AWR-fix: e53 Fuel pump / siphon pump details

[scourtaud23]

So, having done around 350km since the fill up, I decided to take out the pump and see if I could get the piece out. After going through the getting the pump out joy, the fuel level was just below this piece.

I tried all I could without risking breaking something, it wouldn't come out. So I resorted to bending it in place, it is quite soft so after a few pressures on it, it seems to be in the right shape and angle (at least as good as I can get it while failing to get it out).



I also found the missing black tube, it was free in the tank, and the ending was just before the pump opening on the roof of the tank. I attached it back in place so it now is as it should. As it was, if it tried to transfer fuel, at least a part of it would not be transfered since it would fall on the flat top.

So now it looks close to as it should :



I should went and filled up as the tank dipped below a quarter this morning but its was pouring with rain with heavy winds so I gave up and decided I'd go another time

Before toying with the pump, Test number 6 read : (the car was not flat, angling to the driver's side)
18.0/ 0.7/ 18.8L
After :
18.3/ 1.1/ 19.4L

I'll go fill up tomorrow (if I get the chance) and see if it made any difference.

[scourtaud23]

So I went to fill up, obviously I failed, its exactly as before. I'll take it out one last time to check in case it has moved but I doubt it.

Before filling up : 13,4L (didn't record each side's value)
After filling up :
52.2/ 22.6/ 74.8L

Is there somewhere in the BMW software where the gauge needs calibration? My thinking is the pump part is not original but the assembly is so maybe someone played with it.

[andrewwynn]

I definitely approve of the minor change to the reading of the pump side. 1.1 much better. Key element: engine should be running because there is a constant circulation of gas out of the right side back to the left side and back to the right. So that the right side is also constantly spilling over into the left.

I'm not aware of any form of calibration but I'm curious about the low numbers when full even in my case about 10L shy of actual volume.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I'm not aware of any form of calibration but I'm curious about the low numbers when full even in my case about 10L shy of actual volume.

I filled mine today, right to the brim. The BC readings were:

55.0L/27.0L/82.0L

Which, as you say, seems about 10L short on the actual stated capacity.

[scourtaud23]

@wpoll : with thise readings, where was the needle on the gauge?

The previous time I filled up and insisted after the pump clicked, I got it up to about 80L and and the needle was stil 2 or 3 milimeters below the full mark.

I'm going to browse the various software to see if I can find something regarding the gauge calibration or sender calibration since the math from XXX Ohms to XXX Liters has to come from somewhere and I'm quite sure my cluster is the same as an M5 (4.6is) that probably doesn't have the same tank size (quick google say 70L and 78L). I'll have to check in the software if my cluster is original.
If my gauge is set up for 82 ou 93L (this still is a mystery) but the sender interpretation is set up for 70 ou 78L, it would explain the slight discrepancy. I'm not going to enjoy this considering the cold but I'll try and look into which module reads the sender units.

If it keeps bugging me, I'm going to change the pump and sender assembly but considering the left one is new (3 month old) and straight from BMW and it doesn't register completely full either, I'm perplexed.

I did however notice that while driving with test No6 opened, I see fuel going from left to right more "actively" now the tubes are in the correct place.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by scourtaud23

@wpoll : with thise readings, where was the needle on the gauge?

The previous time I filled up and insisted after the pump clicked, I got it up to about 80L and and the needle was stil 2 or 3 milimeters below the full mark.

After I fill up, the fuel guage needle is buried right to the top - slightly past full. My gauge is marked in litres, with 20 at 1/4, 40 at 1/2, 60 at 3/5 and MAX at full.

I usually drive about 100kms before the needle starts to move downwards at all.

[scourtaud23]

Thanks for that, I'm not sure what to make of it but I'm going to investigate a little more to see what I can figure out but right now its part raining and part snowing so I'm going to wait a little. After all my gauge is false but the right way.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by scourtaud23

Thanks for that, I'm not sure what to make of it but I'm going to investigate a little more to see what I can figure out but right now its part raining and part snowing so I'm going to wait a little. After all my gauge is false but the right way.

I only went back a few pages...and I didn't see where you did TEST #21 after replacing any components. I'm not even sure if I got the gist of what was replaced...but if your fuel gauge is not reading correctly or your TEST #6 numbers are way off...if you replace a fuel sender...you need to perform TEST #21. This will help with the "damping function" of data. Without a reset it may take multiple fill-ups for the data to correct itself after replacing components that deal with sending fuel consumption data to the IKE.

Also, when you go to the 2nd screen of TEST 6...what are your "PHASE" numbers? Is it PHASE 1, PHASE 2, OR PHASE 3? The "phase" number reveals if one of the fuel senders is not working properly.

{see description of TEST 6 for "phase" info}



{see description of TEST 21 for reset info}

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

I only went back a few pages...and I didn't see where you did TEST #21 after replacing any components. I'm not even sure if I got the gist of what was replaced...but if your fuel gauge is not reading correctly or your TEST #6 numbers are way off...if you replace a fuel sender...you need to perform TEST #21. This will help with the "damping function" of data. Without a reset it may take multiple fill-ups for the data to correct itself after replacing components that deal with sending fuel consumption data to the IKE.

Also, when you go to the 2nd screen of TEST 6...what are your "PHASE" numbers? Is it PHASE 1, PHASE 2, OR PHASE 3? The "phase" number reveals if one of the fuel senders is not working properly.

{see description of TEST 6 for "phase" info}



{see description of TEST 21 for reset info}

thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou!

I remembered 'i saw this somewhere' but it took me a couple hours to figure out where! I 'knew' i saw it on my detailed fuel supply thread, so i just had to read post-by-post until i found it!

there is literally NOTHING on the internet that returns anything helpful when you search anything related to 'reset fuel gauge bmw' literally nothing useful.

I remembered that 'somebody posted how to reset' after 'replacing a fuel sender' and somewhere, and i sure was hoping it was on this thread!

Story to follow.

[andrewwynn]

Great call on 21. I don't think I get phase info I have the basic dash but for those with the fancy dash that's helpful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro