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  #161  
Old 06-14-2017, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
Ah, I see the problem now! How is it solved on the 3.0 with the manual?
The arm that I cut too short is the stock arm for the 3.0L... just install and shift away...

Cheers!
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  #162  
Old 06-14-2017, 10:47 AM
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And because the 3.0 has a different engine/transmission, you can't use the stock 3.0 arm on the M62 conversion? I get it now. The devil is definitely in the details!
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  #163  
Old 06-14-2017, 01:46 PM
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Let me see if I'm tracking....

On the current design you cut the arm mount down are are just thinking of mounting it direct to the tower? If so what if you got a thick piece of aluminum or steel plate and directly mounted the arm to it. That would solve the height issue by creating a spacer and should be stout enough to support the forces be placed on the arm. Basically retain the front bushing set up and then would need to do something on the back. If you could use a bushing instead of just a bolt it should improve shift feel (I'm guessing here).

OR.....

Just fab your own out of a plate of steel. Determine the diameter of the shifter and make a new socket for it.

Something like this silly thing I drew
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  #164  
Old 06-15-2017, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
It looks like you're really closing in on the finish line. Can't wait to see the results of all your efforts!

It may be too early to ask, but do you have a ballpark idea of the cost to do this conversion? I did the paddle shift mod to my 4.6 a couple years ago and it's a slightly better driving experience, but isn't in the same league as three pedals and a shifter. I'm really hoping this is something that will be doable for me.
Good day!!

This has taken me a little while to put together... I have tried to get the exact prices I paid for this stuff, but some of it I've had for a while... Others I got for free or part of another item... The YPIY has contributed a lot to the project... Cheap parts since I am pulling them myself... So, adjust accordingly... I guess you could just pull the ballpark prices from realoem to get a better idea of actual costs involved... And you may need to add a few for welding labor if you can't do that yourself or know someone...

Clutch pedal assembly from used 540i = 25.12
Slave cylinder used = p/o clutch pedal assy
Clutch pedal = p/o clutch pedal assy
Clutch pedal switches = p/o clutch pedal assy
Trans from used 540i = 400
Flywheel from used 540i = 50
Clutch assembly from used 540i = 50
Hydraulic line new = 57.87
Grommets and other stuff =
Hydraulic hose = 2.00
Tulle = 3.49
Stopper = 0.99
Hose grommet = 6.39
Clutch pivot pin = 3.35
Pivot pin spring = 6.42
Throw out bearing new = 40.99
Pilot bearing new = 8.00
Clutch fork new = 23.42
Trans mounts new = 23.66
Cross member support bar and cross bar new =
Shifter selector rod new = 46.82
Shifter hardware new = 18.00
Shifter used = donated by my son!! THANKS BUDDY!!
E38/E39 drive shaft (front section) used = 27.88
E38/E39 guibo used = p/o drive shaft
Shifter boot new = 57.95
Shifter foam insulation new = 18.72
Shifter rubber boot = 27.31
Shifter arm support new = 51.36
Shifter arm new = 41.01

Labor
Swap pins from used 540i pedal assembly to X5 assembly.
Cut cross member and weld support bar.
Drive shaft shop = 168
Pull front drive components.
Pull automatic and associated lines.
Install transmission and associated clutch components.
Cut carpet and install hydraulic line.

Wiring
Umm...?


I add it up... Still going tho... $1159ish...

Cheers!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 09-27-2017 at 01:38 PM.
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  #165  
Old 06-15-2017, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyyank View Post
Let me see if I'm tracking....

On the current design you cut the arm mount down are are just thinking of mounting it direct to the tower? If so what if you got a thick piece of aluminum or steel plate and directly mounted the arm to it. That would solve the height issue by creating a spacer and should be stout enough to support the forces be placed on the arm. Basically retain the front bushing set up and then would need to do something on the back. If you could use a bushing instead of just a bolt it should improve shift feel (I'm guessing here).

OR.....

Just fab your own out of a plate of steel. Determine the diameter of the shifter and make a new socket for it.

Something like this silly thing I drew
Good day!!!

Crazy that you mentioned both of these ideas... I was planning on going one of these routes... Great minds think alike!!

Okay, so... I have three options here...

Go with the original design and either get a new one and fix it up or fill in the gap with the one I have now...

Go with a spacer and the newest idea... Mounting that section of arm solidly to a plate of some sort and mounting that to the "tower" using the three existing holes...

Make a new socket for the pivot ball on the shifter and mount that to the tower... I like this new last idea, but the fab work on it would require most to pay a lot to get it done...

Hmmmmmm.... What to do!!!!

Cheers!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)
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  #166  
Old 06-15-2017, 01:43 PM
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Tough choices! Really I think if you could fab something up will be best but it will take some guess work. The only issue I see with the plate idea is rough shift feeling if you don't have any bushings in there, but easy enough to fix. I think trying to alter the OEM shift arm will lead to failure. It looks like a cast aluminum piece and I think if you chop it and reweld it may not hold up. Completely guessing here though!
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  #167  
Old 06-15-2017, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeyyank View Post
Tough choices! Really I think if you could fab something up will be best but it will take some guess work. The only issue I see with the plate idea is rough shift feeling if you don't have any bushings in there, but easy enough to fix. I think trying to alter the OEM shift arm will lead to failure. It looks like a cast aluminum piece and I think if you chop it and reweld it may not hold up. Completely guessing here though!
Ya know what?! I'm going to try all three options... I would like to stay with the OEM arm, but it is cast and I am concerned with the strength after modification...

If I can mount the other arm on the tower somehow, I think that would be the most solid and work the best with all the shifter boots...

And finally, the custom part will probably be the most customize-able...

The one that holds up the longest, wins!!

Thanks for the input on this!! Really really!!!

Cheers!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)
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  #168  
Old 06-17-2017, 08:28 AM
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Good day all!!!

Well, I think I have figured it out... I found these... I’ll leave it at that... “Found”...

I sized everything up and I knew I had to figure things out this morning when I got home... My initial thought was to have the hold down bolt facing up, but that caused clearance issues and figured I would just flip them, craw under the X to tighten down the clamp part, and then adjust inside once things were lined up... Ya may need to go a couple rounds to make sure everything is correct... So, let’s start with the initial thought...

This was the idea I had when I saw how much stress was on the shifter arm at the angle it was at...



Then I got these universal iron beam clamps... They are usually for hanging electrical or pipe conduit from the support beams in factories... I installed these first with one oversize nut as a spacer...



Then put the fabricated E36 shifter arm in place...







You will note how much room there is without the arm... You may also notice I have a long bolt holding the front rod section of the E36 shifter arm... The original one was just a touch too short, and this was used temporally to hold it... I adjusted the selector rod until I got the shifter centered... BUT, I don’t have to... There isn’t that much movement, so I can adjust it forward or backwards as I need to...

This is third...



And Neutral...



And forth...



Here again... This is third... Still plenty of room to adjust back some so the shifter isn't so vertical...



Neutral... ~Centered~



And forth...



Now the only real issue I see with this is the stress at the two mounting points... I can feel the shifts, but there are no isolation parts... The trans is dry still (Yep, I know)... And the motor is not running... I think this won’t be as “harsh” as it feels now when everything is put back together... Even if it is... I think I can deal with it until a better idea shows itself...

Thoughts?!

Okay, I’m off to bed...

Cheers for now!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 08-05-2017 at 04:08 PM.
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  #169  
Old 06-17-2017, 11:44 PM
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Wow, kudos. Looks like an insane amount ofvwork but should be worth the effort.
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  #170  
Old 06-18-2017, 12:00 AM
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Can you fab up some brackets and TIG it to the current arm? I do think youre on the right track though!
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