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  #11  
Old 03-13-2018, 10:14 PM
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Got all my parts installed and fired her up tonight and what a difference, vibrations are gone... idle is smoother than it was before. Usually when I start her and switch to R or D, vibrations around the cabin is very pronounced, not tonight.. I haven't driven her completely because I have issues with the lug bolts, I noticed that both my impact and regular 21mm sockets get stuck when tightening. Such a PITA to remove the stuck socket. Was wondering if the bolt is not actually 21mm or there's a special thin walled socket I need to use..




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  #12  
Old 03-13-2018, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lincolnshibuya View Post
I just replaced both of the mounts this weekend, it's not that bad compared to my e46 but I did run into some issues why I decided to take the axle shaft out.
What mounts did you choose? Lemforder, Conteco, Rein, etc...
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2018, 12:17 AM
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When I did my E39 5-series, I used Corteco, which is OEM.

Write-up for E39 5-series is below...

DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement
DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2018, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
When I did my E39 5-series, I used Corteco, which is OEM.

Write-up for E39 5-series is below...

DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement
DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
Thanks cn90. On the E46, 2WD guys prefer the Lemforder while the Xi guys swear the Conteco is the best.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2018, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
What mounts did you choose? Lemforder, Conteco, Rein, etc...
I tried the Rein this time, I used Corteco on my e46. I purchased it from fcpeuro so if it fails early it's going to be fairly easy to replace it and they offer lifetime replacement warranty..

The Rein mounts are softer compared to Corteco (maybe too subjective as I recall)




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  #16  
Old 03-14-2018, 10:25 PM
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got great weather to finally install and inspect everything today. ABS sensor that I forgot to install back to the spindle installed, lug bolts torqued using the correct 19mm socket, splash shield installed and fired her up and test drove around.. the mount replacement was a success and worth it, the roughness I felt before and the vibrations at idle/stop are all gone..

One thing I need to mention is that I have a hard time putting back in the cv axle back to the hub, it's a tight fit and I have to pound it with a block of wood and hammer to seat the hub..it's going to be interesting pushing the axle back out next time..


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  #17  
Old 07-08-2019, 09:52 AM
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Just replaced the engine mounts on 2003 325i E46 2.5L with 100K miles.

I misdiagnosed it, the OFH gasket leak allowed oil to track down the L engine bracket, trickling down onto the L engine mount. I thought the engine mount leaked oil! Anyway, once the mounts are out, they are just a bit (about 5 mm) shorter than new Corteco mounts.

At 100K, no issues yet...I think it helped that the previous owners were old people and did not floor the throttle LOL...

Anyway, I ended up with new engine mounts, it does not hurt!


Couple points on M54 engines:

- Having done many engine mounts, if you have no vibration or engine lifting (fan blades hitting fan shroud), then I guess you can keep watching it until you hit 150K or so. At 100K, most engine mounts are probably still OK.

- Brand: this is a tough job b/c you have to be slow and methodical. So use only Corteco, which is identical to factory, about $45/each.

TOOLS:

- An iron pipe used with ratchet is a life-saver. Get a 1.5-foot section of iron pipe (the 3/4" type) and slide it over the ratchet for extra leverage.

- Extensions 3", 6" for the bracket 13-mm bolts and a very looong extension for the 16-mm nuts.

- Universal joint (3/8" or 1/2") is a must!



- Tips: just read the link posted above for my 1998 528i.

1. In the link posted, since the 1998 528i is a manual trans, oil cooler lines were not there. In E46 cars, the Steering Rack hoses are in the front, the cooler lines are right underneath the front of engine. So get some rubber and thin pieces of wood (such as oak flooring etc.) and somehow support the front of the engine w/o pinching the cooler hoses. Of course you can buy the Harbor Freight engine support ($75 or so), but I don't do this for a living and don't want another piece of junk sitting in my garage for the next 10 yrs.

2. I used 2 jacks as above (under front of engine, directly behind crank pulley (NOT on crank pulley). The second jack is under the REAR part of the oil pan VERTICAL part, right in front of the oil level sensor.

3. Loosen the 16-mm nuts but do NOT remove them yet.

4. As above support the engine and snug it up a bit evenly so it raises about 1/2-1" and stop.

5. The R side is easy, once the 4 bolts (13-mm) are removed, the bracket slides right out and new mount goes in. Re-attach the four (4) 13-mm bolts on the bracket and loosely attach the 16-mm bolts on the R mount. Do NOT tighten them yet.

6. The L side is a bit of a struggle simply b/c the top aft bolt is hard to see.
So, remove the three (3) 13-mm bolts: front x2, and lower aft bolt. The top bolt (upper aft bolt): loosen it a few turns but do NOT remove it simply b/c re-installing it could be a nightmare! This allows the L bracket to swivel out of the way to allow the new mount in.

7. Pay attentions to the bottom notch and orientation. Tons of videos for that. Basically the bottom notch goes to the front.

8. The R side heat shield for the E46: you can install it in 2 separate ways (2 notches on top of the mount), get to the top and you will see there is only one correct way to install the heat shield to shield the engine mount from the heat.

9. Once both mounts are in, tighten the bracket bolts (4 on each side).
Do NOT tighten the engine mount 16-mm nuts yet! Doing so with engine still raised 1" will destroy new engine mounts!!!

Look up the torque values, but I found these on the internet:
- The four 13-mm bolts: 18 ft*lb.
- The two 16-mm nuts: 33 ft*lb.

Fitting torque wrench into the tight spots is difficult, so I did it "by feel".
Again, the "iron pipe over ratchet" trick helped...

10. Once the bracket bolts (13-mm) are tightened on both sides (8 bolts total), SLOWLY lower engine. Since I used 2 jacks, I lower it bit by bit and remove the floor jacks.

11. Now the engine sits on the mounts. Tighten the BOTTOM 16-mm nuts first to seat the mount to the subframe. Then tighten the TOP 16-mm nuts.

12. Double check to be sure all tools are removed and all bolts are tightened properly.

So, it is all about being slow and methodical...


---
PS: Anyway, want to see a really bad E46 engine mount, see the video below!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtHem8KpFOw


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Last edited by cn90; 07-08-2019 at 12:19 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2019, 12:17 PM
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I just did mine.. Have you not researched? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4XysqHoH08&t=6s
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  #19  
Old 07-08-2019, 12:23 PM
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Yes,

This was exactly the idea behind "Removing bracket approach".
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  #20  
Old 07-08-2019, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trentcdrums View Post
I just did mine.. Have you not researched? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4XysqHoH08&t=6s
Nice vid. Gave it a .

Not looking forward to doing this on the N62. Will probably pick up the HF top engine support bar when I have to do it.
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