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  #21  
Old 02-08-2017, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
RE: Removal

It's easiest to remove the door seal when the butyl rope is cold. You can then pull gently at the vapor barrier and razor blade the butyl as it is stretching. Haven't punctured a barrier yet using this method. However, I have an air conditioned garage so it is easier for me to get the temperature down in there.

If you remove it when the butyl is warm or hot... you end up with a sticky and gooey mess.
I've tried it cold a few times and best worked with a razor blade as you gently pull it. Most of the time it tries to tear itself apart.

Sometimes I'll use a little heat to get it to peel back and slice away at the butyl. Too hot and like you said, ends up a gooey mess everywhere.
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  #22  
Old 02-08-2017, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain View Post
I've tried it cold a few times and best worked with a razor blade as you gently pull it. Most of the time it tries to tear itself apart.

Sometimes I'll use a little heat to get it to peel back and slice away at the butyl. Too hot and like you said, ends up a gooey mess everywhere.
Yes, sorry I should have said, not too cold either. There is a perfect temperature window to keep the butyl at so that it is easiest to work with.
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  #23  
Old 02-15-2017, 10:33 PM
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3M 08620 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039752R2..._Z8qPybFW2B7YQ
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  #24  
Old 02-16-2017, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystalworks View Post
RE: Removal

It's easiest to remove the door seal when the butyl rope is cold. You can then pull gently at the vapor barrier and razor blade the butyl as it is stretching. Haven't punctured a barrier yet using this method. However, I have an air conditioned garage so it is easier for me to get the temperature down in there.

If you remove it when the butyl is warm or hot... you end up with a sticky and gooey mess.
Yes, this is what I do. I use a sharp utility knife and it cuts easily. Then, when I'm done I just press it back into place and it reseals itself, reusing the butyl strip , knowing I'm good for at least another 6 months before I need to take it apart again for a new reason.
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  #25  
Old 02-16-2017, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
knowing I'm good for at least another 6 months before I need to take it apart again for a new reason.
I shouldnt laugh at this, but its funny cause its true.
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  #26  
Old 02-20-2017, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
I shouldnt laugh at this, but its funny cause its true.
Sure enough I had both front door panels off this past weekend. And this is after replacing window clips, regulator clips (or the whole regulator on the left side), and rebuilding the driver's door lock actuator within the last two years.

The latest repair = the right front door handle carrier broke. Thinking I'd be smart and be ready for when the left side would eventually go (and also spending enough to get free shipping), I bought both sides. Febi-Bilstein, from RM European. Placed the order around 3PM Friday, got the free ground shipping, to take 3-8 days. The parts arrived Saturday morning! That's why RMEuropean is my goto place for parts.

Left side: 51-21-8-243-615, Right side 51-21-8-243-616

So I replaced the right door handle carrier. No problems there. Having the pre-cut butyl made it a little easier, not having to do so much cutting. Once it was all back in and buttoned up, I noticed how tight (in a good way) the door handle felt. It would open about half-way through the full range of motion. So I went around to the left side, and found that it would open only at almost the full travel.

I figured it was worth it to do the left side now, having fresh knowledge, tools out, new part in hand, etc. So I did that too. But it turns out the left side was half-failed, ready to go at any time.

On the right side, the door handle carrier failure was on a U-shaped casting that completely cracked away so pulling the handle just pulls the pivot through the cracked opening, not opening the door. I.e., the U turned into | |

On the left side, it had failed in exactly the same location, but instead of cracking on both sides of the U so the pivot can pull all the way through, it had only cracked on one side and deformed so the J was still catching the pivot. Ready to break any time. I.e., the U turned into | J

This might be a nice check even if you're not suspecting any problems - see what the release point is when you open your door handle. On a tight new system, the door should release about half-way through the full range of motion. If it does not actually release until the very end of travel, you may have an impending door handle carrier failure. Certainly worth checking if you're going to have the door panel off for some other reason. But the door handle carrier needs to be removed to inspect for this particular failure.
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Last edited by oldskewel; 02-20-2017 at 03:48 PM.
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  #27  
Old 02-22-2017, 10:38 AM
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I replaced my driver's window regulator last night. I bought the 3M stuff from Amazon figuring I would need to replace it, but the old stuff re-stuck just fine. Temp probably mid 60s and used a razor blade to cut through the old stuff as I worked the liner down. 2005 X5
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