveling about 30 to 40mph, on a flat surface with a constant throttle. So far, it hasn't happened on the highway, going highway speeds
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2015, 09:24 PM
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Update -

Earlier today, while driving about 30 to 40mph, same thing happened - truck hesitates and 4x4, brake and ABS lights go on and the radio shuts off and turns back on.

Later in the day, driving same speed, again moment of hesitation but this time only the 4x4 light comes on with the radio shutting off then turning back on.

Tonight, again driving same speed, a moment of hesitation - but now I figured out what the hesitation is. It's the ABS engaging momentarily. Even though my foot is on the gas pedal, it feels like I'm pressing the brake pedal for a second. So what's happening is while my foot is on the gas pedal, traveling 30 to 40 mph, the ABS is kicking in for a moment and when it releases, the 4x4 light, plus the brake & ABS light, and the radio shutting off and then turning back on.

Why the heck would the ABS kick in (or perhaps it's the DSC because the system thinks there's wheel slip?)?

What do you guys think?
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2015, 09:58 PM
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I have had the DSC problem without the other effects (radio, etc) when a wheel speed sensor is going bad. The DSC applies the brakes trying to get the four wheels to agree, and when it can't make sense of the response (since it was a bad sensor) it triggers a fault and shuts down.
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2015, 11:05 PM
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use DIS and clear faults. start from scratch, and read codes again. These might be codes that were stores prior to being read.

Do you hear a clicking when you turn off the car? audible outside of the car under the driver seat. If you hear clicking this would point to actuator gear. also code 5f3a was the same code i got for the actuator gear. I had a lot more codes present also prior to clearing it and rescanning. Once rescanned, only the code 5f3a was present. Do you have EHC2? You may also have SLS inactive message also if you have EHC2.

Change that gear!! it'll solve 80% of your codes! and its only 20 bucks! check out my threads on this.
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  #15  
Old 09-02-2015, 11:11 PM
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I ran out of time, but wanted to add that you have codes for every possible wheel speed sensor. This is implausible. Likely to be transfer case gear screwing things up or DSC module crapping out (look for threads on that). Given the relative cost, and weirdness of your problem, the $20 gear should easily be first and then move to other issues.
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  #16  
Old 09-03-2015, 10:11 AM
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Transfer case actuator gear.

I had this same issue, Its the transfer case actuator gear, a lot of places say you should change the actuator itself but the problem exist only with the gear, it gets worn out after time(cheap plastic part). I changed mine over 15 months ago and my car still runs good, i drive about 30 miles a day no issues here.
https://www.odometergears.com/produc...+1999-2010/132
http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor.../dp/B00H2TD5IQ
I got the amazon one for 15$ lol runs good.:stick poke
Repair is really simple.

https://www.odometergears.com/howto/...ear_Repair.pdf
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  #17  
Old 09-03-2015, 01:23 PM
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Well idk, that issue didn't allow my car to start anymore .. But I mean I'm just shooting out options.. Radio could be another issue
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2015, 02:29 PM
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Charging voltage seems too high.

I would check every wheel sensor individually. Don't just visually check them, but test them individually with either a multimeter or bmw software. With the software it would be a lil easier.

After all your wheel sensors are fine and the problem still persist, then I would start looking for a new DSC module.
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2015, 02:45 PM
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I agree with earlier posts to clear the codes and see what comes back, unlock the cluster and monitor voltage for spikes and get a battery load test done. Resting and running voltage is in the normal range.

I would keep troubleshooting. I wouldn't be buying parts yet.
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  #20  
Old 09-03-2015, 02:55 PM
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13.8-14.1 volts is acceptable and the range at which the voltage should be while charging off the alternator. One of the recordings was up to 14.44 volts. Just seems a liltle high....
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