DSC Brake ABS lights plus....

[Sapphire68]

My alternator went out at 58k miles and caused many of the same kinds of issues. It was overcharging the battery. One of the codes you listed was for high voltage supply if I recall correctly. I'd chase the alternator a bit, though the transfer case actuator gear also sounds plausible. I haven't personally encountered that one, so can't speak to it, but the poster sounded pretty confident!

[tomsawyer]

Update - as I stated in post #14, I had 3 separate incidents yesterday. Today, none. I pretty much drove the truck the same places I did yesterday but today the truck ran fine. One difference, even though it was very hot here in NJ, I didn't run the AC today. Not sure if that had anything to do with it? Not sure if it means anything but I figured I'd let you guys know the difference between yesterday and today.

[tomsawyer]

[QUOTE=David.X5;1049566]The gear on the TC actuator is $20. You can test it by reversing it and see if it behaves (that will engage an unworn section). I would do that before throwing more expensive parts at it.

Another update - I was making a K turn a few moments ago and the ABS kicked in because even though my foot was on the gas I felt the car "jerk" like brakes got engaged and then the 4x4 light came on and radio shut on and off.

So, the steps were, I was in D moving forward, braked, put shifter in R, backed up, I put the shifter in D, pressed the gas peddle, the car started moving forward and then jerked (felt like brakes engaged then released - you know the sound when the ABS kicks in but the truck's moving forward) and then the 4x4 light came on with the radio shutting off then turning back on.

Assuming David, and the others, are correct who've said to start by changing the gear of the TC before getting into the expensive stuff, what would you consider to be a fair price for labor to pay to have the gear replaced.

FYI, I'm not mechanically inclined so I would have my guy do it. He's a retired tech from the local BMW dealer. I want to be fair to him but I don't want him to BS me either.

Thanks to all who answer.

[David.X5]

I don't know what a retired mechanic makes per hour for side work. The dealers are getting $100-$125/hr. Planning on 1.5 hours seems pretty generous. You will have to buy the gear and take it to him - it is not a BMW part. The part is down to $11 now.

One source:
http://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Motor.../dp/B00H2TD5IQ

If you lived in Maryland, I would change it out for you just to find out if that is what is wrong!!

[sckooby94]

Guess it all boils down to what I originally said.. Hmm

[jdd]

1 - 1.5 hrs sounds about right for somebody experienced although removing the servo motor and re-attaching it to the transfer case are the easiest parts.
I did this job recently and getting the cover off the servo motor without damaging/warping it and then removing the C clip that retains the gear were not difficult but they are fiddly and time consuming tasks. I actually needed another pair of hands (wife) to get the C clip off.

[jdd]

Just to follow on from the previous post, the first symptom I had for the worn servo motor gear before any warning came up on the dash was that the car felt like it was hesitating when taking off from stationary, this was actually the brakes being applied by the DSC. As the problem progressed the trifecta of lights came up on the dash after the hesitation. After this point the car drove fine but it was effectively only driving the rear wheels.

[tomsawyer]

Looks like my attack plan is going to be to first change the gear in the servo motor. As you guys have already indicated, its the cheapest way to go for now. Hopefully, that'll be the cure but if not, I'll move to next part. I'll let you know what happens once I get the gear installed.

[tomsawyer]

One question I forgot to ask. Once the gear is swapped out and the motor reinstalled, does the truck need any software coding, resetting or recalibration?

Thanks

[jdd]

From what I've read, there are two schools of thought on this.
The instructions from various people "in the know" is that you don't need to have anything recoded provided you don't disengage the brushes/feedback sensor when dismantling the servo motor, basically they say to keep the black plastic piece that houses the brushes and fedback sensor with the motor armature and housing.
To me this seems to be pointless because the motor will turn when the new gear is fitted and you're unlikely to get the gear back engaged in the transfer case with the motor armature in exactly the same position.
I suspect it's mentioned just to make things easier so you don't have to worry about getting the motor brushes back in place.

I didn't bother getting mine recalibrated after fitting the new gear and so far there has been no adverse effects, and it appears to functioning properly.
I suspect there must be some type of automatic recalibration process the servo motor goes through when you turn the engine on/off otherwise it would not be able cope with wear and tear within the transfer case clutch.