Oil change, now idles poorly (beginner)

[mcfee03]

UPDATE
Turns out my DISA valve broke, and replacing it fixed the idling. However, the pin is missing, and odb codes as per below.

I bought an inspection camera. Spent hours looking for the DISA PIN, but couldn't find it.

As advised, I removed the intake. Daunting for sure (first time car owner here). I'll be replacing the CCV (as it was entirely cracked).

But the PIN is NOT in the intake!

I took a photo of the valve which looks like it has metal shards. Do you think that could be the pin?

Link to photo of the valve


Here is a a video of most of the pins. Does anything look wrong there?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bze...hTb3lwQnM/view

Could any of these ODB faults be related to the PIN?

- Powertrain Faults P1349, P1351, and P1354 "Misfire Cylinder X with fuel cut-off '" (that's' cylinders 4, 5 and 6)

- Error P0102 (MAF low input)

- P0155 (O2 Sensor Heat Circuit).

- Pending fault- P0300 ("Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected").
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ORIGINAL POST
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Hi,

Got my e53 a few weeks ago and been running very smoothly. It's a 2002 e53 X5, with the 3.0l petrol engine.

The previous owner said they hadn't done an oil change in a while. So I thought I'd do it myself as my first "mechanic" task.

I look through a few guides, and followed them pretty much precisely.

1. I took the oil filter cap off
2. The old oil filter was completely saturated with oil (is that bad?)
3. I replaced the rubber ring (lubed it) and the filter.
4. I took off the bolt plug underneath, and about 6 litres of black oil came out
5. I poured 6.5 litres of LL01 5w40 oil in.
6. I started the car for about 30 seconds. I then checked the dipstick. It was filled past the maximum indicator. I then wiped the stick clean, and checked again, but it was not reaching the minimum...

Have I over/under filled my oil?


The car idles very shakey now. Once the revs drop to about 600rpm, it feels as if it will stall. It accelerates differently than before.

the exhaust sounds different. It has an subtle "chug"/ticking noise.

A bit of oil has come out of the flap underneath (not the flap I drained my oil on).

Here is a video, firstly I accurate to 1000rpm. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HI0a0QydDVWVnc

[zukgod1]

You didn't say what engine you have so....
I can't see anything on your list that is a issue. I would check the intake ducting. Make sure something hasn't came unplugged or broken. If there is a hole in the main ducting it will idle funky.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by zukgod1

You didn't say what engine you have so....
I can't see anything on your list that is a issue. I would check the intake ducting. Make sure something hasn't came unplugged or broken. If there is a hole in the main ducting it will idle funky.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Thanks, updated to say my engine (3.0l petrol).

When you say intake ducting, that's the part that connects to the plastic cover I remove at the front of the engine?

[crystalworks]

This is going to be a tough vehicle to cut your teeth on mechanically as it seems you are just starting to get into the world of shadetree mechanic work.

The intake is the duct with the MAF sensor on it (big plastic tube with connector behind the air filter housing) and will have pleats on it. Looks kind of like an accordion. They have a habit of getting brittle and cracking in between the pleats.

[mcfee03]

Yes it will be challenging.

Would it be a coincidence that they got brittle and cracked? Or is that something that can come as a by product of a new oil?

Is this the one? Bottom right.

[mcfee03]

Also, just added video to OP (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bz...HI0a0QydDVWVnc).

Also the exhaust sounds different. It has an subtle "chug" noise.

[mcfee03]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

The intake is the duct with the MAF sensor on it (big plastic tube with connector behind the air filter housing) and will have pleats on it.

So I disconnected the MAF whilst the engine was running. It gave a prog. `something` error on the dash.

Without the MAF, the car ldle's much BETTER.


Here is a photo of my MAF:

I noticed a broken rubber o-ring


But the MAF seems clean.


Could the broken o-ring be the cause?

[crystalworks]

Yes, that big plastic hose on the bottom of your picture is the one I was referring to. Looks like it might be cracked from the photo. Since you took the MAF out, shine a good flashlight into that hose and then see if you can see any light leakage from around those pleated areas. Move the hose around a little to flex the pleats... if you see light then it is letting in unmetered (not gone through the MAF) air and will cause a rough idle and CEL.

That o-ring could also cause unmetered air if the o-ring is on the rear side of the MAF which it appears to be from the air flow arrow. Will need to be replaced.

Edit: Also wanted to add that I am not sure why your new idle problems were "caused" by an oil change. The only sources of vacuum leaks from that would be leaving the oil fill cap off the engine or not putting the dip stick back in. Both would be fairly obvious I would think.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by mcfee03

2. The old oil filter was completely saturated with oil (is that bad?)

[jsoto]

LOL. I think Overboost is kindly saying oil on your oil filter is a good thing