Has anybody tried other brand than OEM for replacing door handle.

[andrewwynn]

I've done this repair about 4-5 times. All but one the break was the hinge the other the hook that the handle pulls on snapped off. Either are caused by the design flaw and can be eliminated by cutting off the nub that blocks the handle motion when locked.

Cut the spring flush with the inside if it sticks out! The window is within 2mm of the flat side of the handle carrier!


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[80stech]

The problem with mine was that the cable had stretched and worn, so I replaced the carrier before it broke. The inner cable on the Febi one looks slightly coarser than the original which in this case might be a good thing. I was tempted to just replace the cable but the actuating lever mechanism also had a fair bit of wear and I already had the new carrier anyway.

[andrewwynn]

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...hlight=Awr-fix

This post i show exactly the cause of our grief and how to saw it off to permanently eliminate the problem.

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I would never install a carrier without making this modification and I would apply this fix to any door that is opened for any other repair.

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[80stech]

@ andrewwynn That wasn't the problem with mine but I just had a look at my new original BMW carrier that I haven't installed yet. It was cold from being out in the garage and the grease in that lock out mechanism that you are referring to was stiff enough that the little spring wouldn't swing it to release the handle. What actuates the portion that looks like a counterweight when the door is locked??

[andrewwynn]

The actuator must interact with the lever that looks like a counterweight. Almost always that spring can't push through the thick lubricant and it stays in the lock position. I've not seen a single failure not caused by that problem. I've seen at least 20-25 cases 100% from that part sticking locked

You just described the same problem I did earlier.

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[80stech]

That is interesting but only the carrier that I haven't installed yet seems to have that problem. Both my front doors have/had stretched cables and haven't broke a carrier yet. After looking at the carrier again, after it has warmed up, it is still sticking! The plastic bushing may be fit a little too tight but that should be an easy fix. If your worry is about about the lockout why not just remove the swinging part instead of cutting the locking tab? I am definetly going to pay attention to exactly what swings the latch into place when I replace the other side.

[ix&x5]

My original carrier lasted 120k then I bought a URO brand and it lasted 4 months but the warranty from the ebay company was 90 days. I then bought a Febi from Bavarian and it lasted 3 1/2 years , warranty 2 years and it broke at the weak spot on the shaft. Guess where I ordered the new one? FCP with the life time warranty! With the carrier problems and the window plastic clips failing I've had the door panel off a total of 12 times.

[andrewwynn]

Modify with my fix it will never break again. The problem is a design flaw that will guarantee an eventual break. I'm addition, the plastic clips on the regulator break because the window binds on the side rails, lubricate them occasionally and they won't break either.

When I used dry Teflon on my 17 yr old window it sped up 60% and matches the speed of all the windows now.

I have never seen a "stretched cable" in 40 years of working on every type of everything it's a myth. That said, metal parts that hold the cable end can bend. My 16 yr old cables were much better than the new ones that came off the knock of.

I was going to remove the whole part but the car may use a sensor to detect that part to confirm the door is locked. Since I don't know I left the part.

What's the point of lifetime warranty on a part designed exactly like the defective original. Keep the number at a dozen.


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[ix&x5]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Modify with my fix it will never break again. The problem is a design flaw that will guarantee an eventual break. I'm addition, the plastic clips on the regulator break because the window binds on the side rails, lubricate them occasionally and they won't break either.

When I used dry Teflon on my 17 yr old window it sped up 60% and matches the speed of all the windows now.

I have never seen a "stretched cable" in 40 years of working on every type of everything it's a myth. That said, metal parts that hold the cable end can bend. My 16 yr old cables were much better than the new ones that came off the knock of.

I was going to remove the whole part but the car may use a sensor to detect that part to confirm the door is locked. Since I don't know I left the part.

What's the point of lifetime warranty on a part designed exactly like the defective original. Keep the number at a dozen.


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I will try the mod. It looks like you put a zip tie on the weak part of the shaft. Why do you cut off the end of the spring? Thanks

[andrewwynn]

The spring stuck out too far and scratched the glass!



I could hear scratching on the glass after the new carrier was installed.

I put tape on both sides to find the scratch. See the tear toward the right side. Lines up with the spring of course because that was the cause.

The little NUB causes at least 90% of the carrier failures. Cut that nub and I breaks, I'll send you a fixed carrier for free. It's impossibly low odds, I will be very surprised if anybody can ever take advantage of that offer.

When the nub is removed the handle no longer locks and will dry fire so no longer binds in a way to cause failure