Recently purchased an E53. Have questions!

[LVP]

For the wipers, if they didn't seat the sensor back to the glass correctly, or if there are bubbles in the sensing area, that could have an effect. For mine it was the module itself. You can unclip it (be careful!) from the holder that is attached to the glass. I snagged a used module from a wrecker, so I was able to see how it was supposed to unclip. On the connector side of the module, at each end of the module, you'll see two little flush plastic tabs that almost have the same profiles as the connector (but smaller). You push those in and in a direction parallel to the glass surface. This will push the long plastic pin out the backside of the module. Do this on both sides and it'll allow the module to release from the bracket that is attached to the glass.

When my module went, I unplugged it. It got me intermittent wipers back (no sensing) but I lost the automatic headlights. If you have the software you can test the module as well. I used DIS but INPA I think will give you the light values too. Some say you have to reset or reteach the module. I didn't and have had no issues.

Hope that helps.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

Thanks for the replies so far, great info here!

My X5 Doesn't Go To Sleep

As it says on the tin, mine does not seem to go to sleep after 16 minutes like most do! I've confirmed with the 12v outlet next to the ashtray; mine never turns off. I've also noticed that the Park light is still on hours after I've locked the vehicle. I've read on various forums that this is normal for some models?





Here's the high-res version of that photo. I didn't notice that before, but it looks like glue or something...
http://i.imgur.com/MJhAmHL.jpg

According to the service history I received with the car and the previous owner's knowledge (both of which go back to about 2004) the windshield has never been replaced. I guess the first owner could have had it done and it wasn't in the history?

Either way, I'm going to check out the windshield tomorrow. If it's not BMW glass I'm just gonna live with it. I've heard that OEM windshields for these can run over $600 :/

As for automatic headlights, isn't that just a DRL/idiot mode on U.S. 2003 and below? When I set the lights to Auto they run all the time (day and night) until I turn off the vehicle. Since I have the Xenons (and they're pricey) I never use the Auto setting.



Right, I'll check on it tomorrow. I can honestly live without the feature so it's not a huge deal.

Take the cover off the sensor under your mirror and check to see if it is mounted weird or unplugged. The headlights should not be on in the auto setting on a sunny day. Something is wrong. The cloudy edges tell me that the sensor prism has been replaced (badly) but again, I can't really tell without being there myself and having a look. The plastic cover splits down the middle. Be careful and move the mirror around to get it out. I just replaced my windshield in my E46 and it was not BMW stamped but I did buy the OEM supplier Saint Gobain Sekurit glass. I would recommend Saint Gobain Sekurit or Pilkington. My sensor works perfect and the prism come on the glass from the manufacturer. The guys from ABRA up by the lake in our area did mine for around $400 with a seal from Hendrick on my E46.

As far as your X5 not going to sleep, I can't believe you don't have a dead battery in the morning. When mine had this issue, (twice) the battery would die in less than 2 days. First time it was the final stage resistor and second time it was the telematics module.

[SineDeviance]

Originally Posted by LVP

For the wipers, if they didn't seat the sensor back to the glass correctly, or if there are bubbles in the sensing area, that could have an effect. For mine it was the module itself. You can unclip it (be careful!) from the holder that is attached to the glass. I snagged a used module from a wrecker, so I was able to see how it was supposed to unclip. On the connector side of the module, at each end of the module, you'll see two little flush plastic tabs that almost have the same profiles as the connector (but smaller). You push those in and in a direction parallel to the glass surface. This will push the long plastic pin out the backside of the module. Do this on both sides and it'll allow the module to release from the bracket that is attached to the glass.

When my module went, I unplugged it. It got me intermittent wipers back (no sensing) but I lost the automatic headlights. If you have the software you can test the module as well. I used DIS but INPA I think will give you the light values too. Some say you have to reset or reteach the module. I didn't and have had no issues.

Hope that helps.

It does, thanks a bunch.

I've already got a copy of the INPA 6.4.3 image with everything on it. I just happened to have a Dell Latitude D530 laptop with XP and a serial port laying around, specs are fairly similar to the GT1 T30. So, I've got almost everything I'll need, I just haven't ordered the K-Line cable yet.

About that ... I've read conflicting reports on K-Line, which is why I haven't ordered one yet. Some people say that only a serial cable will work properly. Others say USB is fine. Can I get a ruling on that?

Originally Posted by Overboost

Take the cover off the sensor under your mirror and check to see if it is mounted weird or unplugged. The headlights should not be on in the auto setting on a sunny day. Something is wrong. The cloudy edges tell me that the sensor prism has been replaced (badly) but again, I can't really tell without being there myself and having a look. The plastic cover splits down the middle. Be careful and move the mirror around to get it out. I just replaced my windshield in my E46 and it was not BMW stamped but I did buy the OEM supplier Saint Gobain Sekurit glass. I would recommend Saint Gobain Sekurit or Pilkington. My sensor works perfect and the prism come on the glass from the manufacturer. The guys from ABRA up by the lake in our area did mine for around $400 with a seal from Hendrick on my E46.

Thanks for the input on that! $400 is still what I'd consider to be a fairly expensive fix for a small gain. I try to consider the law of diminishing returns for things like this

If you consider that I paid $2500 for the car, plus another ~$550 for an alternator (which I replaced myself) and a brand-new set of tires combined, you would probably understand where I'm coming from.

Originally Posted by Overboost

As far as your X5 not going to sleep, I can't believe you don't have a dead battery in the morning. When mine had this issue, (twice) the battery would die in less than 2 days. First time it was the final stage resistor and second time it was the telematics module.

That's odd, it's sat for at least a few days and it cranked right up! I haven't run a dark current test but OBD voltages always look good and everything seems to be working fine so far.

I have noticed a buzzing sound that seems like it's coming from the climate control panel after I shut off the car (and sometimes when I get back in the following day.) It kinda sounds like a cabin fan on the lowest setting. I just assumed it was the timed vent fan. My MID has a ton of missing pixels so I currently can't check/change the settings on that module.

Now I do want to try a dark current test. How do we do that effectively on these cars? Is there even a way to force it to go into 'sleep' mode?

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

I have noticed a buzzing sound that seems like it's coming from the climate control panel after I shut off the car (and sometimes when I get back in the following day.) It kinda sounds like a cabin fan on the lowest setting. I just assumed it was the timed vent fan. My MID has a ton of missing pixels so I currently can't check/change the settings on that module.

There's a little fan inside the IHKA control panel that is included in the 16 minute consumer cut-off feature.

This little fan turns on as soon as a wake-up call is made to the P-bus. It begins to draw cabin air in across a thermistor which facilitates maintaining the temperatue set on the IHKA. This fan continues to run up to 16 minutes (if no calls are made on the P-bus) in case you come back to the vehicle for more driving.

So when you unlocked the vehicle with remote key or lifted the door handle...the little fan turns on...and if you're sitting in the car...it will stay on after shutting the engine off for 16 minutes. If no calls are made on the P-bus...then the little fan will shut off. If you activate anything on the P-bus...then the fan will continue to run.

[srmmmm]

"Transmission:

As far as I can tell, mine has the A5S390R. Sometimes, the transmission exhibits hard up-shifts even with fairly restrained driving. Going from start to stop will kick like a mule about every 10th or 15th time. This also occurs at random gear shifts seemingly through the entire range; it's not always 1-2, or when I go from stop to start. Transmission temp seems to have no bearing on hard shifting.

More worrying - when I floor the pedal on the highway, it will very rarely rev up past redline and hold it for about a second before shifting. This has happened a few times since I've owned the car.

I've Googled these problems extensively but nothing concrete has presented itself.

1. People say there is an EGS firmware update. Could that solve the problem?
2. Service history shows no transmission service; could it just be old fluid/filter causing these problems?
3. Would I be taking a risk by draining it and replacing the fluid/filter at this point?"

Your vehicle has the GM 5L40E transmission. Considering the mileage on the unit, I would strongly recommend no fluid change. Instead, look into the firmware update. Mine was done in 2006 at 54,000 miles and I have not experienced any shifting issues at all.

I would recommend you inspect the front driveshaft splines going into the transfer case though. AC evaporator condensate dripping on the driveshaft, combined with inadequate lubrication from the factory caused rust and eventual spline failure on many E53s.

2002 X5 3.0 317,600 miles (Original transmission fluid, and yes, I tow)
2014 428i 26,000 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird Under restoration

[SineDeviance]

It turns out that the windshield is an aftermarket unit, so I'm boned on the rain sensor. Oh wells :/

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

There's a little fan inside the IHKA control panel that is included in the 16 minute consumer cut-off feature.
...

That is all great info, thanks a bunch! I now know for a fact that the vehicle isn't going to sleep. I just looked in the window after the car has been parked for an hour, and the park LED along with shift indicator lights (P, R, N, D) were all still lit.

I looked up some guides on how to perform a parasitic draw test in these cars. I'll try to do some over the next few days.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

Your vehicle has the GM 5L40E transmission.

You sure? According to this, X5's were equipped with the A5S390R (which is BMW's part number for the GM 5L50.)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_5L4..._.28A5S390R.29

The 5L40-E is rated for a max 4,000lb GVWR, while the 5L50 is rated for 5,000. It does make sense considering the X5 3.0i's curb weight is pushing 5,000.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

Considering the mileage on the unit, I would strongly recommend no fluid change. Instead, look into the firmware update. Mine was done in 2006 at 54,000 miles and I have not experienced any shifting issues at all.

I guess I'll look into it some more, thanks! I'm thinking I'll probably need to flash it myself if there's an update. I called Hendrick BMW's service department last week and asked about transmission firmware upgrades after reading about it, but nobody seemed to know what I was talking about. They wanted me to bring it in for a diagnostic instead (meaning they wanted to make a quick $200 for doing absolutely nothing at all.) I declined for obvious reasons.

Originally Posted by srmmmm

I would recommend you inspect the front driveshaft splines going into the transfer case though. AC evaporator condensate dripping on the driveshaft, combined with inadequate lubrication from the factory caused rust and eventual spline failure on many E53s.

That's not good. I'm guessing I need to remove the front driveshaft to check? How involved a process is that, roughly? And will I need any special tools?

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by SineDeviance

It turns out that the windshield is an aftermarket unit, so I'm boned on the rain sensor. Oh wells :/

I guess I'll look into it some more, thanks! I'm thinking I'll probably need to flash it myself if there's an update. I called Hendrick BMW's service department last week and asked about transmission firmware upgrades after reading about it, but nobody seemed to know what I was talking about. They wanted me to bring it in for a diagnostic instead (meaning they wanted to make a quick $200 for doing absolutely nothing at all.) I declined for obvious reasons.

Yeah the Hendricks service advisors have told me countless times my retrofits will not work and it couldn't even be done. When I retrofitted the auto lights and auto wipers, they told me I had to buy a brand new LCM from them at $800 and spend another $200 for the VIN/mileage coding to eliminate the tamper dot. And because my car did not come from the factory that way, the wiring was non existent and would not be possible. LMAO, I just smile and offer to show them how I did it. You should have seen their faces.

Front Windshield Replacement Parts - E46Fanatics

[Qsilver7]

Just an FYI to complicate things....I'm not sure why your fellow 02 model year e53 owners haven't spoken up....there are many past threads about how early build e53 X5s orange gear shift light does not go out.

For example...here's a thread from 2010: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...in-issues.html

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Just an FYI to complicate things....I'm not sure why your fellow 02 model year e53 owners haven't spoken up....there are many past threads about how early build e53 X5s orange gear shift light does not go out.

For example...here's a thread from 2010: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...in-issues.html

Thank you for the knowledge Qsilver7. I have an 04 so it definitely goes to sleep and the park indicator goes off as does the rear window lock light on the door switch. This provided a quick peek into my sleeping issues when I had them. I could just look through the window and see if she was sleeping or not. From reading the post you provided it looks like this change occurred in 2003 models. Learning everyday!

[SineDeviance]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Yeah the Hendricks service advisors have told me countless times my retrofits will not work and it couldn't even be done. When I retrofitted the auto lights and auto wipers, they told me I had to buy a brand new LCM from them at $800 and spend another $200 for the VIN/mileage coding to eliminate the tamper dot. And because my car did not come from the factory that way, the wiring was non existent and would not be possible. LMAO, I just smile and offer to show them how I did it. You should have seen their faces.

Nice man! I have a couple stories like that. I love making dealer service eat it!

Originally Posted by Overboost

Front Windshield Replacement Parts - E46Fanatics

Thanks for that. I guess I should check out FCP Euro.

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Just an FYI to complicate things....I'm not sure why your fellow 02 model year e53 owners haven't spoken up....there are many past threads about how early build e53 X5s orange gear shift light does not go out.

For example...here's a thread from 2010: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...in-issues.html

See, I read that thread and I've been wondering if it was correct or not. One thread says the lights stay on, another says they don't. It's good to have confirmation. I guess that's one problem solved, you gotta love the things that aren't actually broken.

I'm still going to do the draw test and make sure it's not pulling more than 30mA or so.

Originally Posted by Overboost

Thank you for the knowledge Qsilver7. I have an 04 so it definitely goes to sleep and the park indicator goes off as does the rear window lock light on the door switch. This provided a quick peek into my sleeping issues when I had them. I could just look through the window and see if she was sleeping or not. From reading the post you provided it looks like this change occurred in 2003 models. Learning everyday!

I want to say thanks, too.

I consider myself to be a fairly experienced mechanic/technician, but before buying the X5 last month I had zero experience working on German and/or Luxury cars. Figuring some of this electrical/programming stuff out is a little like being thrown to the wolves. I tried to do a ton of research before and after buying this car, but there's a lot of conflicting information out there and after a while it all kinda runs together. There's just so much more to learn with these cars. Still, I'm trying to step my game up.