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  #101  
Old 01-23-2018, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech;
If you put in a backup-ring the o-ring will not get pushed out like that. It almost looks like it was designed to have a backup ring installed and they forgot to put it in at the factory.

Not sure where you mean to put a backup ring but the design doesn't hold the seal evenly it is literally "designed to fail" the plastic bends enough to let the o-ring pop out of the groove eventually.

I recommend some preventive maintenance on the o-ring before 100,000 miles.

If caught before the o-ring fails simply tighten the connection and install a screw or a hose clamp or even zip tie in the right place.

I will take pictures of any fix I engineer of course.

If I replaced the part I will put in a screw to prevent it from ever coming apart
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  #102  
Old 01-23-2018, 01:43 PM
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@ spun: there are two seals and the one has no o-ring and I can't remember if that one is part of the replacement part but if it's not it will surely be leaking on yours by now. I used Teflon tape to seal mine when reassembled it. A hose clamp on the outside would probably also work


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  #103  
Old 01-23-2018, 01:48 PM
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By back-up ring I mean a thin split plastic or metal ring beside the o-ring on the low pressure side. They often get used in hydraulics for this exact reason. The backup ring not only prevents the o-ring from being squeezed out it also keeps the gap more even and round.
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Last edited by 80stech; 01-23-2018 at 01:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #104  
Old 01-23-2018, 02:33 PM
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That wouldn't help but a spacer like a wrap of enough Teflon to prevent the cylinder from going crooked would probably work but not as good as a screw. The screw could also be installed to just grab the internal post without going through to the inside that's even better.
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  #105  
Old 04-30-2018, 05:13 PM
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I've got a good one for you tonight (Europe time).

I've driven close to a 1000 miles this week end (500 each way). Getting back this evening, my fuel went low, very low with no pump for 50 miles and I ended up having the car die on me when I finally got in sight of a pump. threw it in neutral and coasted it to the pump.

I tried starting it up with no success so I assume it was empty, the fuel gauge showed very empty.

Filled it up, put in as much as I could, insisting when the pump stopped : 74.77L

Started it up, let it run a few minutes, tried to fill it some more: 3.24L (and a small puddle stayed above the flap in the filler neck.

So my fuel tank is missing around 15 to 20L.

The only idea I can come up with is that the pump isn't properly seated but I doubt its the case (already made that mistake) and I doubt this would justify 15 to 20L not showing on the fuel gauge or in the engine to run.

Any ideas?
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  #106  
Old 04-30-2018, 05:43 PM
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Gauge shows empty but engine is fuel starved and there is 20L in the tank.

So break it down to components:

I'm not sure if you were able to start up without issue but assuming also true:

1- if fuel starved with gas remaining means the siphon isn't working (if you can start when adding fuel)

2- if there is still fuel and the gauge reads zero there is *additionally* a problem with the float/sensor.

3- siphon not working is usually one of two things: weak electric pump or leaky "seal" going into the jet pump.

I would crack the seal on the left sender and raise it up a bit, put the key to the "run" position and look for leaks. Only lift it a crack I got sprayed pretty hard when I opened it 3/4"

If no spray it's either the pump or the FPR but if the FPR isn't retuning enough gas to siphon I would expect to see too high of pressure at the rail so that's another test you can do.

Use test six to determine the levels in the tank unfortunately you have to drive a good while to empty 96L but drive with test six going until the right side drops while the left side doesn't. Then you can determine if the problem is out of the normal.

If there is a plugged siphon foot for example the gas will dump through the pressure relief into the surge tank and you will effectively have a 5L gas tank.

If the relief valve is partly stuck open similarly you can get partial siphon. You can crack the seal on the right sender unit and observe the overflow valve to determine if gas is coming out.

My right float is getting caught and gets stuck about 3.5L from zero it's annoying because it throws off my DTE by 20 miles I will fix that soon with photos and add the appropriate feedback where it belongs
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  #107  
Old 05-03-2018, 06:28 PM
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I'll look into this but I'm not quite clear what could the issue be since I can use 75L of the tank consistently and the fuel gauge is on par with this volume.

Just so I'm clear, the right side should start dropping before the left side?
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  #108  
Old 05-03-2018, 07:39 PM
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For the first 60miles or so the gauge will not change as the top 10% is off scale.

Once 10% of the fuel is consumed both fuel sensors will drop until there is about 27L total the right side sensor will stop dropping and only the left will drop.

At about 40 miles DTE the left side will be close to zero. Once the left side is zero the right side will start to drop

The right side should be about 1.4L when the left is zero then add it drops to zero, the DTE should end up at 0 right as the right side hits 0.0L.

There will be about 3.6L left in the surge tank when that happens but you should be able to safely drive down to 0 DTE.

The full value on the gauge is about 10L less then the full capacity of the tank near that in mind
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  #109  
Old 08-08-2018, 08:25 AM
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Its been a while and I haven't had time to properly test the range as we've been moving a lot and on a trip is not the best time to toy with this.


I however have another issue that might be linked or not, but I'm getting fed up with this fuel tank.


For the second time in 2 weeks, my right fuel sender has broken. And I do mean broken.


It first happened on july 15, tank around a quarter full, went to fill up and the needle never came up, slowly fading down to empty as the range went down after fill up.


I took it out, found it broken (resistor plate shattered and plastic holder broken), blamed the heat, and changed it. It worked for a few tanks of fuel then it happened again maybe 10 days after fitting the new one, I couldn't open the tank right away so it waited until today and same thing, resistor plate broken and plastic holder broken also.


It seems as if the tank compresses itself. I guess it could be possible but that would be what the vent valve is for and I got no codes... Could the valve be stuck open and pull vaccum from the tank to the point of collapsing it?


INPA says its closed with the engine off and when running for the first 20 minutes.


As a side note, I've changed the PCV and taken care of all vaccum leaks in april but the temps here stayed on the low side until july so maybe heat could be a factor, daytime difference being around 15 to 20 degrees Celcius.
I would also like to point out that despite not being able to swear the previous sender was correctly installed in the tank, I have not doubts about this latest one as I wondered if this could have been the reason for the previous failure.



I'm open to all ideas, here are the pictures of the latest broken sender.





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  #110  
Old 08-08-2018, 08:51 AM
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I am not sure how the vent valve works in this system but the purge valve is hooked to manifold vacuum and can definitely fail open.
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