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  #21  
Old 06-27-2021, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftf19 View Post
Does anyone have a diagram of all the grounds for a 2002 E53? It seems the more I read another new one pops up.
Thanks
Not sure what engine your X5 has (3.0i, 3.0d, 4.4i, 4.6iS etc.) and it matters since there are some wiring differnces between the versions.

But no matter what engine you have, I doubt you'll find a single diagram showing all the ground points - there are dozens of them.

What specific problem are you chasing (in relation to ground points)? Is this the excessive current draw?

It's unlikely a poor ground connection will casue an excessive current draw - rather more likely the opposite. Bad connections tend to decrease current flow in circuits.

I'd direct you back to your other thread about this issue but that one has sadly already gone off into the weeds...

If you have access to wiring diagrams and understand them to some degree, then try to isolate various systems to exclude them one-by-one. Fuses can pulled to do this, but start with e BIG fuses, then work you way down to the smaller ones once you isolate with sub-system is drawing the current.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2021, 01:23 AM
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Engine ground cable

If you are concerned about a bad engine ground measure the voltage from engine block to B- jump terminal when you start. If it's low mV the ground is good. If the ground is bad you can see 1-2v or more. You can search for a YouTube video with a bad ground test with actual voltage.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-27-2021 at 09:56 AM.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2021, 01:26 PM
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Thanks guys gonna do that B post test first, I cant believe I overlooked that, newbie mistake
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2021, 01:31 PM
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Engine ground cable

Measure the Ω from B+ to ground when detached. It should be open. If you meausure 1.5 Ω or so you just found your 10a draw.

I don't remember if the V8 has the B+ disconnect so inform us which engine.

I've refurbished a couple valeo alternator and replaced a few. A bad VR can give you every symptom you described so far.
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2021, 06:23 PM
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- the voltage regulator (VR) on the back of the alternator could the root cause of all your issues... failing battery, limp-mode, battery drain etc.
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2021, 06:49 AM
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Its a V8. I really think its the alternator because I really dont want to change it as it seems to be a beast to get to! What else could fry a fairly new good battery like that?
Thanks guys
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  #27  
Old 06-28-2021, 11:16 AM
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Any constant drain will kill a battery.

Disconnect the alternator.

Post the last seven of your VIN so we can look at the real oem and determine which alternator.

The m62 I've worked on had water cooled models and not terribly difficult to r & r. Comes right out the front only difficulty usually is to remove the radiator fan
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  #28  
Old 06-28-2021, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Any constant drain will kill a battery.

Disconnect the alternator.

Post the last seven of your VIN so we can look at the real oem and determine which alternator.

The m62 I've worked on had water cooled models and not terribly difficult to r & r. Comes right out the front only difficulty usually is to remove the radiator fan
@andrew, you might have already answered this before but do you prefer the Bosch or the Valeo alternator on the M54? Just curious...
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  #29  
Old 06-28-2021, 09:06 PM
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Ok all, thanks for all the help! When I pulled the b+ cable off I got a 5 amp drop which brought me down to normal. So the picture show is the b+ wire right So I am guessing that the alternator is fried? And I am sure you all know the next question, is there a thread out there with the easiest way to replace the alternator? I watched a couple of videos seems like a pain but I hope this solves most the TCC problem, fingers crossed. Anyway thank you all so much and I will have plenty more noob questions for you all, hopefully some of you stay with me. Gonna change the alternator this weekend, stay tuned.
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  #30  
Old 06-29-2021, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RocketyMan View Post
@andrew, you might have already answered this before but do you prefer the Bosch or the Valeo alternator on the M54? Just curious...

Valeo.

Much easier to refurbish the brush/slip rings, also when mine failed after 2-3 years from slip ring replace I decided let's go with Bosch because the VR is available in local stores for under $40.

That backfired badly : the Bosch lasted one drive.

Turns out prob because they used Chinese VR on the reman but it turned me off of Bosch and Im back to Valeo.

I would be ok with NEW Bosch but Id still be leery of using just from getting burned.


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