Rear Brake Lines Rusted Out - Anyone replace the hard lines with Stainless Steel?

[srmmmm]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

^ get some WD40 on the front hard lines -

RB, I recommend Yamaha's "Yamalube Silicone Spray Protectant and Lubricant". I use it on the engine, all electrical connections, and cables on my waverunner and it does a great job of coating and sealing them from moisture and salt effects, even when we're running down at Orange Beach, AL. It's only about $8 a can and seems to last longer on surfaces than WD40. It's done a great job of keeping my hoses in great shape on the X5.

2002 X5 3.0 309,000 miles

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by srmmmm

RB, I recommend Yamaha's "Yamalube Silicone Spray Protectant and Lubricant". I use it on the engine, all electrical connections, and cables on my waverunner and it does a great job of coating and sealing them from moisture and salt effects, even when we're running down at Orange Beach, AL. It's only about $8 a can and seems to last longer on surfaces than WD40. It's done a great job of keeping my hoses in great shape on the X5.

2002 X5 3.0 309,000 miles

Omg you are bringing me back to my WaveRunner days with Yamalube - used to use the 2-stroke oil in my GP1300R back in the day!

I always hosed down my engine with WD40 after flushing and cleaning etc, but I will look into the silicone spray for sure - if its good for your boat its good for me and my X!

[upallnight]

If you're concern about corrosion in metal parts that are bolted together, use Fluid Film instead to prevent corrosion between the two parts.

Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

[Spunbearing]

Originally Posted by Calipsoe

I just had to do this on my 2005 X5 and I replaced the rear lines with AGS NiCopp. Supposedly this copper alloy has been used for brake lines by other manufacturers for decades. (Audi, Porsche, etc.)

I used 2 - 25 foot rolls of NiCopp and ran each line as a continuous run. This should cost around $60 online (~$30 per roll). NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil, 3/16" x 25' - AGS Company AGS Company You'll have some tubing left over from each roll but a single 25 foot roll is not enough to do both lines.

I ended up using an HFT50 flaring tool after buying a cheap one and being disappointed with the quality of the flares. The HFT50 is not cheap ($140) but it is a quality tool. http://surrauto.com/documents/HFT50H...laringTool.pdf Practice! Practice! Practice! before making the flares on the car. Also note that the flare type you want is a DIN Mushroom flare. A bubble flare may work but it's not the correct flare type.

Most of the bending I did by hand but in the wheel wells where the connection is made to the rubber brake line I used this bending tool from Harbor Freight for $10. 1/8" to 1/4" Tube Bender
It gave nice consistent bends and is a good size for fitting in tight areas if needed. I also used it for making the bends going into the distribution box.

Once I got the NiCopp lines in place I bought 4 feet of 3/16 ID rubber hose and cut it in 2" or 4" sections and slit it along the length and used it as additional vibration protection bushings for spots where the lines may cross or they may come in contact with the body. These were tie wrapped in place.

FYI BMW sells the steel lines cut to length BUT that will cost you about $200 for all the lines. But the big problem is going to be joining the lines that run under the trunk over to the right rear. Getting a wrench in there will be too tight unless you connect them before installation. Using a continuous line avoided that headache as I just fed the line from the left side over to the right side.

Also be aware that BMW recommends using Low Viscosity DOT 4 brake fluid. I chose to use BMW fluid from ECS Tuning in 12oz bottles. It's cheaper to buy the 12oz bottles than a gallon and if you dont use them all they will stay sealed and be good for your next brake flush.

WARNING! My lines rusted out in the usual spot right behind the drivers side wheel well under the plastic cover. However I noticed significant corrosion on both lines hidden behind the left front wheel well splash guard and on the right rear line as it travels from left to right under the trunk and over the differential. Just checking under the long plastic cover is not enough!

Thanks Calipsoe, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Time to order some tools!

[richardb]

Our 2005 X5 had a broken rear brake line from the corrosion as well. We had the entire rear lines replaced as a preventative measure from further broken lines. I believe the total repair bill was $450 at a local shop.

[Calipsoe]

I should add that if your brake reservoir runs dry or below minimum you may need to bleed your system with the GT1/DIS software (or INPA) to get all of the air out of the ABS system. This may be a good precaution anyway. (Note: GT1/DIS worked for me. INPA although simpler did not work for me. I think it's a software configuration issue with INPA and since GT1/DIS was working I used that.)

Since my reservoir went dry here's what I did.

Using a power bleeder I first bled all the lines RR, RL, FR & FR to get some fluid in them.

Next I used the GT1/DIS Bleed Routine to cycle the ABS valves while bleeding the line. The instructions say to activate the ABS while bleeding the line and then pump the brake pedal 5 times. I did this once in the following sequence RR, RL, FR, FL. After all that I only got about 20% braking power so I knew I still had air in the lines.

Time to get more aggressive! Again starting on the RR I ran the GT1/DIS Bleed Routine 4 times sequentially while power bleeding and after that sequence I pumped the brake pedal 5 times and a load of air finally came out. I repeated that procedure on the RL, FR & FL and it solved the problem. FYI The majority of the the air came out of the RR.

I used approximately 2 L of brake fluid for the job.

Also make sure you have a full car battery or connect a jumper pack or battery tender. Since my X was sitting for a couple weeks before running the procedure it ran the battery down to the point where the ABS pump stopped working.


One more thing with the dissassembly your going to have to take off the driver side front and rear plastic wheel wells. To get them off you need to remove the 5 or 6 plastic rivets that hold the side trim against the wheel well. They are not reusable so you will need to order new ones. P/N = 51717002953 https://www.ecstuning.com/ES128455/ (shop around...ECS raised the price 45% since I bought them a couple weeks ago! )

[RonVF]

Originally Posted by Calipsoe

I just had to do this on my 2005 X5 and I replaced the rear lines with AGS NiCopp. Supposedly this copper alloy has been used for brake lines by other manufacturers for decades. (Audi, Porsche, etc.)

I used 2 - 25 foot rolls of NiCopp and ran each line as a continuous run. This should cost around $60 online (~$30 per roll). NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil, 3/16" x 25' - AGS Company AGS Company You'll have some tubing left over from each roll but a single 25 foot roll is not enough to do both lines.

I ended up using an HFT50 flaring tool after buying a cheap one and being disappointed with the quality of the flares. The HFT50 is not cheap ($140) but it is a quality tool. http://surrauto.com/documents/HFT50H...laringTool.pdf Practice! Practice! Practice! before making the flares on the car. Also note that the flare type you want is a DIN Mushroom flare. A bubble flare may work but it's not the correct flare type.

Most of the bending I did by hand but in the wheel wells where the connection is made to the rubber brake line I used this bending tool from Harbor Freight for $10. 1/8" to 1/4" Tube Bender
It gave nice consistent bends and is a good size for fitting in tight areas if needed. I also used it for making the bends going into the distribution box.

Once I got the NiCopp lines in place I bought 4 feet of 3/16 ID rubber hose and cut it in 2" or 4" sections and slit it along the length and used it as additional vibration protection bushings for spots where the lines may cross or they may come in contact with the body. These were tie wrapped in place.

FYI BMW sells the steel lines cut to length BUT that will cost you about $200 for all the lines. But the big problem is going to be joining the lines that run under the trunk over to the right rear. Getting a wrench in there will be too tight unless you connect them before installation. Using a continuous line avoided that headache as I just fed the line from the left side over to the right side.

Also be aware that BMW recommends using Low Viscosity DOT 4 brake fluid. I chose to use BMW fluid from ECS Tuning in 12oz bottles. It's cheaper to buy the 12oz bottles than a gallon and if you dont use them all they will stay sealed and be good for your next brake flush.

WARNING! My lines rusted out in the usual spot right behind the drivers side wheel well under the plastic cover. However I noticed significant corrosion on both lines hidden behind the left front wheel well splash guard and on the right rear line as it travels from left to right under the trunk and over the differential. Just checking under the long plastic cover is not enough!

Wow! Great write up! I have been searching the web for information just like this. Had the left rear line on my wife's 2006 X5 (198k)blow under the drivers door, last weekend. Cars in the garage up on jacks, panels are off and I purchased all new lines from the ABS back to the calipers from BMW for $400. Once I saw the lines were not pre bent I got a little concerned. Called the 2 local dealers here in Albany NY and one quoted me 12 hours labor at $135 per hour and the other quoted 9 hours at $127 an hour.. So now I'm in the middle of trying to do the repair myself.
I tried bending the new oem steel line off the ABS myself but that thing has so many complex bends I screwed it all up. As a precaution I did purchase 2 25foot rolls of the NiCopp along with fittings and a bubble flaring tool from Napa. Now reading your post Calipsoe, I see that the ends are mushroom and not bubble.. Not sure how that will work or where to purchase the one you referenced. Here is my question or questions. If I run the continuous 25 ft, did you start at the back and work forward or in the front and work back? Also you mentioned how you bent at the rear, near the rubber lines but how about all the other bends including the wheel well before the ABS? Did you ge the new line placed into all the line clips including the one that crosses over to the right rear?
Your Warning is exactly what I found to be true. I didn't want to repair just the broken line only to have it fail somewhere else. This is my wife's vehicle and she isn't very good at hearing or seeing the warnings, like low brake fluid.. Fortunately I was driving it last week when the line ruptured.
Thank you for telling us about those little plastic retainers also, I'm sure I would have been trying to figure out how to get the old ones back in..
Much appreciated!

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by David.X5

BMW sells the brake lines really cheaply. They come in straight sections, but are cut to the correct length and have nice flares and nuts on them. If you take the front wheel liner out (a few screws and maybe 6 plastic rivets) then you have good access.

Seems way faster. And, yes, they might rust out in another 10 or fifteen years, but I think by then everything else will have failed, too.

IMO bending brake lines in the shape of the originals is not that simple and it is time consuming to get "right". I wouldn't complicate the project.

[RonVF]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

The problem with using the OEM lines is that there is no way to get to the connection point for the line that goes to the right wheel. It is behind the rear sub frame and that is why BMW quotes 9-12 hours labor. You have to drop the subframe to get to that connection.
Why they didn't place that union a little closer to the left rear wheel well is the question..

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by RonVF

The problem with using the OEM lines is that there is no way to get to the connection point for the line that goes to the right wheel. It is behind the rear sub frame and that is why BMW quotes 9-12 hours labor. You have to drop the subframe to get to that connection.
Why they didn't place that union a little closer to the left wheel well is the question..

Depending on how much the subframe has to be dropped that may be an area that a one piece line would be the less complicated way to go.