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#21
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But no matter what engine you have, I doubt you'll find a single diagram showing all the ground points - there are dozens of them. What specific problem are you chasing (in relation to ground points)? Is this the excessive current draw? It's unlikely a poor ground connection will casue an excessive current draw - rather more likely the opposite. Bad connections tend to decrease current flow in circuits. I'd direct you back to your other thread about this issue but that one has sadly already gone off into the weeds... If you have access to wiring diagrams and understand them to some degree, then try to isolate various systems to exclude them one-by-one. Fuses can pulled to do this, but start with e BIG fuses, then work you way down to the smaller ones once you isolate with sub-system is drawing the current.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#22
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Engine ground cable
If you are concerned about a bad engine ground measure the voltage from engine block to B- jump terminal when you start. If it's low mV the ground is good. If the ground is bad you can see 1-2v or more. You can search for a YouTube video with a bad ground test with actual voltage.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 06-27-2021 at 09:56 AM. |
#23
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Thanks guys gonna do that B post test first, I cant believe I overlooked that, newbie mistake
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#24
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Engine ground cable
Measure the Ω from B+ to ground when detached. It should be open. If you meausure 1.5 Ω or so you just found your 10a draw.
I don't remember if the V8 has the B+ disconnect so inform us which engine. I've refurbished a couple valeo alternator and replaced a few. A bad VR can give you every symptom you described so far.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#25
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- the voltage regulator (VR) on the back of the alternator could the root cause of all your issues... failing battery, limp-mode, battery drain etc.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#26
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Its a V8. I really think its the alternator because I really dont want to change it as it seems to be a beast to get to! What else could fry a fairly new good battery like that?
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#27
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Any constant drain will kill a battery.
Disconnect the alternator. Post the last seven of your VIN so we can look at the real oem and determine which alternator. The m62 I've worked on had water cooled models and not terribly difficult to r & r. Comes right out the front only difficulty usually is to remove the radiator fan
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#28
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
#29
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Ok all, thanks for all the help! When I pulled the b+ cable off I got a 5 amp drop which brought me down to normal. So the picture show is the b+ wire right So I am guessing that the alternator is fried? And I am sure you all know the next question, is there a thread out there with the easiest way to replace the alternator? I watched a couple of videos seems like a pain but I hope this solves most the TCC problem, fingers crossed. Anyway thank you all so much and I will have plenty more noob questions for you all, hopefully some of you stay with me. Gonna change the alternator this weekend, stay tuned.
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#30
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Valeo. Much easier to refurbish the brush/slip rings, also when mine failed after 2-3 years from slip ring replace I decided let's go with Bosch because the VR is available in local stores for under $40. That backfired badly : the Bosch lasted one drive. Turns out prob because they used Chinese VR on the reman but it turned me off of Bosch and I’m back to Valeo. I would be ok with NEW Bosch but I’d still be leery of using just from getting burned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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