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  #71  
Old 12-15-2017, 04:14 AM
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I agree that it would be the logical next step but it doesn't seem to be bent sadly and unless someone would have an old one to measure the angle or distance from the bottom of the pump when low, I don't see how I could adjust it.



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  #72  
Old 12-15-2017, 08:15 PM
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You are just trying to adjust to different not match something else.

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  #73  
Old 12-16-2017, 05:39 AM
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I'll give it a try, I'll need to fill up and set it up so it reads like the right one when in the tank.

I've been wondering how the sending part can seem so new compared to the rest of the assembly since its not available separately...
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  #74  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:59 AM
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Powerful reading on a Saturday morning. Thanks to andrewwynn and everyone who participated in this thread. Very educational.
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  #75  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:06 PM
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So I gave it a try, I bent the sender arm so that it read the same value as the left side sender (parked perfectly flat for a while) and I had filled up recently and only done about 40km since.

When I began the readings were:
414ohm left - 326ohm right.

I ended up with :
414ohm left - 414ohm right.

I went to fill up again (but couldn't put much fuel) and the gauge almost went to full.
Test N06 showed :
50L/ 27L /77L.

I must've missed something.

At this point, I think I'll have to drive more and see how it reacts and maybe learn to live with it. The left sender is 2 months old from BMW so I'd like to believe it.
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  #76  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:30 PM
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You have to re run 21 test but note that mine read 55/27/82 when full to max. Showing 5Lb more on the left but 10L less than capacity. Mine does show the needle past full when full though.

The tweak did exactly what it was supposed to do: get both senders to read the same when full. Is seems like they are both reading low like they should be 450 Ω. You you can put a 25 Ω resistor in series but that will make the low end read higher. Since there is at least 5L of gas after zero I think that may be preferable but I think you can now tweak the settings with software and achieve what you want.


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  #77  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:34 PM
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Looking at the photo of the tank, the top of the tank is symertrical so adding an offset of say 5L per side if you can in software to get test six to read closer to actual capacity may do what you want.

I never reset mine after replacing the pump recently and I'm about to fill the tank for a 3 hour drive home tomorrow. I will report back if I get different values after my fill up post 21 reset.


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  #78  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:42 PM
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I'll re-run test 21 to be sure but considering the right one went directly to 27 after fill up (and was at 26.8 when I got home 15km later) and the left one wasn't touched since I ran test 21 2 days ago, I doubt I'll get the correct value. Worth a try.

I was thinking tomorrow I might open up the covers again an see if the values are still the same since I fllled up.

Just to be clear when I did the adjustments, I wasn't completely full, just close to full.

I'm curious to see your results.
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  #79  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:52 AM
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Just found this thread. Many thanks Andrewwynn. One thing I always do to monitor fuel efficiency I reset the trip odometer each time I fill up. With your research Iím going to go even further after the warnings



Garage:
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E90 325i N52 born 2006-03-28 [TOTALED]
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2003-03-04 E53 X5 4.4i M62 [SOLD]
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  #80  
Old 12-18-2017, 01:10 AM
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@xb: you do need to do the "DTE to zero" test periodically. But once to confirm the car will drive to single digits (under controled circumstances such as not on the way to the airport and have some gas in a can or a friend to call).

Once you've verified you can use all your gas you should be good in case of emergency to -15 miles or so. (15 miles past zero).

That will vary car to car. Make sure your test six shows about 1.2 to 1.5L once the right side is in waterfall mode (constantly spilling over into the left side).


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