Has anybody tried other brand than OEM for replacing door handle.

[richardb]

I did ours with a cheap aftermarket handle closing in on 3 years ago, and it's held up just fine. Here's the video for it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge7-HJ0DUz0

Our passenger side handle failed a few weeks ago and I'll be doing that one soon enough as it's warm enough to, with another aftermarket handle.

[andrewwynn]

Cut off the nub it will never break again.

&Ix&: the zip tie was a back up for the case of the hinge breaking (also to show where to put off it already broke). I doubt it will ever be needed one cut off the nub that causes the break


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[Blackjetvette97]

Hi all,
AndrewWynn, great info and work there! I have my passenger door disassembled for the umpteenth time, fixing the never-ending window issues. I am modd'ing(involves PEX tubing, washers, etc ) the clip assy so it will hopefully last a looong time this go-round. Asshat dealer wrenched the left side clip screw/spreader assembly so tight I had to break the clip wings off to get it off the glass I noticed, upon inspecting my carrier, that it has a small piece chipped off the normal weak point area, so the destruction is beginning. I've read the posts about modd'ing/fixing them and wanted to ask you a couple questions. How did you cut the nub off the carrier(what did you use)? I'm also going to reinforce the cracking weak point with a metal ziptie that I have(should work great!).......Do you just go around the larger metal handle meat area below that weak point? Lastly, when cleaning and lubricating carrier, what all did you lube and what cleaner & lubricants did you use??
I've had carriers in the past with not only the normal weak spot broken, but also the spring and hook as well. Ridiculous design on these things

Thanks for your info and helpful posts!


Steve

[andrewwynn]

Nub cut with dremel but now I just replace the whole thing.

I think that part is an anti-jimmy device that doesn't normally interact with the lock. I didn't see anything that actually moves the part. I just remove the whole part now

If the hinge is just starting to crack it's the perfect time to add a doubled up stainless zip tie to prevent it from ever breaking.

Note that it's the actuator that freezes they usually causes the DHC to break.

I clean with brake clean. I usually use a silicone/Teflon spray (less is more) to lubricate but for the anti-freeze fix I wanted something thicker that will stay and prevent water from sticking on the Teflon pad. I like using super lube synthetic lube

[aureliusmax]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Nub cut with dremel but now I just replace the whole thing.

I think that part is an anti-jimmy device that doesn't normally interact with the lock. I didn't see anything that actually moves the part. I just remove the whole part now

If the hinge is just starting to crack it's the perfect time to add a doubled up stainless zip tie to prevent it from ever breaking.

Note that it's the actuator that freezes they usually causes the DHC to break.

I clean with brake clean. I usually use a silicone/Teflon spray (less is more) to lubricate but for the anti-freeze fix I wanted something thicker that will stay and prevent water from sticking on the Teflon pad. I like using super lube synthetic lube

is it not just operator error when they attempt to pull up on the handle when the door's are locked that cause the breaks ?

[andrewwynn]

I originally thought that was the case but it's really not. The primary reason for breakage is when the actuator freezes and the user pulls on the handle forecably.

The problem is exacerbated by the life training of door seal freeze. Where you need to pull extra hard to break the frozen seal. The force multiplication on the hinge will break the hinge.

With a little training, you and your passengers can recognize when the door handle doesn't lift and then open the door from the inside and defrost the actuator.

Watch my videos of how the actuator and DHC function.

3 of 8 of our DHC are zip tie repaired. It's stronger than original and the base bracket is the OE part so of course a perfect fit.

[aureliusmax]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I originally thought that was the case but it's really not. The primary reason for breakage is when the actuator freezes and the user pulls on the handle forecably.

The problem is exacerbated by the life training of door seal freeze. Where you need to pull extra hard to break the frozen seal. The force multiplication on the hinge will break the hinge.

With a little training, you and your passengers can recognize when the door handle doesn't lift and then open the door from the inside and defrost the actuator.

Watch my videos of how the actuator and DHC function.

3 of 8 of our DHC are zip tie repaired. It's stronger than original and the base bracket is the OE part so of course a perfect fit.

can they not just insert and twist the driver's side door key and hold it CCW, until the windows go down, and then open with the inside handle and grab the door for leverage

why not just apply low temperature grease into the actuator so it doesn't freeze

applying silicon spray lube to the door seal before a frost should keep it from freezing to the door.

[andrewwynn]

Silicone spray helps a ton for seal freeze but that’s a minor problem compared to the actuator freeze.

rolling down the windows is a primary alternative to get in when door handles aren’t working but that quite often won’t work when the actuator is frozen because so will be the windows.

more than once all windows frozen all door handles frozen and I had to climb in the trunk.

Once inside usually can push the door open with my feet but quite often the problem isn’t the door seal so you still can’t open from the outside.

Resist any and all temptation to pull hard on the door handle. If you do break the ice free without breaking the DHC, you will Lilley get the door stick unlatched and you’ll have to hold the door closed while driving.

Train yourself and any passengers to never pull the door handle hard if it seems stuck down. Open the door from the inside (whatever way you can) and then defrost the door actuator ether by driving (usually 30-40 minutes works) or of course heated garage or a hair dryer into the latch mechanism works to Initially in-freeze (say you already got it stuck open).

It will quickly Re-freeze if you use the hair dryer method. A decent length drive has always cured my two x5s.

Now I have about 3/8 of my doors fixed with the actuator anti-freeze.

The problem with trying to just use low temp grease is the metal surfaces that freeze will work to “self clean” the grease off when ice forms (the bit of ice will act like a windshield wiper and scrape off most of the grease).

My solution is to introduce a non stick non metal (key is waaaay different heat capacity and non friction) surface to coat with grease. The point of the grease is not lubricant, it’s that it repels water to reduce the build up of the ice in the first place.

In testing the force to free the frozen actuator drops easily 100x with my fix: watch the videos where I freeze on purpose before and after the fix.


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[aureliusmax]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Silicone spray helps a ton for seal freeze but that’s a minor problem compared to the actuator freeze.

rolling down the windows is a primary alternative to get in when door handles aren’t working but that quite often won’t work when the actuator is frozen because so will be the windows.

The key cylinder


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when you talk of the actuator, you're meaning the solenoid linear actuator that disengages the door lock ?

why do the windows become frozen, what if the window channels have fresh silicon lube ?

and why not if they key cylinder is frozen just spray some brake clean, acetone's freeze point is 95 degrees less than water.

[amancuso]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I originally thought that was the case but it's really not. The primary reason for breakage is when the actuator freezes and the user pulls on the handle forecably.

The problem is exacerbated by the life training of door seal freeze. Where you need to pull extra hard to break the frozen seal. The force multiplication on the hinge will break the hinge.

With a little training, you and your passengers can recognize when the door handle doesn't lift and then open the door from the inside and defrost the actuator.

Watch my videos of how the actuator and DHC function.

3 of 8 of our DHC are zip tie repaired. It's stronger than original and the base bracket is the OE part so of course a perfect fit.

Where are your videos?