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  #11  
Old 03-24-2018, 07:55 PM
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I got it off, I have oil that I can tell going into the booster itself. It is orange with what looks like surface rust but I guess I can expect that from a twelve year old vehicle. I also have no oil on the inside of the check valve when I stuck my finger inside of it. Guess I have to pull it apart and blow in to it to see if it's actually working...we may have different problems.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2018, 07:58 PM
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Different problems but the fix is the same - replace vacuum pump o-rings, replace all the vacuum lines, replace booster and maybe the master cylinder while you’re at at.

There should be NO oil inside the booster at any vehicle age. There are seals inside the booster that will fail once contaminated with oil.

Or risk sliding into the car in front one day when you try to stop.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2018, 07:59 PM
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I'm sorry, I meant no oil going into it. Dyslexia won that sentence.
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  #14  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ID4.8 View Post
I'm sorry, I meant no oil going into it. Dyslexia won that sentence.
Good. Just for reference what colour is he inside of your booster. Is it orange like mine? Don’t suppose you could grab a photo?

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  #15  
Old 03-24-2018, 08:04 PM
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I'll do my best, It's just going to be from my phone. It's all dry inside that I can see though, however, it is orange.
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2018, 11:57 PM
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Red face

Ok so I took off that plastic trim and found that the vacuum pump definitely has some oil coming off it. The bottom of the pump is soaked. It could be that the seals are toast. I can’t confirm that because I don’t have female torx sockets to take it off.

Also, I blew into the vacuum line at the booster end, there is little resistance. I traced the vacuum line back and I can’t “feel” a check valve anywhere... is there supposed to be one integrated into the line somewhere? Or did they do earlier versions without check valves and only the later revisions of the line come with check valves?
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  #17  
Old 03-25-2018, 11:14 AM
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I recently replace the brake booster/vacuum line/check valve, because after I turn off the X5, I heard what sounded like air escaping vacuum.
I did notice that everytime I press the brake pedal It made a weird noise and it was hard to brake, nothing like pushing wood. After I installed the vacuum line, the problem went away.

I hope this help.
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  #18  
Old 03-26-2018, 03:42 PM
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I had vacuum tested off the line going into the booster and it was sitting at almost 30in of vacuum. I'm assuming this means that my booster is shot if I had that much vacuum coming through the line.
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:11 PM
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Possibly, but not necessarily. I feel like there are a couple of things at play here. First issue is the vacuum pump leaking and/or producing poor vacuum. The second is the check valve.

If your vacuum pump is good but the check valve is failed, you may still have some power assist that tapers off. My brake pedal definitely is easy to press then its like the vacuum runs out and I'm trying to compress wood - the NON-RETURN valve is actually letting all kinds of shit from the vacuum pump (e.g. engine oil and other goo) get into the booster. Eventually, foreign contaminants will cause the booster to fail.

If the vacuum pump has failed, you'd get NO power assist at all. Your pedal is hard like trying to compress wood all the time. The vehicle still stops but you have to put a LOT of force into the brake pedal (Because you don't have any assistance from the brake booster).

I suppose there is also a third possibility - your brake booster has a torn diaphragm and can't maintain the vaccum.

I'm hoping mine is the first one, that way I can get the car back on the road with little effort. I've already ordered the o-rings (94mm ID x 3mm wall (inside pump) and 55mm ID x 2.5mm wall (outside pump) for rebuilding the pump. I figured I might as well do it since I found contaminants in the vacuum line. I think my booster is done for as well. The recall document I posted in this thread from BMW Australia says 'If any oil is found on the booster vacuum line, then the booster & master cylinder must be replaced'.

However it also says that it is "only in 10% of cases that booster needs to be replaced" as well so..
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2018, 11:45 PM
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I have the same symptoms as you; I lose pedal quickly after coming to a stop and then it's like I'm trying to compress concrete. If the check valve were bad would I still be holding almost 30in of vacuum? If all I need to do is replace this vacuum line because the valve is bad, I'll be more than ecstatic. I'm just not 100% on how this valve is supposed to work.
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