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#1
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Please Help!! Transmission Code: Pressure Regulator EDS 5
Any links or ideas on what I can do to possibly fix this would definitely help. Thanks
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If you can still see the disapointment on his face in your rear view mirror, he's not far enough behind. 98 M3 Sedan blk/blk Sold 00 BMW 540i Sold 03 BMW 4.6IS 98 BMW E36 M3 modified |
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#2
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It's really easy to drop the pan, test it, and replace if necessary.
For that matter it can be checked externally, but replacement is still a simple deal. |
#3
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Wow!! Thanks. I really need this thing up and running again. How would I go about testing it externally before taking the transmission oil pan off? and what does the thing look like?
Thanks
__________________
If you can still see the disapointment on his face in your rear view mirror, he's not far enough behind. 98 M3 Sedan blk/blk Sold 00 BMW 540i Sold 03 BMW 4.6IS 98 BMW E36 M3 modified |
#4
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http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ng-post-2.html
Bottom of page 2 of my post shows what you would see laying under the car looking up into the trans. Solenoids are to the right with wiring harness in that pic. You can test through the harness with an ohm meter. Attached here are the specs. 'Twas me I would test from the trans harness connector at the trans control module. Under the hood, passenger side, remove the plastic cover. Done be intimidated by all the wires, find the applicable connector. You would find that disconnecting the harness at the trans itself, tucked way up in the tunnel, is a bear and really hard if not impossible to test at that connector on the trans itself (accessibility issues). If not comfy then enlist a pal who is. It's not difficult. But a false positive or false negative result can lead you down lonely expensive paths. Other option is to drain the fluid into clean container, remove the pan, disconnect the harness (just unplugs from each solenoid) and test them directly. This is a messy job, that can be explained by the mathematical formula: oil + gravity = Go here: http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Troubl...ch%20Guide.pdf go to pages 120 and 117 of the .pdf. Never mind the title of the document; you have the 5hp24. I think. Go to YouTube, and in the search box, type: 5hp24 solenoid testing |
#5
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Since my transmission is only 2yrs old and I drive it maybe 10,000kms a year, I'm guessing it's an electrical connection issue first but I'll pull the cover off under the hood on the passenger side and check it. I'm not exactly sure what the plug looks like or even how to test it with a meter so if you have any instruction on that part, that would be hugely helpful.
I really need to get a handle on this problem. My buddy figures it's still an ABS/speed sensor issue but the ABS light isn't on.
__________________
If you can still see the disapointment on his face in your rear view mirror, he's not far enough behind. 98 M3 Sedan blk/blk Sold 00 BMW 540i Sold 03 BMW 4.6IS 98 BMW E36 M3 modified |
#6
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Well, if ya hear hoof beats, think horses before aliens.
If you have a diag code for EDS 5, it doesn't necessarily mean order a pressure solenoid, but it doesn't really mean start with something else either. Test the obvious first. Find conn X70004 on the TCM under the plastic cover in engine bay, passenger side, at the firewall. Read (on the plug, not the TCM socket) between pins 3 & 12 (EDS 2), 7 & 12 (EDS 3), 11 & 12 (EDS 4), and 15 & 12 (EDS 5). Then do a "which one of these is not like the other" analysis, since they should each come in at about 7 ohms, give or take .8. Civdiv's take is that if you have a problem, it'll be obvious. Meaning you probably won't see something like 5 ohms or 10 ohms leaving you in a dilemma. If you do, think it through - flakey contact won't give you a lower reading - shorted solenoid coils or chaffed wiring contacting bad things could. Higher reading but not "open" indicates connection/contact issue is likely, since an actually open coil winding would not be higher resistance, it'd read as if open and infinite resistance (as far as we are concerned here). If you are going to pursue a possible connection issue, start under the car at the trans connector, as it lives in the weather. You will find that the connector is well sealed with its little oring and stuff. It also requires room under there to contort to work with, so please have the car well supported as if your life depends on it. (hint). That's really all I can do for you. Your code is pointing in a direction, and whether the solenoid itself is bad or not, as long as the car thinks it is, that'll need to be addressed. Your choice now is really down to what is your time and ability worth -DIY v. pay by the hour someone else. |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Two things, firstly under the hood close to the windshield on the messenger side where all the wires come together there is a circuit box communicates with the ECU and the transmission. We found that water had somehow gotten in there and corroded some of the contact points on one of the chips so my buddy cleaned it up and sprayed it with a non-corrosions spray, then he sealed the box totally. Once he cleared the codes, life was good again till it rained and then I was back in fail safe mode. I knew the water wasn't getting into that box so I check my sunroof drains and found the passenger side one was basically pouring water into my vehicle and getting something wet along the firewall causing it to kick into fail safe mode. Once I used gorilla tape to secure the drain in place, no more issues. Thank God!!
__________________
If you can still see the disapointment on his face in your rear view mirror, he's not far enough behind. 98 M3 Sedan blk/blk Sold 00 BMW 540i Sold 03 BMW 4.6IS 98 BMW E36 M3 modified |
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